Help me put together a good 350 combo for 375-400 hp.

[Cole Trickle]

Afternoon,

After the first of the year I will be tearing into yeller and adding some power.

Let me give you the current specs to the best of my knowledge.

Crate Motor (350 and fairly fresh/Not sure if 2 or 4 bolt main?)
Edelbrock Performer Intake
1406 Carb
HEI
Stock manifolds
Iron heads
true dual glass packs (I would say 2")

Truck has a sm465 tranny

The motor currently makes 200hp 300tq (must be a RV cam?) at the wheels (dynojet)

My goals are 300-350hp to the wheels on the same dyno

Here are the guarantees that I have ready to go on the truck the rest of the power will have to be made with a heads/cam package

I will be doing LT headers with a full 2.5" magnaflow header back system. I will also be installing electric fans.( I imagine I can get 30+ hp to the wheels with this combo alone)

What would you reccomend for a semi budget based Aluminum head and cam that will help me achieve my goals on 91 octane gas and not have to spin above say 5800rpm?

Thanks

Brandin

[Marv D]

I personally think you need to forget the thought of a "semi budget based aluminum head" Heads are where the power is made, and heads represent a major part of any builds budget. Why buy something that is 'maxed out' to start with. Get a head that flows in the 280cfm range and you'll be plenty capable of stepping up later as the faster faster faster bug bites. I'm partial to the AFR line and a 195 or 210 head would work well here up to stroking this to a 383 IMO. 210 only if your like the rest of us and have that addictive personality and expect to want more and more later, a 195 if you think 500P will be enough for somewhere off in the future.

I'm just saying don't scrimp and cut your own throat buying a head that won't grow with you. There expensive, buy the RIGHT one the first time.

[Cole Trickle]

Originally Posted by Marv D

I personally think you need to forget the thought of a "semi budget based aluminum head" Heads are where the power is made, and heads represent a major part of any builds budget. Why buy something that is 'maxed out' to start with. Get a head that flows in the 280cfm range and you'll be plenty capable of stepping up later as the faster faster faster bug bites. I'm partial to the AFR line and a 195 or 210 head would work well here up to stroking this to a 383 IMO. 210 only if your like the rest of us and have that addictive personality and expect to want more and more later, a 195 if you think 500P will be enough for somewhere off in the future.

I'm just saying don't scrimp and cut your own throat buying a head that won't grow with you. There expensive, buy the RIGHT one the first time.

I agree I would love some AFR's....But

I have owned several high hp cars and have driven them all down the track (heads/Cam 00 SS Camaro,Nitrous 5.0 Notch,04 Blown Vette, 06 GTO,etc...)

My 69 will never hit the track for several reasons....there isn't really that many tracks left in So Cal and the SM465 will never be a good tranny for racing.

I am building her as a cruiser hot rod weekend toy. I want her to be dead nuts reliable and fun to drive. I also need to keep the budget under control as I'm a firm believer of not investing 7K in engine work on a truck that I only have 10K into.

I will be more than happy with 330rwhp. My next go around I will be swapping out the 3:08's for gears and a posi. Basically I want something that will pull ok on the freeway and leave a lighht with a little tire smoke if need be.

Lets say my budget is less than 2K for heads and cam?

What would work with my current intake/carb and make the most power?

[Marv D]

It will be tight for that budget, but ... for strictly street, and not needing top end.....
I'd do the Edelbrock 170cc E-tec heads (I believe the are $1200),
a Vortec airgap intake is roughly $375

Then to do it right, a hydraulic roller in the .. ohhh roughly 235@ 0.050 range assuming your building 9.5 to 10.2:1 comression, an dput lift at .58ish. 1-5/8" long tube headers

that will probably be a deal breaker with cam / good hydraulic roller lifters / pushrods / springs and a good roller rocker being around $1100

I'm always saying HEADS is where the power is made. But, the cam is the brains of how you use those heads. I won't build a flat tapper motor, not with todays oils and the performance benefits of a roller (solid or hydraulic).

