s10 front clip on a AD frame

[Chris.]

I'll start off by saying sorry because I'm sure it's been asked a million times before but I'm new here and to AD trucks, I looked around on here and found some info but not exactly what I was looking for. I just got a 50' 5 window and I want it to be mostly restored but also bagged. I am not new to bagged trucks or to major frame mods so I'm hoping for some pictures of AD frames with s10 front clips and some insider tips. Any pics and info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

[mknittle]

they are too narrow

[Chris.]

Bummer. I thought I saw a few people mention that they had done it. I have access to a SWB s10 frame. But I have no desire to do a full frame swap plus I think the SWB is the wrong frame for a full swap. I guess you mean the frame rails are too narrow?

Thanks for the info
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[Indian113]

If your gonna clip it a Gbody clip is closer to the right width. You can use a S10 but you need spacers to get the right tire track or dished wheels. Just my opinion I could be wrong.

[Chris.]

Is that what guys who do full s10 frame swaps have to do?
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[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by Chris.

Is that what guys who do full s10 frame swaps have to do?
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Not everyone, if you look at the build pics of mine I'm not running spacers in the front. I may at some point in the future run 1" ones, but no big deal.

[sirwilliam]

I have 1.5" spacers in front and a s10 4x4 rearend on my s10 frame swap...

[S10Fan]

I'm running an S-10 chassis. Since my truck was going to have hubcaps and wide whites, I used deep dish wheels, Circle Racing 15X7 with 1" BS on the rear and 2" BS on the front. Had to redrill my rotors/axles for the bigger wheel studs required by the racing wheels. I also carry a similar spare that will fit the larger studs. The wheels were cheap, bought all four on "clearance", one chrome, two black, and one bare steel, for an average of 30.00 each. This was a "budget" build and I swear, it was more fun that any I've ever built. Looking for bargains proved to be a hobby as well.

I have a spare set of rotors and axles should I decide to change wheels and go with spacers. The billet spacers that are available today are a huge improvement over what was out there 20 years ago.

[Chris.]

Originally Posted by S10Fan

I'm running an S-10 chassis. Since my truck was going to have hubcaps and wide whites, I used deep dish wheels, Circle Racing 15X7 with 1" BS on the rear and 2" BS on the front. Had to redrill my rotors/axles for the bigger wheel studs required by the racing wheels. I also carry a similar spare that will fit the larger studs. The wheels were cheap, bought all four on "clearance", one chrome, two black, and one bare steel, for an average of 30.00 each. This was a "budget" build and I swear, it was more fun that any I've ever built. Looking for bargains proved to be a hobby as well.

I have a spare set of rotors and axles should I decide to change wheels and go with spacers. The billet spacers that are available today are a huge improvement over what was out there 20 years ago.

Is there a thread on here where I could see some pics of your 50?
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[mknittle]

The problem with spacers is they cause a week point and on the front wheels aren't a good place for that!!

[Chris.]

Thanks for the info guys I'll have to look into how the frame rails line up to see if maybe wideining the clip is an option
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[robin58]

Originally Posted by mknittle

The problem with spacers is they cause a week point and on the front wheels aren't a good place for that!!

I think that really depends on the type of spacer.

If you're using just a loose spacer that shortens the stud length I agree. But if you buy a high quality one that bolts to your existing studs and comes with studs to bolt your wheels to, then I think the weakness issue is not a concern. Added weight if you use a thick spacer is probably more of an issue at that point.

I've used Fred Goeske at wheeladapters to make some for me in the past to custom specs and have never had issues with them.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by robin58

I think that really depends on the type of spacer.

If you're using just a loose spacer that shortens the stud length I agree. But if you buy a high quality one that bolts to your existing studs and comes with studs to bolt your wheels to, then I think the weakness issue is not a concern. Added weight if you use a thick spacer is probably more of an issue at that point.

I've used Fred Goeske at wheeladapters to make some for me in the past to custom specs and have never had issues with them.

I agree.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by robin58

I think that really depends on the type of spacer.

