New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Low & Slow · 05-23-2011, 02:33 PM

After years of playing in all different arenas of autos I have finally stumbled upon a reasonable deal on classic pickup. After classic muscle, V8 swapped mazdas, cafe racers, and lifted jeeps the last frontier is a classic pickup.

A friend of mine had a 67 C-10 longbed with a swapped in 305 and Turbo 350 tranny that he was looking to get rid of for $900. I couldn't resist. The body mounts have all been replaced, frame is rot free, motor strong, and besides the doors and bed the panels look pretty rust free. For that price I think I did pretty good. Seeing as I just graduated, the truck is a little present to myself for finishing med school

After some brief searching online I found several options as to lowering her. Because I will also be using the pickup to transport my bikes and the occasional lumber load I am not looking for anything more than a 3/4 or 4/6 drop. Being the first truck I have ever lowered I wanted to check with you guys and make sure my proposed plan would be safe and adequate.

I was looking at a set of lowering spindles for the front with new shocks/ lower springs and some lowering blocks in the rear. I have heard that 4" is the most you can go with lowering blocks. Is this correct? I also some some discussion of leaf lowering brackets combined with junkyard leafs salvaged from other trucks to lower the rear. What would my safest bet be? Blocks or brackets? Stock or Junkyard leafs?

Also, I happen to have a set of vortec heads which came on a 305 which I swapped into a car years ago in the garage. What all is involved in swapping the factory units for vortec heads? Is a new cam needed?

Thanks a ton guys!!!!!!
I can't wait to tear into the project full steam.

Yes, the Master cylinder has been replaced.

ChevLoRay · 05-23-2011, 03:01 PM

from the Heart of Arkansas!

You've come to the right place if you're into the 67-72's.

Regarding lowering: Is the rear a leaf-sprung or coil-sprung rear end? If it is coils (normally found on Chevy's) then you can drop 'em 5 inches before you run into issues with the drive shaft and the crossmember that it goes through. If it is a leaf spring truck, then you may have to add a C-notch to avoid the hassles of the rear end and the frame coming into contact.

But, check out the vendors on this site. Also, go to www.earlyclassic.com and look at what they have. I am running their stuff on my '69, and I love it!

**mikey531** · 05-23-2011, 03:03 PM

Welcome from New Hampshire

Low & Slow · 05-23-2011, 03:37 PM

My bad guys, it is coil in the rear. Thats good though right? I can swap in Jeep rear springs and be good for 3" drop correct?

Talk about a more welcome. I've never had responses that fast. I can already tell this is going to be a fun project, first my gf fully endorses one of my undertakings and now you guys welcome me with open arms. Did hell freeze over?

tooter · 05-23-2011, 03:44 PM

If you use jeep springs hauling a load will bottom out easy, you can get much better springs cheap.

MARKDTN · 05-23-2011, 03:59 PM

Looks like a good truck. Welcome.

**70cst** · 05-23-2011, 04:00 PM

and

from Ohio. I went with a 2/4 drop.

Some reading for you..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=331653

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=446765

PanelDeland · 05-23-2011, 05:00 PM

WELCOME!!!
Tons of ways to go about lowering.I suggest you look at a 2 1/2-4 using spindles front and springs rear.You shouldn't need a notch and the truck should sit level(unless you"rake" it with tire size).

BlackTopMotors · 05-23-2011, 05:10 PM

Sounds like a good deal, welcome. Not sure about your 305 question but someone here will definitely know.

cpisani70@aol.com · 05-23-2011, 06:56 PM

Welcome from CT. . You will love this site the help and support is awesome
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capev86 · 05-23-2011, 07:14 PM

go w/ the 3-4 drop. will keep a little rake for that sporty look and you will still have some ground clearance so you can use it for its original purpose (as a truck). also, the 3/4 drop won't require you to notch the frame so save time, money and be able to put it back to stock if your tastes or needs change in the future. also, they make 3/4 ton lowering springs so you could run those in the rear and be able to haul loads without sag.