But,, that's just my 2¢

[Cole Trickle]

Originally Posted by Marv D

It will be tight for that budget, but ... for strictly street, and not needing top end.....
I'd do the Edelbrock 170cc E-tec heads (I believe the are $1200),
a Vortec airgap intake is roughly $375

Then to do it right, a hydraulic roller in the .. ohhh roughly 235@ 0.050 range assuming your building 9.5 to 10.2:1 comression, an dput lift at .58ish. 1-5/8" long tube headers

that will probably be a deal breaker with cam / good hydraulic roller lifters / pushrods / springs and a good roller rocker being around $1100

I'm always saying HEADS is where the power is made. But, the cam is the brains of how you use those heads. I won't build a flat tapper motor, not with todays oils and the performance benefits of a roller (solid or hydraulic).

But,, that's just my 2¢

Good info....and close to my budget

Long tunes are a guarantee and I might be able to get a bro deal on the heads. What kind of power do you think I could make with that combo?

[68 C-10 KID]

Originally Posted by Marv D

It will be tight for that budget, but ... for strictly street, and not needing top end.....
I'd do the Edelbrock 170cc E-tec heads (I believe the are $1200),
a Vortec airgap intake is roughly $375

Then to do it right, a hydraulic roller in the .. ohhh roughly 235@ 0.050 range assuming your building 9.5 to 10.2:1 comression, an dput lift at .58ish. 1-5/8" long tube headers

that will probably be a deal breaker with cam / good hydraulic roller lifters / pushrods / springs and a good roller rocker being around $1100

I'm always saying HEADS is where the power is made. But, the cam is the brains of how you use those heads. I won't build a flat tapper motor, not with todays oils and the performance benefits of a roller (solid or hydraulic).

But,, that's just my 2¢

I agree w/ marv. A few years ago I also dynoed a 355 that was in my truck that put down the 338 hp mark with a real similar set up as above.
Canfield 195's 1.6 1.7 roller rockers
hyd roller cam with around a low .500's
forged piston
Brodix HV 1016 dual plane
750 Holley.
th350 3000 Hughes stall w/3:73
electric fan
serpentine pulleys
power stearing
Truck ran 13.70's all day.

Power is in the heads!

[rblcori7]

Hey marv what do you think about edelbrock's performer rpm heads

[Marv D]

You can always claim 400HP.. EVERYONE these days has / wants 400HP, so call it that.

Then you take this 400 HP motor, run it on every day gas, with normal underhood operating temps, with normal accessories like alternator, water pump, power steering, losses through a cheep converter, and the input shaft of the trans really sees 325 or 350 at best.

Here's a sbc 400 with those very 170cc Edelbrock E-tec heads, a RPM Vortec airgap intake, Comp 284XE cam, Prosystems 780 carb, TH350 trans and 4.10 gears and 8.5" slicks. ET / weight said it made close to 500

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/dana1.JPG

rbl,, I ran a set of the 6071 RPM heads on a 350 long ago. Stuffed a bunch of nitrous through them,, there a solid piece. There a very nice street head. Edelbrock concentrates on port volocity and doesn't advertise a bunch of bogus inflated flow numbers. Partly because their flow numbers are not very impressive. And to build torque, in a streetable combination, big huge flow numbers arent what you want anyways. The RPM head has great mid lift flow and port volocity,, very capable of 1HP per cube in the typical 'as installed' combination at streetable rpm's (meaning WITH water pump, alternator, PS pump, typical underhood temps, windage, etc. etc. etc.)

[rblcori7]

Originally Posted by Marv D

You can always claim 400HP.. EVERYONE these days has / wants 400HP, so call it that.

Then you take this 400 HP motor, run it on every day gas, with normal underhood operating temps, with normal accessories like alternator, water pump, power steering, losses through a cheep converter, and the input shaft of the trans really sees 325 or 350 at best.

