TV cable adjustment damage

[Greywolf200]

I got a rebuilt 700R4 from a performance transmission builder and am having some problems. Reverse is good, first gear is good, 1-2 shift is good, second gear is good, but third gear doesn't pull. The TV cable is adjusted per the instructions on the Bowtie Overdrive site. Push the housing all in, wide open throttle and 3/8 to 1/2 slack at the carb. The builder is trying to say the problem is TV cable adjustment has damaged the tranmission. There has never been a 1-2 problem. What could the problem be and how can I know the builder isn't trying to charge me for waurranty work?

I appreciate any feedback, thanks.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Greywolf200

I got a rebuilt 700R4 from a performance transmission builder and am having some problems. Reverse is good, first gear is good, 1-2 shift is good, second gear is good, but third gear doesn't pull. The TV cable is adjusted per the instructions on the Bowtie Overdrive site. Push the housing all in, wide open throttle and 3/8 to 1/2 slack at the carb. The builder is trying to say the problem is TV cable adjustment has damaged the tranmission. There has never been a 1-2 problem. What could the problem be and how can I know the builder isn't trying to charge me for waurranty work?

I appreciate any feedback, thanks.

Sounds to me like the 3-4 clutches are burnt up. I agree with the builder on a misadjusted TV cable/geometry can do that real quick, BUT its the builder/seller responsibility to tell you that there is no warranty if the TV cable is not adjusted correctly. The ONLY way to verify that is with a pressure gauge BEFORE you drive it. (2-4 lbs preload at idle, & bury the TV plunger at WOT) The #1 & #2 killers of the 700R4s 3-4 clutch pack are low fliud level. #3 is Low line pressure/line pressure rise when shifting into 3rd.

[shortbed70]

I was told to set my tv at wot for it to be tight. And to set it by pump pressure not just the feel of the cable. Sounds like trans is laying down.

[Greywolf200]

I live in Mayberry and the local trans shop isn't exactly B&M. They don't even have a pressure gauge to check the line pressures(I asked on a previous transmission they built for me and was disatisfied with). This is NASCAR country and performance is expensive. I ended up going out of state to get a good deal on a performance tranny. Where could I get a pressure gauge to check the next install when I get this one fixed?

Thanks,

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Greywolf200

I live in Mayberry and the local trans shop isn't exactly B&M. They don't even have a pressure gauge to check the line pressures(I asked on a previous transmission they built for me and was disatisfied with). This is NASCAR country and performance is expensive. I ended up going out of state to get a good deal on a performance tranny. Where could I get a pressure gauge to check the next install when I get this one fixed?

Thanks,

They dont have a pressure gauge! Thats crazy, I bet they have a $4000 scanner, But buying a $40 gauge is out of the question.
Heres some gauges, Any 0-300psi gauge & whip with a 1/8" NPT end on it will work.

http://www.finditparts.com/products/...-5550?cpao=114
http://www.etoolcart.com/transmissio...e-atd5550.aspx
This is what I have http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diag...s/eepv308a.asp

[Greywolf200]

[QUOTE=clinebarger;4550177]They dont have a pressure gauge! Thats crazy, I bet they have a $4000 scanner, But buying a $40 gauge is out of the question.
Heres some gauges, Any 0-300psi gauge & whip with a 1/8" NPT end on it will work.

Nope no $4000 scanner, he only got a transmission flush machine last November. Where can I find out what to look for when the gauge is attached?

This forum is the greatest!

Thanks,

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I set them so WOT pulls the cable out all the way. It is also important to have the cable hookup the proper distance from the throttle shaft & the right arc. About 1 1/8 in. is close to right.
I put one in one time & noticed it slipped in 3rd. I redid the position of the hookup on the throttle lever & it worked fine after that.

[Greywolf200]

Mr. Clinebarger, the pressure chart is a great help. The BTO website gives a good description of the pressure testing procedure, but no pressure ranges. I've ordered a pressure gauge so will be ready for round two.

How many TV springs are available and how do you determine which one you need?

Thanks,

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Greywolf200

Mr. Clinebarger, the pressure chart is a great help. The BTO website gives a good description of the pressure testing procedure, but no pressure ranges. I've ordered a pressure gauge so will be ready for round two.