hugger6933 · 05-23-2011, 08:17 PM

Welcome and congrats on completeing med school That is a major deal. now as far as lowering I would think about the 2/4 drop and on the vortec's if they are from a 305 and you have a 305 DO IT!!! I know on most average small blocks [i'm talking 350's now] the vortecs will add about 35-40 hp with no other changes. No you won't have to change cams but you do have to have a vortec specific intake manifold. I have changed to vortecs before and it will wake one up. They flow sooo well. Jim

Low & Slow · 05-23-2011, 10:58 PM

Thanks for all the tips guys! Keep them coming. I literally know nothing about truck suspensions.

I should have specified that the only loads I'll be hauling will be light, at most my 75 triumph. Will a 4/6 drop be too low to haul a bike on the highway?

More importantly, cheap is the idea. I'm blessed with a 40+ acre junkyard about 20 minutes away so I can pull basically anything on the cheaps. What would the ideal junkyard lowering kit consist of forthe rear springs? Can jeep springs be used for the front too? I understand the front will require some drop spindles and there's no way aroun spending that coin but the rear can be done low budget from what I gather.

I happen to also have a vortec intake manifold as well as the heads but it's a TBI unit

. Are the heads direct bolt on swap? I've never broken a motor open, just bolte parts on. Do valves have to be messed with? Timing done?

Med school isn't the hard part, paying for the education and keeping he gf around is lol.
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treveiger · 05-23-2011, 11:43 PM

Welcome to the forum!!!!! I think you got a great deal on the truck.
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67chevy1series · 05-23-2011, 11:52 PM

welcome! thats a nice 67!!!!

stsalvage · 05-24-2011, 12:52 AM

why is it that every time i see one of these trucks the alternator is on the wrong side What do you people do with the brackets that come on these trucks.What do most of the people think when it comes to running more wires over there engines then they really should.Now back in the day there where no such things to Mods.Most of the time they where plain broke.I like a stock truck Cus There is not one person in this site and Has More time or more money to R&D program then GM did.Reason why these trucks lasted the longest Cus they made them basic.No use to reinvent the wheel. No need Reason why i'm so negative about mods Dose any one ever see any of these trucks that where in any or the trucking magazines or classic truck magazines driving on the road I don't all them mini trucks back in the 85--95 NONE reason why to many people put to many mods in to them to make them not work messing with and they get junked.All the trucks and car's that where left stock will be here for a long time.

Most of us in here when we find a truck that has not been touched we feel that we scored.

Now think if you found a 1971 Cheyenne and some one Put a fuel injected motor in it Put the computer in it shaved all the door handles and tail gate handle put roll pans in the front and the back did a full on Air bag ride where they hacked up the frame and the bed and Hacked the wire harness.Most of us would just pass it buy and say we don't want some one Else's project.

If that was true we be building the 1976--2005 trucks Now.I'm not one to find or buy some ones hacked projects.So keep them as close to stock with the good upgrades like

Power steering,Power brakes, Disc brakes A/C 700R4 poise traction Lowering it all these are wonderful upgrades that i like to find in a truck that some one has started.

But i say keep it basic if you want a new truck feel buy a new truck.I'm not one for shaved anything I've bought over 40 of these trucks from 1964--72 and I've junked 15 cabs from people and there stupid mods cost me more to fix it then it would to find me another cab.In about 5 more years these truck will be a thing of the pass and the 1973--87 will be the new truck to hack up

Low & Slow · 05-24-2011, 07:12 AM

Wait wait wait I didn't do the motor swap nor did I mention anything about taking an angle grinder to one inch of the body or frame. She actually does have power steering already as a matter of fact

.

I just wanted to make the stance a little more agressive and replace the seats. If the motor happens to be a 305 and I happen to have 305 vortec heads that's a direct bolt on mod.

If I wanted to follow hype I would have bought a beat Mazda b2200 and juiced it. I pride myself in being unique, first car in high school was a 71 road runner 383, three on the tree. Still have it in storage, still numers matching with factory paint.

