c10 front suspension - what differences between 73-87?

[blackmopar]

Hey Guys
Im usually in the 60-66 forum but looking to swap front ends from your era for a stop, drop, and roll upgrade. Theres a crap load of info in our section but its got my head swimmin so I thought Id come straight to source - please point me elsewhere if its already been covered

besides 1.00 and 1.25 rotors, is there ANY differences/improvements, or things to steer clear of between 73 and 87 c10 front ends? Did all (or any) of these years come with front sway bar?

I am either trying to find a parts truck on CL or headin to pick-a-part and want to know if there is a particular year to hunt for or shy away from

one last - these 2wd c10 are referred to as Silverados, right? Cheyenne is c20/ 3/4, right?

Thanks!

[slammed427]

Not all 2wd's are silverado's, its different trim packages radio, heat, ac, etc. What exactly are you looking to swap over? The spindles will slide into your stock ball joints if yer runnin a 63+, that will give you disc brakes etc.

When I worked for Checker, I checked about the 1.00" and 1.25" rotors and it was the same part number, I wouldn't worry too much there, I've swapped back and forth in the past without any issue.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by slammed427

Not all 2wd's are silverado's, its different trim packages radio, heat, ac, etc. What exactly are you looking to swap over? The spindles will slide into your stock ball joints if yer runnin a 63+, that will give you disc brakes etc.

When I worked for Checker, I checked about the 1.00" and 1.25" rotors and it was the same part number, I wouldn't worry too much there, I've swapped back and forth in the past without any issue.

There is a bunch of incorrect information in your post.
The 63-70 balljoints are different than the 73-87 ball joints.
The tie rods are also different.

As far as the 1" vs 1.25" wide rotors,... They are completely different.
Different bearings.
Different calipers.
Different rotors.
Different spindles.

Please check your info before posting.

[lolife99]

C10= 1/2 ton
C20= 3/4 ton
C30= 1 ton

Custom Deluxe, Scottsdale, Cheyenne, and Silverado are are "trim packages". (options)

When you are looking for parts,... try to get it all.
Steering linkage and M/C, prop.valve, and booster.

[lolife99]

blackmopar,... you might want to look at this "sticky" from the 60-66 Meassage Board area.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=443871

[blackmopar]

lolife - thanks - yea I did check out your sticky on the 60-66 forum - i think I get the interchangeable and not interchaegeable stuff but my plan is to try to get a complete parts truck from 73-87 era - so i can do a complete resto and rebuild on the cross member on the bench so to speak.

So my basic question here is which one? do they all have sway bars? something I need. which years have the 1.25 rotors? My basic thought is an 87 front end should be in better shape than a 73 from a wear perspective - but Im figuring any year i get Ill need to replace bushings, bearings, etc so does year even matter?

i also figure a compelte truck donor is to my bennie to get m/c, lines, vlavles, and so on......


Mines a 64 c10 lwb by the way

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

lolife - thanks - yea I did check out your sticky on the 60-66 forum - i think I get the interchangeable and not interchaegeable stuff but my plan is to try to get a complete parts truck from 73-87 era - so i can do a complete resto and rebuild on the cross member on the bench so to speak.

So my basic question here is which one?
Do they all have sway bars?
Some do some don't. They are not a big deal too add. The plain trucks or cheaper 6-cylinder trucks probably didn't have them.


Something I need. which years have the 1.25 rotors?
71-80 had them.
Some 81-87 trucks also had them.
Some 81-87 trucks had the Light Duty 1" rotors.
No rhyme or reason after 1981.

My basic thought is an 87 front end should be in better shape than a 73 from a wear perspective - but Im figuring any year i get Ill need to replace bushings, bearings, etc so does year even matter?
Typically the 73-87 replacemnet parts are cheaper. That's about it in my opinion.

i also figure a compelte truck donor is to my bennie to get m/c, lines, vlavles, and so on......
Correct!

Mines a 64 c10 lwb by the way

Depending on how good of donor truck you find,... will depend on what you replace.
I get using the donor parts,... like steel brake lines, prop valve, spindles, dust shields, and steering linkage.

How much of the other used stuff do you want to use?
Are you just slapping on disc brakes?
Or are you rebuilding the front end?
Ball joints?
Tie Rod ends?
Calipers?
Rotors?
Are you adding drop spindles?
If so,... (in my opinion) there are very few donor parts to re-use.
I would buy all new wear items. (including rubber brake hoses)

Since the aftermarket came out with "year specific" drop spindles(63-70 in your case),... there is no need to use the later 73-87 stuff.
These are a bolt-on spindle.

[blackmopar]

yea the main goal is to drop the b1tch, If they had a drop spindle that accepted drums I might consider just that, but my entire front end also needs a rebuild now, so what i read is moving to the 73-87 gets me better design bushings, etc. and since I need master cyl, lines, and all the lil crap anyways a donor seems liek it would be a good choice, would really be lucky if I found a 73-87 that already got dropped too , but My main issue is i dont want to get a donor and wind up in the auto parts or aftermarket for everything anyway

[joe1982]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

Hey Guys
Im usually in the 60-66 forum but looking to swap front ends from your era for a stop, drop, and roll upgrade. Theres a crap load of info in our section but its got my head swimmin so I thought Id come straight to source - please point me elsewhere if its already been covered

besides 1.00 and 1.25 rotors, is there ANY differences/improvements, or things to steer clear of between 73 and 87 c10 front ends? Did all (or any) of these years come with front sway bar?

I am either trying to find a parts truck on CL or headin to pick-a-part and want to know if there is a particular year to hunt for or shy away from

one last - these 2wd c10 are referred to as Silverados, right? Cheyenne is c20/ 3/4, right?