How many TV springs are available and how do you determine which one you need?

Thanks,

There is around 11 different length GM springs. Then aftermarket springs from Trans-go, BTO etc. Buying the BTO kit takes the guess work out. There is no way for me to know the exact spring you need, It sounds like yours is to short.....You can play with some longer ones untill you get it right, or buy the kit.

[Sick5]

Too bad I have the universal cable that won't click.

But.my question was when taking the psi reading. Do I need to have the engine rev up to WOT. Or is it ok to take your measurement with just pulling on the cable

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Sick5

Too bad I have the universal cable that won't click.

But.my question was when taking the psi reading. Do I need to have the engine rev up to WOT. Or is it ok to take your measurement with just pulling on the cable

DO NOT race the engine to WOT in park, The valves would float or you will picking up connecting rods of the ground! The following intructions are with the engine OFF.

You have a Lokar style TV cable, OK, I guess it has some kind of crimp for the cable end?

Adjust the jamb nuts to center.
Slide the plastic end clip down the cable, then the crimp.
Hook the plastic end clip to the carb.
Clamp some locking pliers on the end of the cable.
Rotate the throttle lever to WOT (have someone hold it there).
Using the pliers pull the cable tight.
While keeping the cable tight, Push the crimp against the plastic end & crimp it/tighten it.

After installing the crimp, With the carb still at WOT, pull the cable again, if there is slack, Adjust the cable housing toward the firewall a little at a time untill the slack is no longer present.

[Sick5]

i have that part down.. thanks!
but when im doing the gauge reading with the car on the take the reading at WOT.. can i just pull on the cord to WOT and take the reading for all gears p,r,n,od,d,1,2,?

Originally Posted by clinebarger

DO NOT race the engine to WOT in park, The valves would float or you will picking up connecting rods of the ground! The following intructions are with the engine OFF.

You have a Lokar style TV cable, OK, I guess it has some kind of crimp for the cable end?

Adjust the jamb nuts to center.
Slide the plastic end clip down the cable, then the crimp.
Hook the plastic end clip to the carb.
Clamp some locking pliers on the end of the cable.
Rotate the throttle lever to WOT (have someone hold it there).
Using the pliers pull the cable tight.
While keeping the cable tight, Push the crimp against the plastic end & crimp it/tighten it.

After installing the crimp, With the carb still at WOT, pull the cable again, if there is slack, Adjust the cable housing toward the firewall a little at a time untill the slack is no longer present.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Sick5

i have that part down.. thanks!
but when im doing the gauge reading with the car on the take the reading at WOT.. can i just pull on the cord to WOT and take the reading for all gears p,r,n,od,d,1,2,?

Your asking about the "dianostic line pressure test"? Yes, Just pull the cable.

This test is for DIAGNOTICS ONLY, Full TV pressures in reverse can reach over 300PSI. This should only be performed if there is a problem & for VERY short durations.

[Sick5]

i thought you can use it to help adjust the tv cable as well.
i do notice that my 2nd gear shift to quickly
and i dont have a down shift at WOT

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Your asking about the "dianostic line pressure test"? Yes, Just pull the cable.

This test is for DIAGNOTICS ONLY, Full TV pressures in reverse can reach over 300PSI. This should only be performed if there is a problem & for VERY short durations.

[67swb72klb]

would this presure chart apply to the 2004r too ?

[Sick5]

No.it.is not fully.adjusted and tighten at WOT. Reason being it won't shift under 2000 out of first.
Yes geometry correction is applyed to.the eldobrock carb.
Will make correction tomorrow.
Sorry for High jacking this thread...

[Sick5]

when shifting out of 1st gear rpm more than likely should be under 2k right

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Sick5

when shifting out of 1st gear rpm more than likely should be under 2k right

Under light throttle, Yes it should.

Stock 700R4s are notorious for a "Slide---BUMP" 1-2 shift, I bet its the feel of the shift not the RPM it happens that has you concerned?

If your engine is not running good, You have to give more throttle.....This will cause late shifts.

The TV spring could be too long, Thats why I asked for unhooked & hooked pressures.

The TV cable adjustment is NOT a tuning tool.

Any specs on your trans? Shift kit? 2nd piston upgrade?