Don't worry, I don't plan to do a single thing to the old c10 that cannot be reversed.
Posted via Mobile Device

chevy72pu · 05-25-2011, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stsalvage

why is it that every time i see one of these trucks the alternator is on the wrong side What do you people do with the brackets that come on these trucks.What do most of the people think when it comes to running more wires over there engines then they really should.Now back in the day there where no such things to Mods.Most of the time they where plain broke.I like a stock truck Cus There is not one person in this site and Has More time or more money to R&D program then GM did.Reason why these trucks lasted the longest Cus they made them basic.No use to reinvent the wheel. No need Reason why i'm so negative about mods Dose any one ever see any of these trucks that where in any or the trucking magazines or classic truck magazines driving on the road I don't all them mini trucks back in the 85--95 NONE reason why to many people put to many mods in to them to make them not work messing with and they get junked.All the trucks and car's that where left stock will be here for a long time.

Most of us in here when we find a truck that has not been touched we feel that we scored.

Now think if you found a 1971 Cheyenne and some one Put a fuel injected motor in it Put the computer in it shaved all the door handles and tail gate handle put roll pans in the front and the back did a full on Air bag ride where they hacked up the frame and the bed and Hacked the wire harness.Most of us would just pass it buy and say we don't want some one Else's project.

If that was true we be building the 1976--2005 trucks Now.I'm not one to find or buy some ones hacked projects.So keep them as close to stock with the good upgrades like

Power steering,Power brakes, Disc brakes A/C 700R4 poise traction Lowering it all these are wonderful upgrades that i like to find in a truck that some one has started.

But i say keep it basic if you want a new truck feel buy a new truck.I'm not one for shaved anything I've bought over 40 of these trucks from 1964--72 and I've junked 15 cabs from people and there stupid mods cost me more to fix it then it would to find me another cab.In about 5 more years these truck will be a thing of the pass and the 1973--87 will be the new truck to hack up

Whoa!! Did somebody wake up on the wrong side of the bed?

Welcome to the board Low and Slow. Hope you find all the info you need here. It is your truck so enjoy it the way YOU want too!

406 Q-ship · 05-25-2011, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stsalvage

why is it that every time i see one of these trucks the alternator is on the wrong side What do you people do with the brackets that come on these trucks.What do most of the people think when it comes to running more wires over there engines then they really should.Now back in the day there where no such things to Mods.Most of the time they where plain broke.I like a stock truck Cus There is not one person in this site and Has More time or more money to R&D program then GM did.Reason why these trucks lasted the longest Cus they made them basic.No use to reinvent the wheel. No need Reason why i'm so negative about mods Dose any one ever see any of these trucks that where in any or the trucking magazines or classic truck magazines driving on the road I don't all them mini trucks back in the 85--95 NONE reason why to many people put to many mods in to them to make them not work messing with and they get junked.All the trucks and car's that where left stock will be here for a long time.

Most of us in here when we find a truck that has not been touched we feel that we scored.

Now think if you found a 1971 Cheyenne and some one Put a fuel injected motor in it Put the computer in it shaved all the door handles and tail gate handle put roll pans in the front and the back did a full on Air bag ride where they hacked up the frame and the bed and Hacked the wire harness.Most of us would just pass it buy and say we don't want some one Else's project.

If that was true we be building the 1976--2005 trucks Now.I'm not one to find or buy some ones hacked projects.So keep them as close to stock with the good upgrades like

Power steering,Power brakes, Disc brakes A/C 700R4 poise traction Lowering it all these are wonderful upgrades that i like to find in a truck that some one has started.

But i say keep it basic if you want a new truck feel buy a new truck.I'm not one for shaved anything I've bought over 40 of these trucks from 1964--72 and I've junked 15 cabs from people and there stupid mods cost me more to fix it then it would to find me another cab.In about 5 more years these truck will be a thing of the pass and the 1973--87 will be the new truck to hack up

Who peed in your cornflakes?

