????? for big lift truck pros

[bakerboys]

Have posted before about roaring noise in my truck but only when on the gas pedal when I let off gas it stops..My question is does this sound right. I took it to.a driveshaft.shop they said.my angles are off bad and that they will mill my blocks to turn rearend up and put a CV joint in driveshaft for $650.00 BUT that it will still roar because my pinion gear that connects to driveshaft is messed up. Any ideas. I don't want to pay that much if i still have to rebuild rear end to. Any help.would be great. Thanks
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[bakerboys]

Sorry 1985 Chevy k20 6 inch lift 37 inch tires
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[thinair]

You can buy new rear blocks that are already angled for alot cheaper than someone milling the ones that you have.

[bakerboys]

Ok what about play in the steering. My wheel is turned 90 degrees to go straight
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[thinair]

Its turned all the time? That you would fix by adjusting the drag link. If it is just play, I would be checking all of your joints/ends to see if they are worn out. If they are ok, then your steering gear is probablly just worn out and needs replaced. They do sell a rebuild kit for the box, I have never done one, and from what I have heard, just easier to replace it. Good used/non leaking ones aren't that hard to find.
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[thinair]

And for just the 6" you shouldn't need a cv on the rear shaft. After you get the blocks in I would be checking the pinion bearing. Alittle time consuming, but overall pretty easy to replace.
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[special-K]

Thinair is right. Just buy angled blocks and no need for a CV joint. I think you could get by with a non-tapered block,even. I think you pinion bearing is just worn out...maybe more things in the differential,too. Like the carrier bearings. The next thing that will happen if you don't fix those is you'll end up damaging the ring & pinion gears from poor alignment due to bearing wear. Not trying to alarm you,just advising you put your money into the differential. I actually believe by tilting a rear axle to compensate for a lift could tend to cause premature pinion bearing failure due to less lubrication. Maybe the oil gets slung up well enough to not matter at that angle,but common sense leads me to believe it's a possibility. Plenty of people do it,but they never used to. I'm not sure it's been done long enough to show any problems. Just my thoughts and concerns,nothing I can say for sure.

[bakerboys]

Thanks
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[Hoods69BadBowTie]

A 6" lift is big but not huge. I don't think you need to change your setup. I would look at the rear drive shaft and see how bad it is actually angled. I would guess your ring and pinion are the noise causers from what your describing. I would check into that before worrying about blocks. Just my .02 cents.

[Big Tex]

I would check your rear u-joints first. I had a 6" lift with blocks on a k5, and had the same issue. It turned out to be a bad u-joint. Has the truck recently been lifted? If so, an alignment shop can fix the steering with an alignment. If the truck has been lifted for a while, then it's something else like mentioned above. I ask because when I installed my lift, the steering wheel was way off, and would only turn about half way one direction. And, the probably already worn u-joint, popped it's head up shortly after. The new angle on the driveshaft probably magnified it. Hope it helps.....

[bakerboys]

Guy I got truck from says it has a six.inch lift but I don't know this truck is huge I will try to post.a pic with.me beside it. It has 37 inch.tires on 17 inch.wheels
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[bakerboys]

Will have to load at home but I am 5 ft 9. And bottom of door is.at my waist
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[special-K]

The problem with your steering wheel is when it was lifted the drag link should have been extended. You need to set your front wheels straight ahead,disconnect the drag link at the pitman arm,count how many times your steering wheel turns lock to lock,come back 1/2 that to find center,and adjust the drag link's length to where it will bolt into the pitman arm. Be carefull to adjust both ends equally and watch how much thread is in the sleeve. It's possible the steering wheel can still be off a hair. Drive the truck first to be sure you had the wheels exactly straight when adjusting and,if not,readjust. Once you know you have equal turns right & left,and if your steering wheel is off a notch,pull the wheel and rotate a notch at a time till centered.

I guess I'd try replacing the u-joint first since it's inexpensive and could be worn as well...especially if it was not changed when lifted and/or there is wear in the pinion bearing. If that doesn't eliminate your problem I'd look at replacing the pinion bearing and inspecting the carrier bearings. Does it appear to have been leaking out the nose of the diff? A bad seal can cause low fluid and eventual bearing wear.

[mud slut 350]

sounds like your u joint. Mine did the same thing im only running a 4 inch lift but you shouldnt have to get a cv that just makes more moving parts and expensive to replace next time it s!@#s out. dump the blocks and do a shackle flip in the rear with 2" lift springs. it will ride better and tilt your axle without having to mill anything. If you trail ride its a lot better itll flex better and less axle wrap. blocks are horrible if your wheelin with the truck. for your steering look into a crossover setup from offroaddesign or sky manufacturing. the stock steering geometry blows and you will be able to turn sharper also. the roaring might be your pinion bearing also pull that diff cover off make sure theres fluid even in there and grab ahold of the pinion yoke and make sure it does not move at all if it does fix it asap or youll be lookin for a new rear axle.

[mud slut 350]

or just upgrade to 14bff and d60 since ur running 37s dont expect the 10 bolt to last very long trust me lived and learned helpd 2 other buddys do the same even though one was a "street queen" on 38s that 10 bolt didnt stand a chance lol.

[bakerboys]

Have a 14 bolt. 3/4 ton truck
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[Mr. 250r]

My 10 bolt went through hell and held up till I tried yanking a more than stuck truck too many times but otherwise it held my 38s fine and as for the 14bolt he said full floater you may have a semi floater I posted pics of both of them in one of your threads
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[mud slut 350]

3/4 ton is probably d44 front and 14bsf rear. yeah some 10 bolt last but every one ive had or seen went pretty quick with 35s one with 33s that just why i frown on them but if they work for you good on ya.