Help! Putting in A Pillar Patch

[Jakes-66-K10]

I'm really discouraged, and not sure where to go with this repair. Very disappointed in the quality of patch panels, and what it takes to get them in...

I'm worried that the floor pan and lower cowl piece I've installed are incorrectly aligned. I had to do some cutting and reshaping just to get them to match up with each other. Now I am finding that when test fitting other pieces that connect to these, something is way off.

First, is the lower A pillar patch, which I've been trimming away to get to fit. If I align the top to the A pillar, the bottom sticks out half an inch.

[Jakes-66-K10]

If I align the bottom half of this piece, then the top half sticks out by a half inch.

[Jakes-66-K10]

These pics shows the alignment of the bottom floor brace (which was left alone, and in factory position) with the floor pan and lower cowl in position. You can also see where I've been trimming away at the patch piece in an attempt to get it to fit better.

[Jakes-66-K10]

I did mount the right side fender for a test fit to the lower fender brace. I can't tell if the brace I have is bent or if it's because the brace connects to the floor pan and it's the cause - but something is out of alignment here too.

[Jakes-66-K10]

Can anyone tell me if this even looks correct? Does this inner piece need to be trimmed to fit flush with the floor pan, it seems my old one also sat overtop of the floorpan - so I'm at a loss why things are so off...

[jonzcustomshop]

might want to hang the door back on there and make sure the rocker/floor pan are not too far in.
if they are in the right spot, then, it looks like you might have to do some trimming to make the patch fit.

and it is alot of work, but you might want to hang the fender/inner, and rad support to make sure everything lines up.

some friends of mine are doing a 56 chev hardtop, and they hung the doors and clip, and sheet metal screwed all the patches toghther before final welding, there was a bit of trimming and massaging of the patch panels to get it all to fit right before they started welding

[Alan's Classic]

An old saying in the body shop is "the sheet metal won't lie" Jonz' is right, at this point you need to let the sheet metal speak. It's hard for us to see what has or hasn't been done. When I did mine they didn't a post patches for the 60-66, I had to use a 67-72 and make it work. Hang in there.

[Alan's Classic]

Have you done anything to the drivers side? Maybe you can take some references off it.

[Jakes-66-K10]

That's a great idea, thanks guys. Drivers side is untouched, so far measurements on the passenger side seem to match up with drivers side. I do have the front clip mounted (all but the outer fenders) and so far everything there seems ok. I will plan on hanging the door tomorrow and see how things shape up.

Thanks again.

[awbrown]

It looks like you still have the original cab mount in it .. so you can assume that the angle of the inner rocker panel is correct , so I would guess you got a bum panel , I would order another a pillar patch from another source and see if it is a better fit ...I ran into this with both my trucks , only to find out that the panel was not stamped right and the inner rocker panel was shorter at one end than the other...

[CdM]

most of the aftermarket panels are off... They dont fit well at all. just have to work them untill they do. When I did mine inner rockers/ pillar supports.. most of the lines were way off some bolt holes worked and some didn't. I like that idea with the sheet screws. Have to give that a run on the next truck.

[Jakes-66-K10]

So I have hung the door, and overall the fit looks pretty good between the front and back door pillars. It seems to be a little tight down in the floor area I've been working on (slight touch instead of a gap like the rest of the inner rocker) so it may indicate that I need to take this area down a little bit.

In hanging the door, I have an all new problem though... The latch stuck. I have spent the last two days trying everything I can think of. Removed the hing bolts, lifting, tapping, pulling, pushing, prying, cussing, nothing seems to work - my door seems to be permattached now.

Is it a normal part of the restoration process to wanna take a shotgun breaching round to your passenger side door?

Any help would be appreciated.

[jonzcustomshop]

yes.
I had a door stick once, never did figure out why...., but laying on the seat and kicking it out finally got it open

[Jakes-66-K10]

Did you bend anything? Been taking a rubber mallet to it and even tapping firm but lightly I worry I am gonna permanently dent the inside panel.
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[CdM]

If the door is rusting out.. shotgun might just do the trick lol good luck

[Jakes-66-K10]

Originally Posted by CdM

If the door is rusting out.. shotgun might just do the trick lol good luck

The door is in great shape, no rust and it's not cut out for speakers (like so many others). I am trying to avoid damage to the door, but sometimes demolition ideas sound very tempting.

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Might try removing the inside door panel, take the outside handle off and see if you can trip the latch from inside the door.

I have removed the inside panel, and can clearly see the latch mechanism. The outside door button is pushing on the latch as normal, and I can see it release a "hook" from the latch itself. The inner door latch also operates correctly, I can see it also working and unlatching like it should. The door lock mechanism (handle in down position) also works, and unlocks as expected.

I have examined how latch works on the other door, and can't see a reason why anything is stuck. It seems everything that acts as a latch I can see physically unlatch. It's almost as if the part that rests on the door striker plate just won't move anymore.

[1963c-10]

Might try removing the inside door panel, take the outside handle off and see if you can trip the latch from inside the door.

[1963c-10]

Has to just be super tight. I would give it a budge with the bottom of your feet where the inside panel is. Has to come loose if the latch is working, its just crammed in there. Get a bottle of sparay lubrication (whatever your choice is) and spray the hell out of the door where the striker is and some inside pressure should get it open. I would remove the striker once open get the door to open/close properly and get the door alignment before reinstalling the striker.

[jonzcustomshop]

I didn't dent anything, gave it a good kick right by the window in the inside . I can't remember all the details, but the latch was working, the door was just jammed, and stuck.

[padresag]

put a block and jack underneath and just take the pressure off. the cab may have sagged a little as you removed the rocker and such. a reason as to welding braces in before removing that stuff???? perhaps
ron

[BR3W CITY]

I ran into some similar problems doing my outer rockers and door bottoms. Patches look to be the right shape, but somehow are 1/8" "large" meaning they seem to fit OVER the old metal, better than IN PLACE of the old metal. We spent time with the cutting wheel, welder and a good hammer n dolly set. Nothing is perfect on these old trucks, and god knows what has happened to them over the years.

And for reference, sometimes comparing sides won't actually help lol, my truck required different fitment changes to repair the same rust, on both sides with the same panels. Factory tolerances were generous, add to that 40+ years of wear.

I'd jack up the cab a bit, make sure everything is level and that there isn't any pressure or sag on the area in question. FWIW, your patch might never LOOK right while being held in place. I had to tack, trim, hammer, tack, repeat. After hours of massaging, it turns out fine. I just picked one important area at a time i.e. start by aligning the curve; tack, hammer, and move on a bit.

Where did you get your patches? the ones I had to massage the most came from C_____c P____ts (I don't to blame them, the service was great just not the patch)

[Jakes-66-K10]

After a week away (needed time off from the project, I was too frustrated) I was FINALLY able to get the door to open today. Had to sit inside and push hard with my legs, but it finally popped open. Thanks everyone for your help. Now to get back to the original problem of these patch panels not fitting...

[MoreWorkToDo]

does the A-pillar patch align in a straight angle, meaning, is the inner rocker panel completely vertical? my metal is pretty well gone. when i'm aligning everything it suggests that the inner rocker panel kicks out a little bit, implying the A-pillar patch much kick out at the bottom as well. It is hard to tell from all the photos on the forum, but it makes it look like everything is straight.

[Alan's Classic]

It should match the angles of the main floor supports at the a post and rear support. Hope it helps.

[MoreWorkToDo]

at some point in my pickups life someone cut the outer half of the cab supports off. getting any of this aligned has been a real treat!