Speedway Chevy Pickup Duel Mater Cylinder Adapter

[Dave K]

Has anyone used the Speedway 1955-59 Chevy Pickup Duel Master Cylinder Adapter?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-59-Chevy-Pickup

How much work is to install and add the needed brake lines to split the front and rear brake lines? Did you wind up needing to add a brake balancer? Would like to make this mod but I am in the middle of a major house remodel and can not get stuck spending days or weeks with my truck off the road if it is a complicated swap.

Thanks for any help

Dave

[OrrieG]

I get an error message on speedways site when I click the link.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Me too.

[tmoble]

this one? hopefully going on Tuesday if my buddy's rack is available.

[tmoble]

the end of the link got cut off, try

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-5...ter,34153.html

[Dave K]

Sorry about the bad link.

Has anyone looked at how much it takes to modify the brake line plumbing to accommodate the duel master? Is there a way to make a jumper line and keep most of the stock brake line plumbing till a later date when I have time to make the needed mods to split the front and rear?

Sorry for all the questions but I do not have time to jack up my truck (it is way to low to look under there with no jack) and really see what I am up against.

Thanks

Dave

[mknittle]

I know splitting the lines is a bit of work. but if you don't and try to use a split master cylinder you are asking for trouble big time!!
If the brakes fail the best thing that can happen is you wreck your truck. and the worst ........You or somebody else meets the grim reaper.
Kinda makes splitting the lines worth it!

And do use a double flair on all brake lines.

[OrrieG]

The speedway piece looks similar to the one I made in 85 when I converted to dual MC. Make sure you have a MC to match your application (drum/drum assumed since you are running a single now). You will also need a proportioning valve, that is the device that allows the front or rears to continue working if either loose pressure. I can't remember if the stock MC has one or two outlets. You will just need to plumb the MC to the proportioning valve (2 lines) then the PV to the front and rear lines. If stock only has one to a tee for front and back you will need to remove the tee and replace with elbows or straight fititngs with the same flare configuration (usually inverted flare). Tubing with both ends flared with fittings is available from NAPA, etc. in lengths starting at about 16" and 12" increments out to 6 feet. If you need to buy a bending tool do NOT get the cheap ones, spend $20 on a good tool or get ready to do a lot of line twice because of kinks or flat spots. Flaring is not rocket science just takes attention to getting the tubing set the right height in the tool. I did all my brake lines in one day with no previous experience flaring, I found an old Imperial kit at a estate sale for $15. Make sure you get your fittings from an auto store, ACE, HD, etc. do not have the auto stuff and for the most part the brass fitting they have will not work for fuel or brake applications. Also, with a slammed truck if the MC gets below or near level with the wheel cylinders you will need inline check valves between the proportioning valve and wheel lines.

[wildearp]

CPP offers a dual master cylinder with a built in proportioning valve. This is a huge problem solver. If you are not using power brakes, get the one with the 1" bore. Get 1 1/8" bore for power booster apps.