If you're using just a loose spacer that shortens the stud length I agree. But if you buy a high quality one that bolts to your existing studs and comes with studs to bolt your wheels to, then I think the weakness issue is not a concern. Added weight if you use a thick spacer is probably more of an issue at that point.

I've used Fred Goeske at wheeladapters to make some for me in the past to custom specs and have never had issues with them.

Ford duallies have run OEM spacers in the front for years, with no concerns there.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Ford duallies have run OEM spacers in the front for years, with no concerns there.

All duillys do but they are bolted on ,it's the slide on ones that are not good.

[Chris.]

I'm sure there is some hacked up stuff out there. And the waste of money and time factor is why I wanted to ask around on here before I spend the money even though I can get this frame very cheap. I have done enough custom frame work on bagged trucks that I an confident that if this is a plausable route to go and I decide to do it , it will not be hacked
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[mr48chev]

I think the clip mates up to the stock frame pretty well. What is at issue is the actual tread width which is something that The S-10 frame swap guy have had to contend with on AD trucks from the get go. If you are going to run a reverse offset wheel it isn't a big issue but if you plan to run a no offset wheel the wheels set way back in the wheel wells. A lot of the S-10 swap guys seem to run the 20 or larger inch wheels and for them the narrow tread of the S-10 becomes an advantage rather than a disadvantage.

The G body tread width is slightly wider but the frame rails aren't much wider where you would cut them to mate them to the truck frame.

Either is still a better fit and easier swap than a Camaro or 77 and earlier Chevelle style stub. the front steer units from those are usually too wide in the tread width for AD trucks.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I think the clip mates up to the stock frame pretty well. What is at issue is the actual tread width which is something that The S-10 frame swap guy have had to contend with on AD trucks from the get go. If you are going to run a reverse offset wheel it isn't a big issue but if you plan to run a no offset wheel the wheels set way back in the wheel wells. A lot of the S-10 swap guys seem to run the 20 or larger inch wheels and for them the narrow tread of the S-10 becomes an advantage rather than a disadvantage.

The G body tread width is slightly wider but the frame rails aren't much wider where you would cut them to mate them to the truck frame.

Either is still a better fit and easier swap than a Camaro or 77 and earlier Chevelle style stub. the front steer units from those are usually too wide in the tread width for AD trucks.

I still don't like the way the camber is adjusted.

[mknittle]

on the other hand. On a pro street truck the narrow front end would look cool.
Som say the camaro front ends are too wode but there are guys making the wider 60 through 80s c10 front ends work. a lot has to do with wheel back spacing and the look you are after.
you are always going to get conflicting opinions on clips.Probably the best way to go is an after market front suspention. but us low buck guys use what we have

[mr48chev]

I've seen all too many cases where a guy ends up spending more money trying to make a cheap or free suspension setup work than he would have spent if he had just gone ahead and bought and aftermarket cross member and run factory Ford MII pieces. And don't come off with the "they are weaker" nonsense as I researched them way back in the 70's and many critical parts interchange with big Fords and Lincolns. I've also seen some cobbled up messes where guys put subframes and stubs under vehicles where they really didn't fit and attended an auction a couple of months ago where there were about 20 rigs that went for dimes on the dollar because of the less than stellar subframe swaps some of them had.

[mknittle]

Some people could screw up a bowling ball too! if i hadent done mine I would never get it going! I havent worked in 5 years do to cancer. I can work but am concered un hireable.so I use what I got.

[mknittle]

If it is too wide I can narrow or make new A arms.

[mknittle]

I think in that case a weld in aftermarket front end would be eaiser.I think you would gat more clearance on the bottomof the engine than the s10. If expence s a problem {like me} you could buy the center section weld it in and weld it in.and work on motor mounts linkages etc.

P.S i like the idea of the stock engine

[Chris.]

lets go some place new! I have access to a free early 80's c10 frame. I think if i take the front cross member off and narrow it, it should fit the AD frame pretty well but I am hoping for some input. I am going to be bagging the truck. I know the front suspension on those trucks lend themselves well to bags so I'm looking for opinions or people who have done it

Thanks
Chris

[mknittle]

That has been done and seems to work well!