one wire alternator??

[54Caddy]

what is exactly the difference doing some research to buy a high amp one but the one wire alterantors keep coming up just want to know what is the difference and what does it take to convert to one?? thanks

[Mike Bradbury]

A one wire alternator is internaly regulated vs. having a voltage regulator on the fenderwell. It does it all inside. You can get high amp alternators that are one wire, you just need to figure out what amp draw you have. Do you have a lot of components that draw off the battery?

[MylilBowTie]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

[allengator]

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

This is a great article...

There is a reason why NO oem alternators are one-wire.

They may be easy to install, but the lack of remote votage sensing can make a big difference in your electrical system performance.

If I was building a a little '34 roadster without a bunch of accessories, I might consider a "one wire" just for the clean appearance.

But for anything else... stick with the three wire!

[78 Chevyrado]

I've got this one in my truck. Had it for 8 or 9 months and no problems whatever. Also has the best Price for the Amperage.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4516-h...amp-65-85.aspx

If you're wiring is still good, just get a 3 wire alternator. The only advantage a one wire has over a 3 wire, is there are less wires.

If you do get bigger than about 90A though, You'll have to get a larger charging wire.

[54Caddy]

Originally Posted by 78 Chevyrado

I've got this one in my truck. Had it for 8 or 9 months and no problems whatever. Also has the best Price for the Amperage.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4516-h...amp-65-85.aspx

If you're wiring is still good, just get a 3 wire alternator. The only advantage a one wire has over a 3 wire, is there are less wires.

If you do get bigger than about 90A though, You'll have to get a larger charging wire.

thanks for the link much cheaper than summit racing and a lot more amprage. Did you upgrade your wiring have any pictures on how you did so. If im correct i believe the charge wire is the one that i lugged to the alternator alone without the two in the conector and it runs down to the starter correct

[54Caddy]

well rite now i dont have much draw off if it but in the near future i will also considering running a second battery. I was thinking of running about a 120 alternator to keep good charge and running two yellow top optimas.

[78 Chevyrado]

I'll admit right now, this isn't the ideal setup, but it will work until I get to digging out the stock charging wires and replacing them with bigger wires and fusible links. I will do the pain in the butt wiring when the engine is out for a rebuild. I'm just being lazy. lol

I just ran the main charge wire (4ga.) from the alt to the battery +. It has a fuse, (I forget exactly what size) around 140A or 150A or so. Otherwise I just hooked it back up like it was.





I had some extra short lengths of wire left so I also put some upgraded ground straps in. They are 4ga also. All my stock grounds were real good, but I did note both of those new ground straps showed about 45A each flowing through them when everything was running.



This one is off a pre existing stud at the bottom of the brake booster support


In a lot of the pics it looks like the wires I put in are laying in bad spots or touching metal things directly. They aren't, its just a pic illusion. everything is safe and sound from rubbing.

[54Caddy]

so since that isnt the correct way am i right about where the charge back wire goes?

[AceX]

You can get a 140a unit that will bolt right in and plug in just fine. Mine has been in there for almost 5 years now and does just fine, and I'm drawing WAY mor current than most people. Matching a 140a with a pair of Yellow tops will definitely do the job. My truck was sitting for a couple months, and the Kinetiks were DRAINED, but the alt. got 'em back after about 3 hours, while I beat the piss out of the stereo, ran the lights, heater/defroster, etc. Love my truck...

Personally, I'm looking at upgrading to a 200-250a alternator in the future, but the problem with the larger alternators is that the more power they make at 'freeway speed' doesn't translate into more power at idle, but does require more hp to drive.

A buddy of mine ran twin Stinger 250a units and they required 10hp each and only made (combined) 180a at idle. That might seem like alot, but when your stereo draws ~800a, its quite a deficit.

[allengator]

The charging wire should NOT go to the battery.
If the charging wire is on the battery and the voltage sensing wire is on the junction block, you can overcharge the battery.
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[54Caddy]

thanks matt. I can get a yellow top for 175 and the alternator that 78 chevyrado posted a link of is 138 shipped. Matt on your truck did you upgrade that charge back wire or is it still stock I never noticed when i looked at it. You knowing my setup up i think i should be fine with one yellow top for now and a 140 amp alternator.