My truck has had the later accessory drive installed (mine was a I6 new) on the front of the engine. So my alt is on the right side (pun intended) and does not have the 2 mile long fan belt that has a habit of getting twisted and tossed. There is a reason that GM high paid engineers got rid of the earlier left side alt mounting. The overdrive trans makes the truck more economical to drive, remember gas isn't 34 cents a gallon anymore. Updating the driveline is not a down to resale, in most cases it is an added value to most but not all possible buyers. Do you run your truck with the original bias ply tires, cause that is what GM engineers designed it to run on, that should be the best driving and longest lasting.....in your logic.

To the OP, I did a 3.5/4 (heavy duty rear spring) drop on my truck to keep the load carring ability. I have heard negative comments on the jeep spring load abilities.

Low & Slow · 05-27-2011, 10:48 AM

So got a chance to tear into the c10 yesterday. Attempted working on the brakes. New master cylinder in, bled all the lines. No air left in the lines but still no pressure in the peddle. Gravity fed all the lines too but realized that I forgot to bench bled the master before installing. Would this be my culprit?

Also, some cell pics of the only rust besides on the fenders. How bad does this look?

Does this rear end suspension look factory to you guys? Something just doesn't look kosher to me. The PO was a mechanic so I really have no idea what is going on here. Everything painted in yellow looks as if it is from a later model truck. Thoughts?

bw4sale · 05-24-2011, 09:57 AM

First off, welcome to the greatest site on the net.

Secondly, it's your truck. Do what you want with it. Don't listen to mister grumpy gills up there.

Thirdly, I don't think anyone addressed your 4" lowering block question. Lowering blocks can be made cheap, but I don't think you can run that big of a block, especially with a 15" rim. You run into scrub line issues. You don't want the bottom of the shock lower than the lowest part of your rim. Major problems if you have a flat while driving. I've heard of people running 3" but that's with a 22" rim. I'm going to run a 2" with 17" rims and I'm a little worried about it. Get some good lowering springs. They're worth the money. If you need more drop, make a 1-2" block.

Hope this helps.

**Ironhorse** · 05-24-2011, 10:09 AM

First off, welcome to the best truck board on the internet. You won't find a better batch of folks more knowledgeable and more willing to share that knowledge than right here.

Secondly, really consider becoming a dues paying member, it will be the best $25 yearly that you'll ever spend. Allows you to buy, sell, and post want to buy ads which is quite helpful when looking for original parts for these older trucks or sell good useable parts not needed to your build.

Third, can't help with the lowering questions as I am in the other direction, stock heighth '71 4x4 Long Bed. Just wanted to say "Welcome Aboard" and you scored a nice lookin' truck to start a truck project.

Low & Slow · 05-24-2011, 11:05 AM

^ That was my next plan of action seeing as the lab is missing some interior parts and recenet trips to the junkyard have not yielded any. A membership seems to be my only option if I have any hopes of tracking down a glove box door and a new grille up front.

So lowering blocks are out for now. I have pretty much settled on lowering springs in the rear and new shocks. The front is where I am puzzled.

When I get time this weekend and get a chance to get under it Ill know what I am dealing with. If things are in need of replacement that will be the first priority. I know the exhaust, which has been made into side exit and is hanging from a coat hanger is in need of attention. I have a glass pack in the garage which will serve to pass inspection until I can decided on a exhaust I like. Any suggestions on a muffler which will produce a nice deep sound out of a 305?

Thanks again!

VA72C10 · 05-27-2011, 02:04 PM

Welcome and a nice project. The pictures of the rear are correct for a factory trailing arm truck and the technology is still used in nascar today!

For budget, you can do a 2/4 drop without spindles. even a 3/5 with just springs.

If you plan to upgrade to discs in the front, then consider the 4.5/6 drop as in my humble opinion, it is the best looking static drop for our trucks. Will require an adjustable panhard bar and lowering shocks/shock relocators also but those are a good idea with any drop.