Here's a sbc 400 with those very 170cc Edelbrock E-tec heads, a RPM Vortec airgap intake, Comp 284XE cam, Prosystems 780 carb, TH350 trans and 4.10 gears and 8.5" slicks. ET / weight said it made close to 500

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/dana1.JPG

rbl,, I ran a set of the 6071 RPM heads on a 350 long ago. Stuffed a bunch of nitrous through them,, there a solid piece. There a very nice street head. Edelbrock concentrates on port volocity and doesn't advertise a bunch of bogus inflated flow numbers. Partly because their flow numbers are not very impressive. And to build torque, in a streetable combination, big huge flow numbers arent what you want anyways. The RPM head has great mid lift flow and port volocity,, very capable of 1HP per cube in the typical 'as installed' combination at streetable rpm's (meaning WITH water pump, alternator, PS pump, typical underhood temps, windage, etc. etc. etc.)

Ok man so would you recomend them for a 4x4 project im only tryign to get a 350hp engine for daily driving and every once in a while playing in the mud... if this helps im planning on runing this comp cam kit......

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K12-210-2/

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Hp is cool to talk about but TQ is where it is at.. or both but that always cost more.. Any one try the summit aluminum head yet?? Looks decent I run CNC ported RHS on my little 383. Making one per cube is not hard at all. There are tons of builds that will net this on a budget. Car craft or hot rod magazine had a build where they bolted on the air gap intake, a comp cam and the summit heads with a 600 or 650 carb, HEI ign headers and that little motor was in the high 370 range but hp numbers aside the tq curve was killer from down low to 5800 rpm range. Looked to be a very fun driver engine.

[hotrodhomi]

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...50PC1&SM=1&SC=
You can't beat 400+ hp 400+ ftlbs for 3200 shipped to your house.
They come dyno'd. Mine had 407hp and 443ftlbs

[Cole Trickle]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...50PC1&SM=1&SC=
You can't beat 400+ hp 400+ ftlbs for 3200 shipped to your house.
They come dyno'd. Mine had 407hp and 443ftlbs

Thats a good deal for a done up 400hp motor.

I'm not looking to swap out my perfectly good motor for new but I would be happy with about 20 more hp that what your rolling with.

What intake,carb and cam are on the motor? Looks like worked vortec iron heads?

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by Cole Trickle

Thats a good deal for a done up 400hp motor.

I'm not looking to swap out my perfectly good motor for new but I would be happy with about 20 more hp that what your rolling with.

What intake,carb and cam are on the motor? Looks like worked vortec iron heads?

Dyno'd with edelbrock intake and Holley 750 carb. You are correct on the heads.

[Cole Trickle]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

Dyno'd with edelbrock intake and Holley 750 carb. You are correct on the heads.

hows it run?

Any actuall rwhp dyno numbers after the install?

[hotrodhomi]

New baby is days away, haven't had time to install. Looks good in the garage though

[Cole Trickle]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

New baby is days away, haven't had time to install. Looks good in the garage though

congrats....

Its an amazing life changing event....1st,2nd 3rd?

I have 1 of those that will be 2 in Febuary.

I will give you $1500 for the motor and come pick it up. There is no way your going to have a chance to install that baybe with a new born

[rblcori7]

Originally Posted by Cole Trickle

I will give you $1500 for the motor and come pick it up. There is no way your going to have a chance to install that baybe with a new born

ha ha ha

[hotrodhomi]

the offer made me laugh.

it's our first.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

marv I swear i have seen your truck before... cant figure out where though??

[CC69Rat]

What heads are on your motor now? Is an aluminum swap absolutely necessary to pull 350hp out of it? I'm thinking no. .. (??) If you have some good heads on it now, you could always work those .. prob 76cc on the crate motor now? Sounds like the 350/260hp version. Or even pick up some good 041s for $100 bucks or so and rebuild. You'll still have the holes for accesories, still run the same bottom end and bump up the copression a little to keep it on pump gas, trans upgrades wouldn't be mandatory but a small stall might help, .. etc.

A good set of 64cc iron heads, roller tip rockers, maybe change to an RPM intake and cam kit? Headers, Magnaflows with X-pipe, you'll be in the 350hp range easily and $2k budget, no problem. ..

But the guys are right .. do you see the need for 500hp in the near future? If so, go with the aluminum heads. If not, I'd stay iron headded. Just my opinion.