Serial data wire?

[gopokes]

So I got my wiring harness reworked and sent all of the things I needed wires for to the company up front. When I got the harness back I was happy with the looks, and even hooked it up and started the engine just to make sure I didn't get a lemon. It started and ran fine, but now I am getting ready to do all of the actual wiring, and noticed they didn't put a drop for the serial data line. Or maybe I am just looking at it wrong, because none of them are labeled "serial data". Am I correct in my understanding that the signal for the coolant temp, oil pressure, and voltage comes from the "serial data" wire?

I have the following lines labled, and was thinking one of them might also be the "serial data" wire I'm looking for. Sorry for the long question, and thanks for any help you can give me!

-Brake switch (for torque converter lockup)
-Stop lamp switch
-Malfunction control output
-Goes to tach (puts out 4 cylinder signal)
-Fuel pump relay control
-Vehicle speed sensor output (to speedometer)
-OBDII data port

[usmcchevy]

Serial data goes into your OBDII port where you can read it with a scanner.

[gopokes]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

Serial data goes into your OBDII port where you can read it with a scanner.

I was told by another company that does wire harness mods that that the serial data line is where that info comes from going to the gauges. So does the line that I have labeled "OBDII data port" double as the out for the oil pressure ect?

[usmcchevy]

Ok, now I get what you are trying to do (camaro Gauge cluster). Yes you will have to T off the OBDII data wire to your gauges.

[gopokes]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

Ok, now I get what you are trying to do (camaro Gauge cluster). Yes you will have to T off the OBDII data wire to your gauges.

Sweet, thanks for the help! I have been trying to get into contact with the company that did it for me, but can't get a response. I'm glad I have this place to come get some answers! Thanks again.

[Super73]

I'm not sure that is entirely true.. If I am correct, some of the guages come off the body control module, such as oil pressure. That is why you can not get oil pressure to scan on any data loger like HP tunres. Oil is the only on I can think of off the top of my head.

Here is a full pin out for both Red and Blue connectors. This might help guide you on things that you don't find wired up.

http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/2002pcm.htm

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by Super73

I'm not sure that is entirely true.. If I am correct, some of the guages come off the body control module, such as oil pressure. That is why you can not get oil pressure to scan on any data loger like HP tunres. Oil is the only on I can think of off the top of my head.

Here is a full pin out for both Red and Blue connectors. This might help guide you on things that you don't find wired up.

http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/2002pcm.htm

Very true, I forgot about the BCM.

[gopokes]

Thanks for the help with this guys, when it comes to wiring I am totally lost. Luckily my brother is around to help me out a little bit. We got everything hooked up to the gauges last night and fired her up. The only thing we didn't get a reading for was oil pressure. We were hooking it up directly into the tan wire coming off the oil pressure sending unit, but still got nothing.

Originally Posted by Super73

If I am correct, some of the guages come off the body control module, such as oil pressure. http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/2002pcm.htm

So if this is true, am I going to be able to get oil pressure without having a BCM? Thanks again for the help guys, the diagrams helped a bunch, helped my brother at least.

[ls1nova71]

Are you actually have oil pressure? How long did it run? I've seen alot of no pressure problems on first start up when the oil pick up tube has been replaced/removed. A small pinch in that o ring can cause that. Just a heads up.
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[gopokes]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Are you actually have oil pressure? How long did it run? I've seen alot of no pressure problems on first start up when the oil pick up tube has been replaced/removed. A small pinch in that o ring can cause that. Just a heads up.
Posted via Mobile Device

The gauges did not show any pressure, but I think it is just because of the wiring issues I am having. It only ran for less than a minute or so.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by gopokes

The gauges did not show any pressure, but I think it is just because of the wiring issues I am having. It only ran for less than a minute or so.

Ok, cool. Let's hope.that's all it is, because that's an easy fix. I was just throwing that out there to be aware of it, because I've seen it several times. Don't want to start out by toasting your engine.