On the doors, I'd look for a good pair of rust free doors on craigslist or junkyard....they can be patched, but the patch panels made for them aren't the best and if you search long enough you can get good deals on nice doors. I found a rust free door with some dents I swapped some parts for (free) Dents are a lot easier to take care of than rust

Check out the FAQ section for a great resource.

And a quick search tip....use the advanced search on the board and select only the forum you're interested in (FAQ, parts, 67-72, etc...)

OR...I've had a lot of success just typing in a search in google. This board dominates google for 67-72 truck info so many times it will pull up easily that way.

stsalvage · 05-27-2011, 02:26 PM

Ya it was my day to rag for give me all Bord members and new people to the site I guess when i see trucks heading to the scrap yard that could of been really nice trucks but instead there all hacked up from people trying to experiment on being a designer or a hot rod builder and they run out of time or they give up and its so transformed from it's once good glory It just makes me Sad cus in about 5 years there will be no more of these trucks like we see to day.But again Forgive me i was having a off day by seeing 12 of are trucks being Junked by the salvation army or what ever that none prefect group is such a shame lots of use full parts and good memoirs lost

05-23-2011, 02:33 PM	#1
Low & Slow Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Philly Pa Posts: 124	New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. After years of playing in all different arenas of autos I have finally stumbled upon a reasonable deal on classic pickup. After classic muscle, V8 swapped mazdas, cafe racers, and lifted jeeps the last frontier is a classic pickup. A friend of mine had a 67 C-10 longbed with a swapped in 305 and Turbo 350 tranny that he was looking to get rid of for $900. I couldn't resist. The body mounts have all been replaced, frame is rot free, motor strong, and besides the doors and bed the panels look pretty rust free. For that price I think I did pretty good. Seeing as I just graduated, the truck is a little present to myself for finishing med school After some brief searching online I found several options as to lowering her. Because I will also be using the pickup to transport my bikes and the occasional lumber load I am not looking for anything more than a 3/4 or 4/6 drop. Being the first truck I have ever lowered I wanted to check with you guys and make sure my proposed plan would be safe and adequate. I was looking at a set of lowering spindles for the front with new shocks/ lower springs and some lowering blocks in the rear. I have heard that 4" is the most you can go with lowering blocks. Is this correct? I also some some discussion of leaf lowering brackets combined with junkyard leafs salvaged from other trucks to lower the rear. What would my safest bet be? Blocks or brackets? Stock or Junkyard leafs? Also, I happen to have a set of vortec heads which came on a 305 which I swapped into a car years ago in the garage. What all is involved in swapping the factory units for vortec heads? Is a new cam needed? Thanks a ton guys!!!!!! I can't wait to tear into the project full steam. Yes, the Master cylinder has been replaced. Last edited by Low & Slow; 05-23-2011 at 03:00 PM.

05-23-2011, 03:01 PM	#2
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. from the Heart of Arkansas! You've come to the right place if you're into the 67-72's. Regarding lowering: Is the rear a leaf-sprung or coil-sprung rear end? If it is coils (normally found on Chevy's) then you can drop 'em 5 inches before you run into issues with the drive shaft and the crossmember that it goes through. If it is a leaf spring truck, then you may have to add a C-notch to avoid the hassles of the rear end and the frame coming into contact. But, check out the vendors on this site. Also, go to www.earlyclassic.com and look at what they have. I am running their stuff on my '69, and I love it! __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

05-23-2011, 03:03 PM	#3
mikey531 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Exeter, NH Posts: 795	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Welcome from New Hampshire

05-23-2011, 03:37 PM	#4
Low & Slow Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Philly Pa Posts: 124	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. My bad guys, it is coil in the rear. Thats good though right? I can swap in Jeep rear springs and be good for 3" drop correct? Talk about a more welcome. I've never had responses that fast. I can already tell this is going to be a fun project, first my gf fully endorses one of my undertakings and now you guys welcome me with open arms. Did hell freeze over?

