window seals dont "Seal" window on exterior, any ideas?

[darkone]

Hey all, my window seals for the roll up windows dont really seal the window, the flap is running down into the door so any water will end up inside the door. Just wondering if you guys have had similar problems or found a solution for such a problem. Oversized seals perhaps?
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[master 1969 c10]

Hi I got a guy here in columbus,ohio that been a roung along time he may be able to help u what I was talking to about was rebuilding our vent widows at $45 per vent + u buy seal great deal.But his name is chuck miller 1-614-890-4527 it might be worth a call. Doug


Hey master 1969 c10 ...
Check out the Yellow Springs Truck show. A bunch of us will be there. Info in the Ohio forums.

Ok...back to topic ...

[Lee H]

Often times the repro seals take a few weeks to get worked in an seal properly.
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[dan42]

They will always leak into the door a little. It's 40 plus year old engineering.
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[darkone]

a little, sure, but my rubber window seal folds down inside the window.... theres a small pond in the door...

[webfoot]

Pretty sure they weren't designed as seals, just there to keep the windows from rattling and to squeegie some of the rain off. There are holes in the bottom of the doors to let the water out. The cars of the era have plastic sheets stuck to the doors for this purpose since the door panels are made of cardboard.

[darkone]

thats super weak... looks like ill be pulling dynamat this week.... shiza!

[GMCPaul]

If you remove your vent window you will find there is a metal strap underneath it that is used to join the upper inner door skin to the upper outer door skin, this strap breaks and causes the door to spread wider at the base of the window opening causing the problem you are having. So remove the vent window and pull the inner & outer top of door skin back together and repair the strap by welding it back together. Then the outer rubber scraper Will seal to the door glass as it was designed to. GM did realize that it was a problem by 1972 and used a screw directly under the vent window to hold this area together rather than just relying on the metal strap, they also realized that the rubber seal would not keep ALL moisture out so they put weep holes in the bottom of the doors so if you've covered these with dynomat you only need to make holes in the dynomat where the weep holes are to allow any trapped moisture to escape by draining through the weep hole so just open the holes that you blocked and enjoy the extra quietness the dynomat gives you.
GMCPaul

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by GMCPaul

If you remove your vent window you will find there is a metal strap underneath it that is used to join the upper inner door skin to the upper outer door skin, this strap breaks and causes the door to spread wider at the base of the window opening causing the problem you are having. So remove the vent window and pull the inner & outer top of door skin back together and repair the strap by welding it back together. Then the outer rubber scraper Will seal to the door glass as it was designed to. GM did realize that it was a problem by 1972 and used a screw directly under the vent window to hold this area together rather than just relying on the metal strap, they also realized that the rubber seal would not keep ALL moisture out so they put weep holes in the bottom of the doors so if you've covered these with dynomat you only need to make holes in the dynomat where the weep holes are to allow any trapped moisture to escape by draining through the weep hole so just open the holes that you blocked and enjoy the extra quietness the dynomat gives you.
GMCPaul

Hey GMCPaul,

For guys like me without welding skills, is it possible to add a screw to a 1970 door to fix this problem without welding? Do you have a pic of the metal strap we're looking for and where it joins the door skins?

My door is separated so clearly my strap has broken but I can't weld so I need to find a way to fix it some other way.

Thanks for the help!

[GMCPaul]

Originally Posted by camrycurt

Hey GMCPaul,

For guys like me without welding skills, is it possible to add a screw to a 1970 door to fix this problem without welding? Do you have a pic of the metal strap we're looking for and where it joins the door skins?

My door is separated so clearly my strap has broken but I can't weld so I need to find a way to fix it some other way.

Thanks for the help!

I do not have a picture of the metal strip but I'll describe it from memory so measurements will not be exact.
its approx. 1/2" wide and runs straight down from the inside of door approx. a inch then makes a 90 degree bend towards the outside of the door and is then approx. 2-2 1/2" long then it bends upward at a 90 degree angle and attaches to the outside door skin.
This strap is located directly behind the division bar under the vent window and you can not miss seeing it if you remove the vent window and look down inside the door.
Without repairing the strap a screw would only be a temporary fix, I'll explain why temp. in a second. You could with the vent window out locate this strap and just above the bend on the strap where it heads towards the outside door skin mark on the door this location and drill a hole through inside of door then through the strap then thru the bend on opposite side. This would require a very long bit ( you might be able to drill these holes from the top opening by center punching a drilling through straps at a angle from above to make holes but it would be hard to make sure they align properly) after drilling holes you would then need a clip for screw to thread into installed on the outer downward angled portion of the strap aligned with the hole you drilled so you can tighten the screw properly. Now since the strap has not been repaired even if you now run a screw from the inside of door through the inner strap across top of strap and threaded into the clip for screw on outward strap nothing will prevent the strap from wanting to bend inward over time since its not being held apart by the continous strap.
Without a welder you could always try cutting something the same size as the original strap then use a body panel adhesive to afix the new strap to the old using the adhesive.
But if it were me without a welder I would either remove windows on door and drive to a welder for repair or if not running remove doors and take in for welding.
THEN add the screw. When adding the screw use a clip on outer downward flange of strap. Drill hole larger diameter screw, for finish at door you could just either use a beveled washer trim under the screw. They sell these at ACE, Lowes, and other misc. hardware stores.
Hope it helps!
Paul @ GMCPauls

[camrycurt]

Yeah, I figured an easy fix was probably a long shot. Oh well, now that I know what to look for I'll poke around and maybe will be able to come up with something that will work.