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[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by gopokes

So I got my wiring harness reworked and sent all of the things I needed wires for to the company up front. When I got the harness back I was happy with the looks, and even hooked it up and started the engine just to make sure I didn't get a lemon. It started and ran fine, but now I am getting ready to do all of the actual wiring, and noticed they didn't put a drop for the serial data line. Or maybe I am just looking at it wrong, because none of them are labeled "serial data". Am I correct in my understanding that the signal for the coolant temp, oil pressure, and voltage comes from the "serial data" wire?

I have the following lines labled, and was thinking one of them might also be the "serial data" wire I'm looking for. Sorry for the long question, and thanks for any help you can give me!

-Brake switch (for torque converter lockup)
-Stop lamp switch
-Malfunction control output
-Goes to tach (puts out 4 cylinder signal)
-Fuel pump relay control
-Vehicle speed sensor output (to speedometer)
-OBDII data port

Coolant temp, Tach, Fuel level, get their signals from the Serial data line.
Oil pressure signal comes direct from the oil pressure sensor.
Speedo get its signal from the VSS output from the PCM.
The Volt gauge just reads the ignition voltage supplied to the instrument cluster.

In the stock app. the "engine speed signal" out of the PCM goes to the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) NOT to the Tach.

The Body Control Module controls the Anti Theft, Lighting, door locks, etc.

Heres some diagrams.

[imsuchaman55]

I am doing this cluster in my 5.3 swap, but am a little confused on how you got everything to work. I understand the Speedo and tach go from the pcm directly to cluster, and the oil pressure comes from the F body oil press sending unit, but how did you guys get the water temp and voltage? Did the data port have individual wires in it that you were able to splice into? I have been looking at the above diagrams, but all it seems to show is the data port going into the cluster. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[gopokes]

Originally Posted by imsuchaman55

I am doing this cluster in my 5.3 swap, but am a little confused on how you got everything to work. I understand the Speedo and tach go from the pcm directly to cluster, and the oil pressure comes from the F body oil press sending unit, but how did you guys get the water temp and voltage? Did the data port have individual wires in it that you were able to splice into? I have been looking at the above diagrams, but all it seems to show is the data port going into the cluster. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I'm pretty sure they all hook to the data port wire coming from my wiring harness. I can try to check tonight, it's been quite a while since I messed with that stuff.

[imsuchaman55]

sorry to bother you about this again, but when you wired your cluster, were you able to get the odometer screen to illuminate without having your serial data wire connected? I have mine all wired up, but cant get anything for the odometer screen, tach or water temp. I dont know if its a voltage issue or if the cluster wont work without the serial data wire sending a signal. Im so close to having everything working correctly, but everything that runs from this one wire seems to be messing me up.

[gopokes]

Originally Posted by imsuchaman55

sorry to bother you about this again, but when you wired your cluster, were you able to get the odometer screen to illuminate without having your serial data wire connected? I have mine all wired up, but cant get anything for the odometer screen, tach or water temp. I dont know if its a voltage issue or if the cluster wont work without the serial data wire sending a signal. Im so close to having everything working correctly, but everything that runs from this one wire seems to be messing me up.

I did have everything working with the exception of the fuel gauge, haven't even tried that yet. Here is a video of when I had it running.

[imsuchaman55]

The more I look around and read about it, the more I think its a voltage issue. When I turn my key on, the volt meter goes up, but none of the lights on the left side of the cluster light up, and the odometer window doesnt light up. I was getting the power from the fuel gauge feed, and it must not have been enough to power everything. Im going to wire it up direct and see how it works.

For the fuel gauge, we took the internals of the original 68 cluster, removed the needle, and epoxied it into the camaro cluster, then put the camaro needle on. I had to run 3 wires out of the side of the cluster for the fuel gauge. Ground, fuel gauge feed, and signal wire. But it works good and much easier than trying to make the stock fuel gauge work.

[gopokes]

Originally Posted by imsuchaman55

The more I look around and read about it, the more I think its a voltage issue. When I turn my key on, the volt meter goes up, but none of the lights on the left side of the cluster light up, and the odometer window doesnt light up. I was getting the power from the fuel gauge feed, and it must not have been enough to power everything. Im going to wire it up direct and see how it works.

