350 Stock Machine work

[srmedic]

I have a 1969 C-10 SWB 350 Automatic stock engine. I pulled it out of the truck and stripped it down to the block. There is noticable lip in the cyclinder wall and also there isn't a stamp on the piston so I don't beleive it has been bored before. I'll have the machinist check. My Question is. I want to rebuild this engine. Nothing crazy just a master rebuild kit and and what ever machine work that needs to be done. The problem is I don't know what machine work needs to be done.

Bore and Hone the cylinders
get it dipped to clean it up
and have it checked for cracks.

It was smoking bluish smoke and I assumed that the # 8 cyclinder ring was bad because when I broke it down there was a noticible amount of black grime on the exhaust of the # 8 cylinder.

I'm no profressional when it comes to engine. I'm deployed right now to Afghanstan and would like some advice so I can get started. I know that I will need to get a master rebuild kit so I have the pistons in order for the cylinders to be honed.

I'm not looking for anything fancy just the minimums to get the truck up and running strong again.

[blackedoutharley]

Boil the block
Bore cylinders
install cam bearings
fit pistons to rods
resize rods and install new bolts
turn (or polish) crank
Surface the heads
Grind seats and knurl the guides (if you can find somebody that actually knows how to do this anymore)
Surface flywheel (manual trans)

[BigDan3131]

Originally Posted by blackedoutharley

Grind seats and knurl the guides (if you can find somebody that actually knows how to do this anymore)
Surface flywheel (manual trans)

What is this the 50's? Knurl the guides? Yikes skip that and unless the heads need the guides done along with all the other machine work just buy new heads like the Dart S/S heads.

Here http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/Dart-SB-C...44650/10002/-1

[GASoline71]

The machine shop will also magnaflux the block and heads to make sure they aren't cracked.

Gary

[Daze57]

new freeze plugs (brass)

[Captainfab]

Before you order any parts, you need to have the machine shop check the block and crank first. Then you will know what bore size of pistons, and under size on the bearings you will need.

Thank you for your service, and be safe over there

[blackedoutharley]

Yes you can buy new heads for in some cases less than what it cost to rebuild them. Knurling guides is fine if done right. At some point they do need to be replaced though.

I guess working in my dads machine shop has left an impression on me for the old school ways of doing some things. What can I say?

[68gmsee]

Nothing wrong with knurling the guides if the shop has the equipment and they know what to do. I've seen some really nice work before.

Re. the rebuild: One important lesson I learned a long time ago: taking short cuts to save money now will come back to cost you later.

As mentioned above don't buy the pistons until you have a "reliable" shop check it out. It may be that you need to bore it out .010 or all the way to .060 if the cylinders are way out of round. Just never know.

A good shop will do all that's necessary to get the engine ready. A few years ago I was quoted $850 for a complete long block rebuild. I'm sure it's gone up some in the last year or so, but considering all the labor and parts involved -not to mention tools needed -sometimes it's best to take it in.

If you just want to learn how to rebuild an engine, buy a junker at a later date and build it up.

[srmedic]

Thanks for the help. I think I'll take the advice of getting it done right and not cutting any corners. I have a set of double hump heads that I'm going to get worked on as well unless the SS Dart heads mentioned about would be just as good? They came with the engine and they seem to be fine. A friend told me that the engine or the heads haven't been machined before. I guess I'll find out when I bring them in. Hopefully the cylinder walls are not too worn out.

[blackedoutharley]

If you end up spending more than $500 to have the heads done, including valves and springs just buy new ones. The Dart heads are very good but there are others available as well.

[BigDan3131]

I have a set of 461X heads and while they are fine for a resto build or just by having them. Having heads with bolt holes will make any upgrade pulley wise[serpentine] later on a breeze.

[rickpilgrim]

I have learned over the years that if you want to "blueprint" it then grind everything you want. However know this- decking the block and surfacing the heads? Why do this if you didn't have a blown gasket issue?
Resize the rods and bore the main bearing saddles? No spun bearing why bother and change the distance from the cam to the crank?
Bottom line- if your GM 350 gave you 100K or more miles in your truck why change EVERY dimension that GM engineers spent years perfecting to give you a good engine?
After 8 engines rebuilt the "machine everything" way and getting only 55-70K miles out of them in our yard care trucks and paying around $1800-2600 for sb chevy for each) we went the do whats needed (suggested by my current machinest who does EVERY engine for the Corvette Club of America) and am still spending $1400-1800 but 98 350 votec has 136K miles on crank kit, bore, hot tank, cam bearing, frost plug, oil pump, valve job and bronze guides with pc seals and pinned rocker studs. The 350 in the 82 was done very similiar and allready has 82K on it with clean oil and uses 1/2 quart of oil every 2600 mi and that one turns 3200 rpm @ 65 and is always towing something.
IMO if your rebuilding a basically stock engine check everything, machine only whats needed, get good quality parts and don't listen to the "you need to align bore the block as I found 2 bearings that were worn unevenly" my response was Those misaligned bearings went 136K mi so why do I need this, Thanks for your time and find different shop.