Engine start up - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

hammerdog57 · 05-18-2011, 08:58 PM

I bought a 1978 chevy one ton camper for the engine, trans and steering column for my 55 pickup project. The good, Has a 350 goodwench crate engine mileage uknown. Camper has 87,000 miles on it. Engine was replaced at some time.(Hopefully at the latter side of the 87,000 miles) Trans is a turbo 400. The bad, Camper has sat at a campground for 8-10 years without engine being run. What i want to do is get it running before pulling engine and trans. to check there condition. Any sugestions? Plans are to bypass fuel tank and hot wire it to get it running. (has no keys, was repossed for back storage fees) Next question is what is the best way to pull this engine? If anyone has worked on one of these you know what i mean.

Wheelie · 05-18-2011, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hammerdog57

I bought a 1978 chevy one ton camper for the engine, trans and steering column for my 55 pickup project. The good, Has a 350 goodwench crate engine mileage uknown. Camper has 87,000 miles on it. Engine was replaced at some time.(Hopefully at the latter side of the 87,000 miles) Trans is a turbo 400. The bad, Camper has sat at a campground for 8-10 years without engine being run. What i want to do is get it running before pulling engine and trans. to check there condition. Any sugestions? Plans are to bypass fuel tank and hot wire it to get it running. (has no keys, was repossed for back storage fees) Next question is what is the best way to pull this engine? If anyone has worked on one of these you know what i mean.

Get an assembly manual. Take your time.

tmoble · 05-19-2011, 01:26 AM

you should use a oil pressure primer tool to pre-oil the engine. failing that, pull all the spark plugs and spin it over till it makes pressure. Pre-oiler is much preferred. that engine is dry as a bone.

dsl30263 · 05-20-2011, 07:20 PM

If it's a "G" series cab and chassis- Looks like a Van- the engine comes out the front. Remove the radiator, grill, etc. Good luck, have fun!

tmoble · 05-20-2011, 08:10 PM

it ain't much fun. start with the front bumper and work your way back.

I had to R&R a diesel in one of those things once. Seems like it was a 6.2, maybe it was a 5.7. Never again.

Did I mention R&R a 350 in one of those things? Installed a new GM Goodwrench crate engine. It starts up with a bad rod knock and get worse. Dang.

hammerdog57 · 05-20-2011, 08:30 PM

Got to turn over. Pulled plugs and squirted a little oil in cylinders and cranked it till i had oil pressure. Come to find out fuel pump was shot and po installed an electric fuel pump which doesnt seem to work. Probably buy a mechanical fuel pump and put it on tommorow. I am wondering what condition carb and transmission seals are in after sitting so long. I was reading service manuel and it said to pull front and trans crossmember and drop engine and trans complete from below.

solidaxel · 05-21-2011, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hammerdog57

Got to turn over. Pulled plugs and squirted a little oil in cylinders and cranked it till i had oil pressure. Come to find out fuel pump was shot and po installed an electric fuel pump which doesnt seem to work. Probably buy a mechanical fuel pump and put it on tommorow. I am wondering what condition carb and transmission seals are in after sitting so long. I was reading service manuel and it said to pull front and trans crossmember and drop engine and trans complete from below.

If you are going to scrap the rest of the truck take it apart with a blue tip wrench and a gas ax.

Scrap steel is going for 10.3Cents a Lb.

Be sure and csnnge the oil and filter before you run the engine, are the mufflers in good shape to hear the engine at start up?

hammerdog57 · 05-21-2011, 05:10 PM

Good news, Engine started right up and runs strong with no noise, nocks, smoke or missing. Not even the slightest tick.Transmissiion shifts well. Only problem is with the carb. will not stay running below 1500 rpm. Open back secondaries slightly and engine idles down temporaly and dies. Carb is a quadrajet.

hammerdog57 · 05-21-2011, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidaxel

If you are going to scrap the rest of the truck take it apart with a blue tip wrench and a gas ax.

Scrap steel is going for 10.3Cents a Lb.

Be sure and csnnge the oil and filter before you run the engine, are the mufflers in good shape to hear the engine at start up?

I thought about scraping the rest of camper but will they take it with the wood and alluminum camper shell on it? I dont want to have to strip it off. Camper even came with a nice sounding pair of glasspacks!

hammerdog57 · 05-20-2011, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmoble

it ain't much fun. start with the front bumper and work your way back.

I had to R&R a diesel in one of those things once. Seems like it was a 6.2, maybe it was a 5.7. Never again.

Did I mention R&R a 350 in one of those things? Installed a new GM Goodwrench crate engine. It starts up with a bad rod knock and get worse. Dang.

Are you saying the new crate engine had a knock?

tmoble · 05-20-2011, 08:41 PM

yup. Only really bad one I've ever seen. Seen more than just a few too.

Was working outside in Phoenix in July for that. It was 115 that day. That's in the shade, if you could find any shade.