05-23-2011, 03:44 PM	#5
tooter Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Moss Point , Ms Posts: 1,342	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. If you use jeep springs hauling a load will bottom out easy, you can get much better springs cheap. __________________ My Ole 67 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=505830

05-23-2011, 03:59 PM	#6
MARKDTN Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 2,171	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Looks like a good truck. Welcome. __________________ '83 K20-TPI '73 C10 '79 C10-ex-diesel(SOLD) '07 Tahoe(Son driving) '14 Suburban-DD '71 C10-current project

05-23-2011, 04:00 PM	#7
70cst Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: New Madison, Ohio Posts: 21,374	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. and from Ohio. I went with a 2/4 drop. Some reading for you.. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=331653 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=446765 __________________ A husband can be right...or...A husband can be happy. 67-72 Chevy and GMC Trucks...The Classic Truck for the Classic Folk. 1970 CST Two tone green, 402BB, 400 Automatic, Tach, Buckets, AC, AM-FM, Tilt, GM CB, GM 8 Tract, LWB, etc JOHN 17:3...The better side of "LIFE" Remember: Everyday is a good day...Some are just gooder! Last edited by 70cst; 05-23-2011 at 04:08 PM.

05-23-2011, 05:00 PM	#8
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. WELCOME!!! Tons of ways to go about lowering.I suggest you look at a 2 1/2-4 using spindles front and springs rear.You shouldn't need a notch and the truck should sit level(unless you"rake" it with tire size). __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

05-23-2011, 05:10 PM	#9
BlackTopMotors Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Valencia, CA Posts: 364	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Sounds like a good deal, welcome. Not sure about your 305 question but someone here will definitely know.

05-23-2011, 06:56 PM	#10
cpisani70@aol.com Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Wallingford CT Posts: 260	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Welcome from CT. . You will love this site the help and support is awesome Posted via Mobile Device

05-23-2011, 07:14 PM	#11
capev86 Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Eliot, Maine Posts: 1,314	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. go w/ the 3-4 drop. will keep a little rake for that sporty look and you will still have some ground clearance so you can use it for its original purpose (as a truck). also, the 3/4 drop won't require you to notch the frame so save time, money and be able to put it back to stock if your tastes or needs change in the future. also, they make 3/4 ton lowering springs so you could run those in the rear and be able to haul loads without sag. Last edited by capev86; 05-23-2011 at 07:15 PM.

05-23-2011, 08:17 PM	#12
hugger6933 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Marianna Arkansas Posts: 7,280	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Welcome and congrats on completeing med school That is a major deal. now as far as lowering I would think about the 2/4 drop and on the vortec's if they are from a 305 and you have a 305 DO IT!!! I know on most average small blocks [i'm talking 350's now] the vortecs will add about 35-40 hp with no other changes. No you won't have to change cams but you do have to have a vortec specific intake manifold. I have changed to vortecs before and it will wake one up. They flow sooo well. Jim

05-23-2011, 10:58 PM	#13
Low & Slow Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Philly Pa Posts: 124	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Thanks for all the tips guys! Keep them coming. I literally know nothing about truck suspensions. I should have specified that the only loads I'll be hauling will be light, at most my 75 triumph. Will a 4/6 drop be too low to haul a bike on the highway? More importantly, cheap is the idea. I'm blessed with a 40+ acre junkyard about 20 minutes away so I can pull basically anything on the cheaps. What would the ideal junkyard lowering kit consist of forthe rear springs? Can jeep springs be used for the front too? I understand the front will require some drop spindles and there's no way aroun spending that coin but the rear can be done low budget from what I gather. I happen to also have a vortec intake manifold as well as the heads but it's a TBI unit . Are the heads direct bolt on swap? I've never broken a motor open, just bolte parts on. Do valves have to be messed with? Timing done? Med school isn't the hard part, paying for the education and keeping he gf around is lol. Posted via Mobile Device

05-23-2011, 11:43 PM	#14
treveiger Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South Dakota Posts: 4,094	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Welcome to the forum!!!!! I think you got a great deal on the truck. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1969 Chevy c20(Miss Hackjob)

05-23-2011, 11:52 PM	#15
67chevy1series Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: a t w a t e r cali 95301 Posts: 10,713	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. welcome! thats a nice 67!!!!



