89 burb i might purchase- what to look for

[Dave C]

I've been lurking for some time and am now ready to finally make a purchase. I have found this one locally that i plan to look at this evening or tomorrow evening and am a skeptical over anything that has already been dropped. I'm more of a motorcycle guy and am looking to get into something i can enjoy with my son vs a bunch of guys at the race track

a friend will be going with me to take a look but wanted to ask the guys here who seem to know it all when it comes to the burbs. what should i look for when it comes to the suspension? is there anything at all to be concerned about? i intend to bag it so whatever set up this might be i doubt will stay long . any other tips would be appreciated on things to look for with an 89 model. I do not have much info on it other than it runs and drives. will know more when i see it



thanks in advance for any input and look forward to becoming more active on the board now that i'll have a ride of my own (it might not be this one, but it'll be an old burban for sure

[DBLSPRT68]

Dave, not sure if I can help. I picked up an 89 last year. It's a 454 2500 model though. I love the way it rides, and mine will pull great. Anyway, this one is probably a 350TBI. Make sure it idles well and has not fault lights. This model had the double din radio also, the clock was in the radio. I could have the third row seats, or not. Check for rust, door alignment, re-paint, pulling while driving and braking just like any other used car test drive. Sorry I can't help more. Mine is just totally different (engine,tranny,suspension,brakes) than this one. David

[RandyP]

As with any of these trucks, be sure you actually crawl underneath it and check the floor pans for rust through. Rockers are easy to check, and are usually not that big of an issue with a late 80's like this. But be sure to check the bottoms of the doors, open them up and look underneath them, they are notorious for rotting out under there, even on the rear cargo doors. Check around the quarter windows real close for signs of rust, same on the rear cargo door windows (if it has barn doors). If it has a tailgate on the back, check the top edge of the gate where the belt weatherstrip is for any cracking of the metal. Also be sure to check around the battery area under the hood, they rust pretty bad below the battery tray.

Otherwise, all you can do yourself is test drive it and make sure everything works the way it should for a truck that is 22 years old. I always take a little hand held worklight that has a magnetic base on it with me when I look at a used vehicle. You can use the flash light to check in dark areas (backside of valve covers and under the battery tray etc) and use the magnet on any areas you think might be full of repair material (I won't use the word bondo even though it is the most well known word for it) which would cause you to really inspect a certain area hard.

I always start the vehicle as soon as I get there to look, and let it run and idle while I inspect the rest of it. This gives it a few minutes to heat up and start smoking if there is any oil drips up top and gives you a warm test drive. Push every button, work every switch and open everything with a handle. Then start haggling!

[Mr. 250r]

i would check for rust at the back of the cab where the doors open thats a problem spot along with rockers and stuff like basically every old chevy

[Dave C]

thanks for the tips. I'll be paying close attention and looking. Looks like today at 5 we'll be checking it out which means the day is going to drag andn go realllly slow

[Dave C]

well the guy isnt responding to my texts when i had a couple of questions. also felt strange about that deal. instead i'll be looking at this beast and the seller is more than eager to talk about the history. 4:00pm come on with it. I like the idea of it being stock so it's something i can morph vs it already being changed up

[motornut]

up here i would check over the rear wheels the rear quarters
the rear speakers i've found will be screwed if the rear wells are leaking