**mr48chev** · 05-21-2011, 07:16 PM

They will take it but may knock you down a bit on weight for the wood. You might just throw it on Craigslist for what you figure scrap price would be and see if someone will tow the hulk off for parts.
The carb just needs a good cleaning and a new kit put in it most likely.
I use an engine plate that mounts to the carb mount on the manifold and works with my cherry picker to lift the engine out.
I needed the plate one day and welded it up.

It isn't fancy but works well.
I mount it on the cherry picker like this.

That lets me lay the beam of the cherry picker right down on top of the engine and slip the engine out.
It helps if you block the front wheels up a few inches with some blocks or boards.
Since you won't be worried about putting an engine back in the camper you can trim for clearance as necessary.

hammerdog57 · 05-21-2011, 07:41 PM

I think i am going to remove seat. Block up engine. Remove Trans and come out the door.

**mr48chev** · 05-21-2011, 07:57 PM

That will work too but it isn't as easy as it looks. I pulled the 360 out of a Dodge van with a Wrecker boom that way and it was a challenge.
Actually any way you do it won't be easy but pulling the trans first is a good idea even if you take the engine out the front.

05-18-2011, 08:58 PM	#1
hammerdog57 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 191	Engine start up I bought a 1978 chevy one ton camper for the engine, trans and steering column for my 55 pickup project. The good, Has a 350 goodwench crate engine mileage uknown. Camper has 87,000 miles on it. Engine was replaced at some time.(Hopefully at the latter side of the 87,000 miles) Trans is a turbo 400. The bad, Camper has sat at a campground for 8-10 years without engine being run. What i want to do is get it running before pulling engine and trans. to check there condition. Any sugestions? Plans are to bypass fuel tank and hot wire it to get it running. (has no keys, was repossed for back storage fees) Next question is what is the best way to pull this engine? If anyone has worked on one of these you know what i mean.

05-19-2011, 01:26 AM	#3
tmoble Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 1,062	Re: Engine start up you should use a oil pressure primer tool to pre-oil the engine. failing that, pull all the spark plugs and spin it over till it makes pressure. Pre-oiler is much preferred. that engine is dry as a bone.

05-20-2011, 07:20 PM	#4
dsl30263 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: 30277 Posts: 31	Re: Engine start up If it's a "G" series cab and chassis- Looks like a Van- the engine comes out the front. Remove the radiator, grill, etc. Good luck, have fun!

05-20-2011, 08:10 PM	#5
tmoble Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 1,062	Re: Engine start up it ain't much fun. start with the front bumper and work your way back. I had to R&R a diesel in one of those things once. Seems like it was a 6.2, maybe it was a 5.7. Never again. Did I mention R&R a 350 in one of those things? Installed a new GM Goodwrench crate engine. It starts up with a bad rod knock and get worse. Dang.

05-20-2011, 08:30 PM	#6
hammerdog57 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 191	Re: Engine start up Got to turn over. Pulled plugs and squirted a little oil in cylinders and cranked it till i had oil pressure. Come to find out fuel pump was shot and po installed an electric fuel pump which doesnt seem to work. Probably buy a mechanical fuel pump and put it on tommorow. I am wondering what condition carb and transmission seals are in after sitting so long. I was reading service manuel and it said to pull front and trans crossmember and drop engine and trans complete from below.

05-21-2011, 05:10 PM	#8
hammerdog57 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 191	Re: Engine start up Good news, Engine started right up and runs strong with no noise, nocks, smoke or missing. Not even the slightest tick.Transmissiion shifts well. Only problem is with the carb. will not stay running below 1500 rpm. Open back secondaries slightly and engine idles down temporaly and dies. Carb is a quadrajet. Last edited by hammerdog57; 05-21-2011 at 05:23 PM.

05-20-2011, 08:41 PM	#11
tmoble Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 1,062	Re: Engine start up yup. Only really bad one I've ever seen. Seen more than just a few too. Was working outside in Phoenix in July for that. It was 115 that day. That's in the shade, if you could find any shade. Last edited by tmoble; 05-20-2011 at 08:42 PM.

05-21-2011, 07:16 PM	#12
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,711	Re: Engine start up They will take it but may knock you down a bit on weight for the wood. You might just throw it on Craigslist for what you figure scrap price would be and see if someone will tow the hulk off for parts. The carb just needs a good cleaning and a new kit put in it most likely. I use an engine plate that mounts to the carb mount on the manifold and works with my cherry picker to lift the engine out. I needed the plate one day and welded it up. It isn't fancy but works well. I mount it on the cherry picker like this. That lets me lay the beam of the cherry picker right down on top of the engine and slip the engine out. It helps if you block the front wheels up a few inches with some blocks or boards. Since you won't be worried about putting an engine back in the camper you can trim for clearance as necessary.

05-21-2011, 07:41 PM	#13
hammerdog57 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 191	Re: Engine start up I think i am going to remove seat. Block up engine. Remove Trans and come out the door.

05-21-2011, 07:57 PM	#14
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,711	Re: Engine start up That will work too but it isn't as easy as it looks. I pulled the 360 out of a Dodge van with a Wrecker boom that way and it was a challenge. Actually any way you do it won't be easy but pulling the trans first is a good idea even if you take the engine out the front.



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