For the fuel gauge, we took the internals of the original 68 cluster, removed the needle, and epoxied it into the camaro cluster, then put the camaro needle on. I had to run 3 wires out of the side of the cluster for the fuel gauge. Ground, fuel gauge feed, and signal wire. But it works good and much easier than trying to make the stock fuel gauge work.

We haven't done the final wiring yet. That was just when we wired it up for a test, so the voltage issue could be your problem. I'm hoping I don't have trouble with the fuel gauge, I'm using the fuel tank and sender from a newer Camaro, so it should wire straight up. Hopefully!

[imsuchaman55]

Is there any way I could get a pic of what wires you spliced into? If it was just the colors that would work, since I have the pinouts with the colors. I would appreciate it
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[gopokes]

Originally Posted by imsuchaman55

Is there any way I could get a pic of what wires you spliced into? If it was just the colors that would work, since I have the pinouts with the colors. I would appreciate it
Posted via Mobile Device

No problem, I should be able to get a pic tonight. Might be a little later though because of valentines day and what not.

[gopokes]

Ok, so I wasn't thinking about the fact that the guy that did my harness didn't just use the factory wires. All of the 12 volt wires coming out are red, switched or not. The OBDII port wire is a solid green wire, that and the oil pressure line are the only two I have hooked up other than the all time 12 volt, keyed 12 volt, and grounds. I have only tried this when I had everything running directly off the battery, not through a fuse block at all. I can take a pic of it and get it too you later, but it seems like this isn't much help to you.

[gopokes]

Found this document on my computer that we used when we were hooking this up, the red font are the only things we used. I think that B9 might be your issue.


Instrument Panel Connector Pins
Pin color use
A1-2-not used
A3---pink------fused ignition feed (Hot on START and RUN)
A4---not used
A5---tan/wht--brake warning indicator lamp input
A6-7-not used
A8---brwn/wht-SES light
A9---not used
A10--orn-------fused battery feed
A11--not used
A12--lt blu------left turn input
A13--ppl/wht---seat belt indicator
A14-16-not used
A17--lt grn------high beam indicator

B1---brn--------park lamp feed
B2---not used
B3---gry--------security indicator input
B4---not used
B5---ppl/wht----fused ignition feed (Hot on START only)
B6---gry--------Class 2 Serial Data ***********
B7---orn/blk-----rear compartment lid ajar indicator
B8---dk grn/wht--vehicle speed signal
B9---gry---------instrument cluster lamp feed
B10--dk blu------right turn indicator input
B11--blk----ground
B12-13--not used
B14--tan---------oil pressure gauge input
B15--blk wht------ground
B16-17- not used

[imsuchaman55]

Originally Posted by gopokes

Found this document on my computer that we used when we were hooking this up, the red font are the only things we used. I think that B9 might be your issue.


Instrument Panel Connector Pins
Pin color use
A1-2-not used
A3---pink------fused ignition feed (Hot on START and RUN)
A4---not used
A5---tan/wht--brake warning indicator lamp input
A6-7-not used
A8---brwn/wht-SES light
A9---not used
A10--orn-------fused battery feed
A11--not used
A12--lt blu------left turn input
A13--ppl/wht---seat belt indicator
A14-16-not used
A17--lt grn------high beam indicator

B1---brn--------park lamp feed
B2---not used
B3---gry--------security indicator input
B4---not used
B5---ppl/wht----fused ignition feed (Hot on START only)
B6---gry--------Class 2 Serial Data ***********
B7---orn/blk-----rear compartment lid ajar indicator
B8---dk grn/wht--vehicle speed signal
B9---gry---------instrument cluster lamp feed
B10--dk blu------right turn indicator input
B11--blk----ground
B12-13--not used
B14--tan---------oil pressure gauge input
B15--blk wht------ground
B16-17- not used

Yes I think that could be the problem too. The pinout I have is a little different than this one. Mine says A13 is the instrument panel lamp control, and I had both B9 and A13 wired together to the dimmer switch, but noticed the seat belt light is always on. Maybe the pinout chart I have is for a different car. Did you connect B9 to 12v or to the dimmer switch?

Thanks for going back and helping me with this, I really appreciate it.