Rear End Questions

[LDO]

Well, I feel guilty about monopolizing Captainfab's PM inbox so I figured I'd give him a break and ask in the general forum.

I have a 64 12 bolt rearend that I'm planning on installing in my 57 3100. Before I do, I'd like to install fresh wheel axle bearings and seals. The guy at NAPA keeps asking me about H033 & H035 and I don't know exactly what it means. If anyone has the correct bearing and seal PNs that I can use, or cross into a NAPA #, I would be most greatful.

I also found this link here:
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

that explains all the drum brake components and order of assembly. Is this a good reference for my 64 components or are they different?

Thanks in advance.

[1963c-10]

The 12 bolt that you have should have the GM corp 8 7/8" rearend. The HO33/HO35 axle are the old style corp axles. I only have my 63 book in front of me, but will bring my 64 book in tomorrow if no one else pipes in.

[LDO]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

The 12 bolt that you have should have the GM corp 8 7/8" rearend. The HO33/HO35 axle are the old style corp axles. I only have my 63 book in front of me, but will bring my 64 book in tomorrow if no one else pipes in.

thanks, that's starting to make a little sense now. The notes on the NAPA website says... "w/ H033, H035 Axles,2nd Design" sounds like I have the 2nd design?

[Captainfab]

The HO33/35 designation refers to the 1/2 ton differentials used from the second design '55 thru the '62 model year. In '63 the 12 bolt ( 8-7/8" ring gear) was introduced, and in use in the C10's thru the '82 model year.....'79-'80 in the K10's. The bearings and seals will be the same from '63-'82 in a C10. The brakes will be the same from '63 thru about '75-'76, with the self adjusters starting in '66.

[63sbssbbw]

So,just to be clear on this Capt.,this is how I'm reading it
HO33 and HO35= '55 -'62.
'63 -'82= nothing to do with HO33/35.
The '63-'82 are referred to as 8 7/8 corporate.
Bearings and seals the same for pre '69 and post '71 despite the difference in axle length.
Correct?
I,too,have been shopping for rear diff parts and came across the same confusion as LDO,I've foung lots of the HO33/35 stuff, but nothing that really positively identifies(matches) my '65 8 7/8 corp rear.
Great info to know Capt. Thank you.
T

[Rich 5150 69]

Hey welcome LDO, glad you could make it to this site, and hope you continue, great site for info on your truck, alias 406Rich.

[Captainfab]

That is correct. In my experience, all the parts for the '63-'82 truck 12 bolts are interchangeable. Not just bearings and seals, but gears, carriers, brakes, etc. A couple of things to look out for though, are the 17 spline axles used in '63 and '64, and of course the different length axles starting in late '70.

Originally Posted by 63sbssbbw

So,just to be clear on this Capt.,this is how I'm reading it
HO33 and HO35= '55 -'62.
'63 -'82= nothing to do with HO33/35.
The '63-'82 are referred to as 8 7/8 corporate.
Bearings and seals the same for pre '69 and post '71 despite the difference in axle length.
Correct?
I,too,have been shopping for rear diff parts and came across the same confusion as LDO,I've foung lots of the HO33/35 stuff, but nothing that really positively identifies(matches) my '65 8 7/8 corp rear.
Great info to know Capt. Thank you.
T

[LDO]

Thanks Rich.

And thanks to everyone else who posts up answers and advice. Like I always say, "there is value in knowledge but passing it on is priceless!"

Semper Fi!
LDO

[aerotruk63]

Link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/normanm...eat=directlink

[aerotruk63]

63 had backing plates that were pressed onto the spline of the differential.

[LDO]

One more question here. My rear has what appears to be a dust/dirt shield between the back of the axle flange and the grease seal. The wheel studs actually go thru it too. When I removed mine, it looked as if there was some sort of gasket between the face of this dust shield and the back of the axle flange????

[LDO]

Also
How do you know if th axles are good to go?
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[LDO]

Here is what they look like. Nothing leaked or had excessive play before the teardown...

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[Rich 5150 69]

You`re good to go..just re-install seals, and maybe bearings.....

[Rich 5150 69]

I used a slide hammer with an old set of hub puller jaws inverted to grab the inside of the bearing, and yes there is a lip to allow the bearing to go in only so far.

[LDO]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

I used a slide hammer with an old set of hub puller jaws inverted to grab the inside of the bearing, and yes there is a lip to allow the bearing to go in only so far.

Should I be able to feel it with my finger inside there and tell where the lip is and the bearing is?

I don't want the puller jaws to latch on to the wrong lip (if that's even possible)....

[63sbssbbw]

Not possible LDO the lip should only be high enough to stop the outer part of the bearing,also your pulling away from it.
T

[LDO]

Thanks.

I will re-attack tomorrow with a slide hammer that carries a little more ass.

[Captainfab]

I can see some wear on the axle. Can you feel a difference in the diameter LDO?

[LDO]

Capt. - I will check it today after work and I clean it up a little. I hope I don't need new axles, that would suck!

But if I do, should I go ahead and upgrade to 30 spline (w/new spiders)??

any recommendations on brand/companies, etc...

[LDO]

Tonight I came home with a proper bearing removal tool rented/borrowed from Autozone and it worked perfectly. Got the bearing out and the shim/washer behind it. Thanks to all who gave me the gouge on the removal.

I am pretty sure the axles are salvageable. I'll hit them with some scotchbrite and see what happens.

[63sbssbbw]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I can see some wear on the axle. Can you feel a difference in the diameter LDO?

.
Capt,Assuming that this is a wear spot...Any fixing it?,or is the axle toast?
.
What about spray welding(cold) and remachining,,A viable option or?
T

[Captainfab]

You can get those 'axle saver' bearings that move the bearing outboard the width of the bearing. I don't think welding and machining the axles would be very cost effective. That would probably cost more than new replacement axles.

Originally Posted by 63sbssbbw

.
Capt,Assuming that this is a wear spot...Any fixing it?,or is the axle toast?
.
What about spray welding(cold) and remachining,,A viable option or?
T

[orgalmeister]

Just guessing here but if someone had been in there before is it possible these are not the original axles? and they were shimmed out to make up the difference?

[bama63]

the only thing the shims could possibly do is move the bearing outward on the axle surface as the c-clips and cross pin set the axle end play. as for oil flow the axle pulls the lube as it turns (like a barber pole) so they should lube fine but...the oil could get trapped between the seal and bearing and not return properly so as captainfab stated i would definitely drill the 1/4 inch hole in the bottom of the shim if i installed them.