5.3 Rebuild... need some opinions

[JNJchev77]

I am in the process of teardown and rebuild of my 5.3/LM7. This motor came for an 03 Tahoe with about 120K on it. It's going into my 77 swb c10 and I just want some opinions on how far to go....

Basically what I'm asking is, do I really need to take it to a machine shop? I'm basically doing a stock rebuild, except for LS6 cam and springs (and pushrods) and possibly an LS6 intake down the road. The motor has no unusual wear at all, looks very well maintained, etc. etc... I do plan on using all new ARP bolts for main caps and connecting rods, as well as all new bearing, seals, rings, gaskets, oil pump, lifters. This is my first LS rebuild, I've done SBC rebuilds without machining and haven't had any problems... but these motors are new to me.

What are your opinions on this?

Edit - This will not be a daily. Mostly a weekend warrior, trips to Cali and Vegas occasionally.

[skoffice]

I'm doing the exact same setup right now in my 71 but my 5.3 has 50k. I just put an adjustable timing set and new oil pan gasket on and I'm going to see how she runs as is. If I were tearing it down as far as you are planning though, you might as well take it in. For probably an extra $500 you can pretty much have a guaranteed new engine at that point. Have the block decked and torque-plate honed, and a quick stone grind valve job and surface the heads. With it being completely apart, its the best opportunity to get a perfect fresh runner. Do it once, do it right I always say.

[clinebarger]

The crank will NEED to be turned .010/.010. GM hasnt used "standard" bearings in a long time. If you look at the bottem of the bearings you will find .0002, .0003, etc. etc. If they ALL say "STD" you can get by without turning the crank, But Ive never seen that be the case.

[JNJchev77]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

The crank will NEED to be turned .010/.010. GM hasnt used "standard" bearings in a long time. If you look at the bottem of the bearings you will find .0002, .0003, etc. etc. If they ALL say "STD" you can get by without turning the crank, But Ive never seen that be the case.

Good to know... I wish the books would inform newbie's of that. Thanks!

[clinebarger]

If you havent already tore it down, You may want to leave to bottem end alone. A good valve job, Valve springs, Resurface the heads, Fel-Pro gasket set. 120K is not much on a iron block 5.3L.

Be sure to replace to the oil pump to pick-up tube O-ring.

[JNJchev77]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

If you havent already tore it down, You may want to leave to bottem end alone. A good valve job, Valve springs, Resurface the heads, Fel-Pro gasket set. 120K is not much on a iron block 5.3L.

Be sure to replace to the oil pump to pick-up tube O-ring.

Thought about going this route, reason being this truck will eventually go to my son (that's the plan anyway, this truck will stay in the family), and I figured we can just pull the motor for rebuild when he's older and ready!

I'm checking with various machine shops on costs and what not to find out if it's really worth it for me to take it down all the way.

Oil pump and o0rings are on the way

[gringoloco]

A compression check would be a good measure of need to rebuild. I would say your plan is reasonable IF you take the time to check rod and main clearances.
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[79shortbed]

I would've said get a different cam than the LS6, but anything would be an upgrade over stock!

[JNJchev77]

Originally Posted by 79shortbed

I would've said get a different cam than the LS6, but anything would be an upgrade over stock!

Actually, the LS6 stuff I picked up for cheap (brand new), couldn't pass it up lol, probably going with this cam, CheaTR v.3 - http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...-Cams_944.html and recommended springs.