Thanks!

whats up man, are you going to the ecology in oceanside? im litterally going in like 30 min, if i see a solid parts truck ill send you a pm.

[blackmopar]

Originally Posted by joe1982

whats up man, are you going to the ecology in oceanside? im litterally going in like 30 min, if i see a solid parts truck ill send you a pm.

Joe,
yea thatd be great - I useually try to start with gallant or San Luis Rey - they all want a grip a $$ for everything I need though

[joe1982]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

Joe,
yea thatd be great - I useually try to start with gallant or San Luis Rey - they all want a grip a $$ for everything I need though

Yeah gallant chargers way too much man. i know ecology has a few solid c10's right now, ill shoot you a PM.

[blackmopar]

perfect - thanks a bunch!

[lilpoindexter]

Get a sway bar off a big ass 8 lug suburban...i got a 1.25" bar for my c10 that had no sway bar from the factory...I'd get a parts truck off craigslist...strip the good stuff, then put your old crossmember on it so it could roll, and call pick your part to come get the carcass

[Tx Firefighter]

Here's what I learned when doing my 63 truck with a donor.

In my experience, Suburbans are the best donors. I have never seen an 81-91 Suburban that did not have the bigger rotors and a sway bar. There might be some out there but I looked pretty deep and never found one equipped otherwise. Plus Suburbans seem to lead easier lives than pickups do so your chances are better of the parts being in better shape.

Look through my blog a bit. You might have to go back a few pages, but I built a 63 truck and used the entire 73-87 brake and suspension system. The master cylinder bolted directly to the firewall without mods. The brake lines all worked without mods. The proportioning valve laid right on the frame and just required me to drill two holes for the mounting bolts. I used 73-87 brake hoses front and rear. Seriously, other than drilling the two 5/16 holes for the prop mount bolts, it was bolt in. Even the holes for the later model front brake hoses were already in the frame.

Again, check my blog back a bit for details and if you have any questions just ask. My photobucket account has thousands of pictures so I probably have one that would clear up any questions.

And, that slammed427 guy is flat wrong on just about all he wrote. Disregard that stuff.

[Frankwhoa]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Here's what I learned when doing my 63 truck with a donor.

In my experience, Suburbans are the best donors. I have never seen an 81-91 Suburban that did not have the bigger rotors and a sway bar. There might be some out there but I looked pretty deep and never found one equipped otherwise. Plus Suburbans seem to lead easier lives than pickups do so your chances are better of the parts being in better shape.

Look through my blog a bit. You might have to go back a few pages, but I built a 63 truck and used the entire 73-87 brake and suspension system. The master cylinder bolted directly to the firewall without mods. The brake lines all worked without mods. The proportioning valve laid right on the frame and just required me to drill two holes for the mounting bolts. I used 73-87 brake hoses front and rear. Seriously, other than drilling the two 5/16 holes for the prop mount bolts, it was bolt in. Even the holes for the later model front brake hoses were already in the frame.

Again, check my blog back a bit for details and if you have any questions just ask. My photobucket account has thousands of pictures so I probably have one that would clear up any questions.

And, that slammed427 guy is flat wrong on just about all he wrote. Disregard that stuff.

Got a link to that thread?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Frankwhoa

Got a link to that thread?

A quick/easy search of that board members name yielded.....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=373970

[Frankwhoa]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

A quick/easy search of that board members name yielded.....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=373970

Awesome! I tried but couldn't locate that one. Thanks

[joe1982]

so I went to ecology and only found one 1/2 ton with the suspension all together, sorry, i couldnt attatch pics in a pm. here it is.... should be all you need. These are from a 86 suburban... hope this helps.

[blackmopar]

right on - thanks Tex and Joe - any idea what ecology wanted for it all?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

right on - thanks Tex and Joe - any idea what ecology wanted for it all?

Get a quote, the check Craigslist. Like Tx Firefighter said finding a complete donor Burb is a great way to source a LOT of parts and they are usually cheap.

[joe1982]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

right on - thanks Tex and Joe - any idea what ecology wanted for it all?

not sure man, give them a call though, I think they are having a sale this week.

[lolife99]

I scrapped two of those complete crossmember assemblies,... because I couldn't get $50 each for them.

Look around.
They can be found cheap.
Another good source is people selling "pickup bed" trailers.
They always have the front half of the frame laying around or ready to got to scrap.

[blackmopar]

nice idea lolife! yuea n2trux im searching everyday but again, i wanna make sure I get it right.

There is a burb up in Berdoo 87 or 88 I think, for def the right price but it is an 8 lug 454 truck - Arent the burb 8 lugs at least a 3/4 like the pickups? that stuff I need to steer clear of, right? LPDex above mentioned 8 lug - was that JUST for the bar?

[lolife99]

8-lug trucks are 3/4-ton or 1-ton trucks. (burbs too)
They are a great source for the large front swaybars.
Balljoints, lower a-arms and tie rods are different from the 1/2-ton trucks.
(besides the obvious 8-lug spindle/rotor assembly)

Keep looking for 1/2-ton stuff.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by lolife99

8-lug trucks are 3/4-ton or 1-ton trucks. (burbs too)
They are a great source for the large front swaybars....

While we are on that topic, we should discuss the swaybar mounting stands. If they are OEM they will be riveted to the frame. They can be removed and reused, but they are a chore to get off out in the field.

If you are lowering your truck you can use the Early Classic Enterprises (ECE) lowered stands. If your going really low, you can just bolt the bushing clamps directly to the frame.