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05-24-2011, 12:52 AM	#16
stsalvage Scrapper 1 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Riverside Calif Posts: 1,649	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. why is it that every time i see one of these trucks the alternator is on the wrong side What do you people do with the brackets that come on these trucks.What do most of the people think when it comes to running more wires over there engines then they really should.Now back in the day there where no such things to Mods.Most of the time they where plain broke.I like a stock truck Cus There is not one person in this site and Has More time or more money to R&D program then GM did.Reason why these trucks lasted the longest Cus they made them basic.No use to reinvent the wheel. No need Reason why i'm so negative about mods Dose any one ever see any of these trucks that where in any or the trucking magazines or classic truck magazines driving on the road I don't all them mini trucks back in the 85--95 NONE reason why to many people put to many mods in to them to make them not work messing with and they get junked.All the trucks and car's that where left stock will be here for a long time. Most of us in here when we find a truck that has not been touched we feel that we scored. Now think if you found a 1971 Cheyenne and some one Put a fuel injected motor in it Put the computer in it shaved all the door handles and tail gate handle put roll pans in the front and the back did a full on Air bag ride where they hacked up the frame and the bed and Hacked the wire harness.Most of us would just pass it buy and say we don't want some one Else's project. If that was true we be building the 1976--2005 trucks Now.I'm not one to find or buy some ones hacked projects.So keep them as close to stock with the good upgrades like Power steering,Power brakes, Disc brakes A/C 700R4 poise traction Lowering it all these are wonderful upgrades that i like to find in a truck that some one has started. But i say keep it basic if you want a new truck feel buy a new truck.I'm not one for shaved anything I've bought over 40 of these trucks from 1964--72 and I've junked 15 cabs from people and there stupid mods cost me more to fix it then it would to find me another cab.In about 5 more years these truck will be a thing of the pass and the 1973--87 will be the new truck to hack up

05-24-2011, 07:12 AM	#17
Low & Slow Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Philly Pa Posts: 124	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Wait wait wait I didn't do the motor swap nor did I mention anything about taking an angle grinder to one inch of the body or frame. She actually does have power steering already as a matter of fact . I just wanted to make the stance a little more agressive and replace the seats. If the motor happens to be a 305 and I happen to have 305 vortec heads that's a direct bolt on mod. If I wanted to follow hype I would have bought a beat Mazda b2200 and juiced it. I pride myself in being unique, first car in high school was a 71 road runner 383, three on the tree. Still have it in storage, still numers matching with factory paint. Don't worry, I don't plan to do a single thing to the old c10 that cannot be reversed. Posted via Mobile Device

05-27-2011, 10:48 AM	#20
Low & Slow Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Philly Pa Posts: 124	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. So got a chance to tear into the c10 yesterday. Attempted working on the brakes. New master cylinder in, bled all the lines. No air left in the lines but still no pressure in the peddle. Gravity fed all the lines too but realized that I forgot to bench bled the master before installing. Would this be my culprit? Also, some cell pics of the only rust besides on the fenders. How bad does this look? Does this rear end suspension look factory to you guys? Something just doesn't look kosher to me. The PO was a mechanic so I really have no idea what is going on here. Everything painted in yellow looks as if it is from a later model truck. Thoughts? Last edited by Low & Slow; 05-27-2011 at 10:57 AM.

