Filling body holes with lead (lead free)

[Derek71784]

As a response to filling body holes I decided to write this. A few people were interesting in this method of filling holes.

Excuse my inability to do this as well as I probably could have but this is my first thread, so on that note.... take it easy on me, however some constructive criticism would be good as well.

The First Picture you will note is: Tools that you probably either have or could get cheaply.

The Second: An area that needs some work (has holes, although you can fix dents with lead too)

The Third: I cleaned up the area I was working with using the rol-loc sandpaper discs (80grit) and feathered the edges with a block sander to make a smoother transition until i strip the rest of the paint.

The Fourth: I prepped the area with tinning flux that you can buy as well from Eastwoods

The Fifth: Is the area after using the Torch to "burn in the flux"

- After spreading the flux use your torch to heat it up
- You will see the flux start to change from gray to "chrome"
- Evenly heat the area so it turns it this way and wipe off while still hot
- After you are through it should look similar to this.

[Derek71784]

Cont.

The Sixth: The Lead has been applied.

- Using your torch heat the area gently.
- Apply the solder to the area and gently push it into the hole
- I personally apply a little more heat once this has been taken care of to help sink in the lead. You can also used a spreader stick.

The Seventh: Clean sanded

- After letting the lead cool down using the same rol-loc sanding disc I sanded the lead to a smooth finish
- Now apply what little spot putty or body filler you need, which shouldnt be too much.

The Eighth: A little bit closer now.

- From a closer view you can see that there is hardly any difference in the look and surface depth using lead.

[elf w/capital T]

hell yeah

[67_C-30]

Very nice!

[Beat68CST]

Definitely sweet!


Did you have a roof visor on the truck before?!

[Derek71784]

Originally Posted by Beat68CST

Definitely sweet!


Did you have a roof visor on the truck before?!

The guy before me put a truly southwest style sun visor on it as well as some huge "80's" style ford mirrors that didnt match from side to side so now I'm fixing what he did. I bought the lead to do the doors and roof, did the doors and decided to do the roof before I deploy.

[bosco200]

That is Sweet!

[Pop's C-10]

nice

[farmall]

Thanks Professor.
I have 14 holes in each door. I will give it a try.

[Dieselwrencher]

Great tip! Did you purchase the lead from Eastwood's too?

[Derek71784]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Great tip! Did you purchase the lead from Eastwood's too?

Yes, the lead and flux. I planned on getting the spreaders. However after doing it a little I found they aren't really needed.

As for the door holes I would recommend removing the doors and laying them down. After doing the doors then the roof I realized it's far easier to do on a horizontal surface.
Posted via Mobile Device

[ChevLoRay]

I have wondered about the oxymoronic phrase "lead-free lead". But, I also have experience with soldering and built a mailbox in the 8th grade out of sheet metal and solder.

So, that has made me think that I should try it. I don't have a welder, and this looks like the right way to go. Thanks for the thread.

[Derek71784]

Originally Posted by ChevLoRay

I have wondered about the oxymoronic phrase "lead-free lead". But, I also have experience with soldering and built a mailbox in the 8th grade out of sheet metal and solder.

So, that has made me think that I should try it. I don't have a welder, and this looks like the right way to go. Thanks for the thread.

The Eastwoods Lead free "lead" (or body solder) is made of copper, tin, and zinc and supposedly alot stronger and easier to lay down than conventional lead which is 30% tin, 70% lead.

Also, (probably a downfall of mine) unless painting I dont like to wear a respirator, as well as I have a little one on the way so I'm not big on the idea of having lead products around the house. Especially in tiny fine particles that come with the finishing process.

[67chevemall]

Sweet!

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the info! That looks like alot less work filling holes than welding and grinding due to the heat.

[68gmsee]

Good job!

I have a lot of pin holes on the top of my cab I'd like to seal off but I have a question: How well does the solder hold?

I remember filling a hole with bondo and after sanding it down flat the bondo fell off. I'm not a body person but what I wound up doing is indenting the area slightly and then refilling and resanding flat. Did you have to do that?

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

Good job!

I have a lot of pin holes on the top of my cab I'd like to seal off but I have a question: How well does the solder hold?

I remember filling a hole with bondo and after sanding it down flat the bondo fell off. I'm not a body person but what I wound up doing is indenting the area slightly and then refilling and resanding flat. Did you have to do that?

Lead holds up fine. i have been doing it that way for years in fact I did lead before bondo

I have indented them on larger holes but small ones I did not

[Derek71784]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

Good job!

I have a lot of pin holes on the top of my cab I'd like to seal off but I have a question: How well does the solder hold?

I remember filling a hole with bondo and after sanding it down flat the bondo fell off. I'm not a body person but what I wound up doing is indenting the area slightly and then refilling and resanding flat. Did you have to do that?

Like someone else said, it holds up fine. I noticed while working inside my door one day after filling it that it kinda swells and adheres to the back as well so I just do it with no indent.

Also as for strength, there is a YouTube video of a guy bending bondo and cracking it, then showing that lead will not until an extreme bend is introduced.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Beat68CST]

That thing was classy! You shoulda left it on there! :P

ahahaha!



Looks good man!

[ChevLoRay]

I think there's a limit on how large a hole you can fill, but using something on the backside, like tacking it in place, should make it possible and easier.

[Lippyp]

Just one note really, I know this is lead free lead but if using leaded lead you shouldn't ever finish it with a machine, hand body files only as the dust will be pretty lethal.

Looks great though, I've been thinking about having a go on mine at some point on heavily pitted areas as unlike bondo it'll never absorb water.

[stich626]

why the leadless solder tho..
the good ole lead works great

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by stich626

why the leadless solder tho..
the good ole lead works great

thats what i use. the old fashioned stuff. I am 60 and am smarter now but I still like the old stuff. Companies are just afraid of lawsuits. I've breathed lead,dust,fumes, played with lead scrap when i was a kid. pays to be safe now but i still use it and it works better than the new IMO and have used both. I generally stay away from Eastwood products as they are availible locally here and Eastwoods are kind of overpriced. Good company however I have been there many times.
just some info,the posting is on patchiing holes(good one to) but if doing body seams and not properly prepared don't think it won't rust under the lead. It will if not done correctly. and you will see the lead bulge out down the line. small holes are a good place to start.

[Derek71784]

Originally Posted by stich626

why the leadless solder tho..
the good ole lead works great

I usually don't worry too much about safety and things of the such....I'm an infantryman in the army, if that tells you anything. But with a kiddo on the way, I'm trying to change my ways to maybe make her days a little longer and brighter.

[mbgmike]

i pays to be safe when using it. lead has been used since Romans used it for pipes. Just best to be smart when using it. Be careful over there. my nephew is over there some where