Thanks for the help GMCPaul!

[70STOVEBOLT]

THAT is what the screw is for on the 72 doors!! Never knew that. Thanks GMCPaul!

[Billett]

Can't say I've noticed that my door is separated, but it can't hurt to know what to look for since I imagine it probably has haha

[Billett]

Thanks!

[StupudMunkee]

Realize this is an old thread, but I wanted to find out if this is the "strap" that is being referred to? Doors on my 70 aren't pulled in enough to press the rubbers to the glass. I took a photo of the inside of the door through a hole cut by the previous owner.

[sboris]

Originally Posted by StupudMunkee

Realize this is an old thread, but I wanted to find out if this is the "strap" that is being referred to? Doors on my 70 aren't pulled in enough to press the rubbers to the glass. I took a photo of the inside of the door through a hole cut by the previous owner.

Yes your "strap" is clearly broken when zoomed in. Will definitely cause the door to spread.

[hpcgmc]

Hey StupudMunkee, did you ever find out if the part in your picture was the "strap" that GMCPAUL was talking about? I'm about to start on replacing my window channels and was going to check on this while I'm inside the doors.

[StupudMunkee]

No, but based on the look of the metal it seems like the only thing it could be. This is an old thread so I don't expect much response.

[LockDoc]

-
Here is a thread I posted with some pictures of the metal strap.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=633866

LockDoc

[hpcgmc]

Thanks Lockdoc, those pics are great! I'll know what to look for when I dig into my doors.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by hpcgmc

Thanks Lockdoc, those pics are great! I'll know what to look for when I dig into my doors.

No problem. Give a shout out when you get ready to disassemble your doors, there are a couple of threads on how to remove the inside parts without damaging anything.

LockDoc

[hpcgmc]

Thanks LockDoc. I'm starting on the window disassembly now. I got the wind wing out, but thought I'd hold off on the inside parts until I find the threads you mention about removing the inside without damaging anything. Surprisingly, the strap on my door is still in good shape (at least on the passenger door I started on), but I might have a welder run an extra bead across it when I'm having some other welding done.

[LockDoc]

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'67-'72 Chevy & GMC vent window removal.

Remove the inside door handle and window riser handle.

Remove the door panel.

Remove the inner and outer window sweeps. (You can’t pull the wing window back to get it out of the door frame with them in place)

Pull the door window channel out of the door frame at the top by the wing window. (You can’t pull the wing window back to get it out of the door frame with it in place)

Remove the two ¼” machine screws at the bottom of the "rear" window channel and the ¼” machine screw from the the top of the "rear" window channel by the door latch. You can leave the channel in the door but push it back in the corner.

(If you are going to replace the window felt channel pull it all out starting up by the top of the wing window)

Roll the door window down and slide it back away from the wing window.

Remove the three small flat head screws that go through the angled part of the door frame and into the wing window, then remove the two ¼” machine screws from the bottom holes in the inner door that screw into the bottom bracket of the wing window.

From the inside of the vehicle tip the wing window back and pull it up a ways, then rotate it so that the bottom mounting bracket will slide out of the opening when you slide it all the way up and tip it toward you.


Re-assembling the door

There are a couple of different thoughts on this but here is how I assemble mine.

Make sure you have the new felt window channel in the wing window. But do not install the felt channel around the top and down inside the rear of the door yet.

Insert the rear door glass guide/channel into the door but don’t bolt it in place yet.

Install the door latch remote and window riser mechanisms if they have been removed.. (make sure the roller is in the track on the inside of the door)

With the window riser arms part way down (horizontal position) install the window. (you have to slide it toward the front to get it started into the roller guides) After you have the window installed roll it down, and slide it back toward the door latch. (make sure it doesn’t slide out of the track)

Insert the wing window lower bracket into the window opening from the inside of the door, about where the window and wing window meet. After it is inside the door rotate the wing window to it’s correct orientation and slide it down into place.

Put the three (I think) small flat head screws through the angled part of the door frame and into the wing window, then put the two ¼” machine screws through the bottom holes in the door inner panel and into the bottom bracket of the wing window.

Now slide the door window forward into the wing window channel.

Put the door window felt channel into the door frame starting at the top of the wing window and work your way around to the back. Be sure and push up on the felt channel as you go around the corner. Do not put it into the inside of the door yet.

Put the rear glass guide/channel up into place and put the ¼” machine screw in at the top by the door latch but do not tighten it up.

Insert the felt window channel down inside the door and press it into the remainder of the door frame and rear glass guide/channel. Push the rear glass guide/channel in against the window glass and put the two ¼” machine screws through the bottom holes in the door inner panel into the bottom bracket of the glass guide/channel. Now tighten all of the machine screws up and try the window to see how it works.

Put your new inner and outer window sweeps on and you are done. You may have to trim them slightly for length.

I hope I haven’t forgotten any steps in the process and if I have I hope someone points them out.

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by hpcgmc

Thanks LockDoc. I'm starting on the window disassembly now. I got the wind wing out, but thought I'd hold off on the inside parts until I find the threads you mention about removing the inside without damaging anything. Surprisingly, the strap on my door is still in good shape (at least on the passenger door I started on), but I might have a welder run an extra bead across it when I'm having some other welding done.

Actually the wing window should come out last... The door window should not need to come out to replace the weather stripping parts. Just slide it back.

I just re-posted the instructions here, that way you can copy and paste it into a word document and print it out.

Have any questions let me know....

LockDoc

[slikside]

sub'd.