05-24-2011, 09:57 AM	#21
bw4sale Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hendersonville, TN Posts: 1,528	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. First off, welcome to the greatest site on the net. Secondly, it's your truck. Do what you want with it. Don't listen to mister grumpy gills up there. Thirdly, I don't think anyone addressed your 4" lowering block question. Lowering blocks can be made cheap, but I don't think you can run that big of a block, especially with a 15" rim. You run into scrub line issues. You don't want the bottom of the shock lower than the lowest part of your rim. Major problems if you have a flat while driving. I've heard of people running 3" but that's with a 22" rim. I'm going to run a 2" with 17" rims and I'm a little worried about it. Get some good lowering springs. They're worth the money. If you need more drop, make a 1-2" block. Hope this helps. __________________ BRENT -'68 Stepside Project -'98 Z71 Daily Driver -Enough extra parts to build another truck and a half

05-24-2011, 10:09 AM	#22
Ironhorse Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Wellington, Ks Posts: 10,301	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. First off, welcome to the best truck board on the internet. You won't find a better batch of folks more knowledgeable and more willing to share that knowledge than right here. Secondly, really consider becoming a dues paying member, it will be the best $25 yearly that you'll ever spend. Allows you to buy, sell, and post want to buy ads which is quite helpful when looking for original parts for these older trucks or sell good useable parts not needed to your build. Third, can't help with the lowering questions as I am in the other direction, stock heighth '71 4x4 Long Bed. Just wanted to say "Welcome Aboard" and you scored a nice lookin' truck to start a truck project. __________________ 1971 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 LWB 350 V-8 Was sm465-now 350TH/np205 Tilt, Tach, Towhooks Original Truck AM/FM Wellington, Ks

05-24-2011, 11:05 AM	#23
Low & Slow Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Philly Pa Posts: 124	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. ^ That was my next plan of action seeing as the lab is missing some interior parts and recenet trips to the junkyard have not yielded any. A membership seems to be my only option if I have any hopes of tracking down a glove box door and a new grille up front. So lowering blocks are out for now. I have pretty much settled on lowering springs in the rear and new shocks. The front is where I am puzzled. When I get time this weekend and get a chance to get under it Ill know what I am dealing with. If things are in need of replacement that will be the first priority. I know the exhaust, which has been made into side exit and is hanging from a coat hanger is in need of attention. I have a glass pack in the garage which will serve to pass inspection until I can decided on a exhaust I like. Any suggestions on a muffler which will produce a nice deep sound out of a 305? Thanks again! Last edited by Low & Slow; 05-24-2011 at 11:06 AM.

05-27-2011, 02:04 PM	#24
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,267	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Welcome and a nice project. The pictures of the rear are correct for a factory trailing arm truck and the technology is still used in nascar today! For budget, you can do a 2/4 drop without spindles. even a 3/5 with just springs. If you plan to upgrade to discs in the front, then consider the 4.5/6 drop as in my humble opinion, it is the best looking static drop for our trucks. Will require an adjustable panhard bar and lowering shocks/shock relocators also but those are a good idea with any drop. On the doors, I'd look for a good pair of rust free doors on craigslist or junkyard....they can be patched, but the patch panels made for them aren't the best and if you search long enough you can get good deals on nice doors. I found a rust free door with some dents I swapped some parts for (free) Dents are a lot easier to take care of than rust Check out the FAQ section for a great resource. And a quick search tip....use the advanced search on the board and select only the forum you're interested in (FAQ, parts, 67-72, etc...) OR...I've had a lot of success just typing in a search in google. This board dominates google for 67-72 truck info so many times it will pull up easily that way. __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

05-27-2011, 02:26 PM	#25
stsalvage Scrapper 1 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Riverside Calif Posts: 1,649	Re: New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched. Ya it was my day to rag for give me all Bord members and new people to the site I guess when i see trucks heading to the scrap yard that could of been really nice trucks but instead there all hacked up from people trying to experiment on being a designer or a hot rod builder and they run out of time or they give up and its so transformed from it's once good glory It just makes me Sad cus in about 5 years there will be no more of these trucks like we see to day.But again Forgive me i was having a off day by seeing 12 of are trucks being Junked by the salvation army or what ever that none prefect group is such a shame lots of use full parts and good memoirs lost

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