Pop, miss & pinging-Help

[Slow Build]

A couple of weeks ago I sold my DD so I've been driving my 64. Other than aggravating my back it's been doing fine. Late last week I drove about 20 miles to Walnut Creek. There is a pretty steep grade on Kirker Pass Road and it did just fine going over there. On the way back the truck started making a popping sound like it was backfiring through the carb along with the instantaneous loss of power but it made it over and ran just fine the rest of the way (about ten more miles). The next day I drove to Concord over Willow Pass (not as steep but slightly longer) and on the way it did the same thing. Once I got over the hill it ran fine again the rest of the way there and back. I got in it today and it has a miss. When I try to accelerate at all it starts pinging real bad.

Any ideas on a diagnosis.

It has a two year old HEI distributor that I bought at a Goodguys show. I have no timing marks but top dead center seems to be at the 12 0'clock position. It looks pretty much like where I set it so I don't think the timing slipped but I could be wrong ( didn't disconnect the vacuum when I just checked it.

Where do you think I should I start.

[Rich 5150 69]

As you said start with the obvious, plugs ,wires, dizzy, then carb, crap in the filter, float level, sinse you said the HEI was new I was going to say look at advance springs in the dizzy, but that would be a long shot.

[64shortbox]

Slow Build, if you still have your old distributor I would put that back in and run it down and back up Kirker Pass. I know you just bought your HEI distributor but that New distributor may be junk. Those $35.00 HEI distributors they sell on eBay are junk, yours might be too. I know exactly what you're talking about going up & down Kirker Pass. I used to live in Clayton and worked in Pittsburg off California St. I had go up and down Kirker Pass every day I worked. Years ago I had a 62 Poontiac that acted exactly as you described, I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one and no more problems. I would check your distributor first.

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by FAT TONY

Sounds kind of how mine was acting up and for me i just cleaned the fuel lines ,fuel tank, and put new inline fuel filters and its seemed to stop the problem

I did just use Lucas Injector cleaner in this tank of gas. I could have dislodged some crud.

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

I know you just bought your HEI distributor but that New distributor may be junk.

That thought has crossed my mind.

I'll have to do a full diagnosis in a few days. I think I'm buying another DD tomorrow.

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

I was going to say look at advance springs in the dizzy, but that would be a long shot.

Maybe not that much of a long shot. I change to lighter springs for faster advance when I installed it. Sounds like an easy place to start.

[FAT TONY]

Sounds kind of how mine was acting up and for me i just cleaned the fuel lines ,fuel tank, and put new inline fuel filters and its seemed to stop the problem

[FAT TONY]

also if it sat for a while with an empty tank of gas it could have caused surface rust on the inside and when you filled it up it made a stew of rust particles which are now getting into your carb thats why i like the inline fuel filter mainly the clear ones cause you can see if anything is there that shouldnt



i remember the first couple of test drives were hard turned a 10 minute drive into a 3 hour mission i just kept breaking down every couple of feet and having to get out and blow all the stuff out of my fuel line after that adventure i learned my lesson on keeping the tank clean

[Slow Build]

I've driven it at least a few times a month since I got it in 2009 so I don't think it's from sitting.

[FAT TONY]

maybe you let the fuel level in your tank get a little low and got some stuff in your lines and filter?

[HEI451]

Info for all.

Sometime in 1986, Chevy moved the timing mark scale on most of their small blocks, because where it has been traditionally been, on the driver side, about 2:00 o'clock, it couldn't be seen past all the accessory brackets. The new position was in the middle of the top of the timing cover, and behind the long water pumps, so a timing light could be shown down onto the scale directly from above, in between the water pump and timing cover.

Vacuum advance selection, setup and sourcing is also critical. A stop of some sort, home made, or Crane 99619-1, should be affixed to the vacuum advance mounting bracket, on the diaphragm side of the pin, to stop the pin in its travel, NOT preload the pin from the rear mounting screw. .086 pull pin travel will give 8 crankshaft degrees, .110 will give 10 crankshaft degrees, .130 will give 12.

Vacuum advance souring on every engine that DOES NOT have a functional EGR valve should also be exclusively full manifold vacuum, NOT PORTED. Setup should be a combination if initial timing, and the full manifold sourced vacuum advance timing. Engines like between 20 and 22 degrees if idle timing. Example: initial, 12 deg/BTDC, vacuum advance gives 8, idle total, 20 deg/BTDC when engines is idling.

Engines with a fully functional EGR valve in place, should have 12 degrees of vacuum timing, NO MORE, and, ported vacuum advance souring is OK for these engines only.

[Slow Build]

I might have to diagnose this a little faster than I thought. The DD 2001 Chevy Tahoe I just bought is a POS.
AC worked fine on the way home except for the last 4 miles. Had it recharged. Blowing hot the next day.
Change engine oil light came on first morning at home. I had it changed and there is coolant in the oil.
The fuel gauge just doesn't know what to do.
Dead battery after 4 days. Won't take a charge.

I better get to work on the 64

[Slow Build]

I had a little time today after going motor shopping for the new DD. The timing is close enough. I'm getting spark out of the dizzy for all cylinders (the headers make it hard to pull the boots and plugs) but the headers aren't getting hot on cylinders 4,5 & 6 (warm but not hot). My back is on the war path (and my fingers kinda hurt because of the other 5 header pipes) so bending over to pull the plugs isn't happening today but it seems kinda strange that three cylinders would suddenly go down. The wires are fairly new so I don't think that's the problem but when I can bend over without screaming I'll look into farther.

[storm9c1]

After checking the obvious plugs and wires on the cold cylinders, your next check should be under your valve covers. You could have a cam going flat........