lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

67 chevy heaven · 09-17-2012, 09:05 PM

OK guys,
I am in a spot where I am at a stopping point with my suspension rebuild.
First I have a 1967 1/2 ton
I took the suspension parts off, apart, cleaned and had them powder coated.
Now comes the problems...
I decided to replace the steel bushings but I decided to reuse the original shafts.
Now when I installed the bushings onto the shafts. I took my time to try to keep the shaft centered by turning each bushing a little at a time. But the bushings bottom out onto/into the lower A arm assy. this does not allow the shaft to turn at all. Also I noticed that there is a couple threads showing on each of the shaft ends (at each end from the inside edge of the bushings)
I need to know if I can back off on the bushings a little to allow the shaft to turn. I am so confused. Can some of you guys please help me.
If it would be easier you could call me at (704)-618-1464
Thanks for reading and any help.
Shawn

**lolife99** · 09-18-2012, 12:20 PM

Anyone?

VDOG · 09-18-2012, 07:32 PM

Are you talking about the upper and lower control arm shafts?
And if so, you removed them to powder coat the arms and now trying to replace the originals?

67 chevy heaven · 09-18-2012, 07:55 PM

I took the the whole suspension apart to clean all of the parts and get them powder coated.
I got new pivot bushings for the upper and lower shaft assys. Just because i already had it torn apart. Now I am trying to put it all back together.
The steel pivot bushings are screwed all of the way onto and into the A ARM assy. I tried to screw the bushings onto the A arm shaft at the same rate. A little at a time to keep everything centered. But with everything tightened down I cant rotate the shaft.
I hope this answers your questions
Posted via Mobile Device

mongoose · 09-18-2012, 08:15 PM

did you take off the powder coating?

it should be stiff.. well mine was stiff still could rotate it with channel locks.

67 chevy heaven · 09-18-2012, 09:02 PM

yes sir I did remove the excess paint from out of the inside of the A arm control assy before I installed the steel pivot bushings.
Also does anyone have any pics of the lower A arm from a side profile angle.
I wanted to make sure that the total assy does mount up a little off center of the Cross member.'
Thanks!!

thenormans05 · 09-21-2012, 04:59 PM

I am going throught the same thing as you. I just got on here to ask the same question. I would like to know how to adjust them properly after you get the shafts back in and steps on installing the shafts. What I did on my uppers was I installed one bushing to the arm screwed it all the way down then I installed the shaft in the arm and then started screwing in the other bushing, don't know if it's right or not but it worked
Posted via Mobile Device

Ozzie · 09-21-2012, 09:40 PM

Same here guys, got my uppers in ok by nipping them up evenly, seems to have worked ok but I'm a bit cautious about how to install the lowers and would like to know the procedure for installing the lowers, dont want to have to get another set of bushes, gets costly having them sent from U.S

67 chevy heaven · 09-22-2012, 10:26 AM

Hey Guys,
After I waited and waited on someone to chime in and offer me some info. and got very little, I called the home headquarters of "Moog" (Federal-Mogal). I talked to a very knowledgeable guy in the technical department that was able to fully answer all of my questions. I think that if you Google the name you can contact them and get all of your questions answered.
Good Luck!!!

desertnick69 · 11-05-2012, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67 chevy heaven

Hey Guys,
After I waited and waited on someone to chime in and offer me some info. and got very little, I called the home headquarters of "Moog" (Federal-Mogal). I talked to a very knowledgeable guy in the technical department that was able to fully answer all of my questions. I think that if you Google the name you can contact them and get all of your questions answered.
Good Luck!!!

I think we could ALL benefit if you could let others know the prober way to do this!

63frankintruck · 01-09-2016, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67 chevy heaven

Hey Guys,
After I waited and waited on someone to chime in and offer me some info. and got very little, I called the home headquarters of "Moog" (Federal-Mogal). I talked to a very knowledgeable guy in the technical department that was able to fully answer all of my questions. I think that if you Google the name you can contact them and get all of your questions answered.
Good Luck!!!

Never any info shared on this? I'm going to be rebuilding my front suspension on the 63 soon and would like to know the proper procedure for installing cross shafts. Anybody?

LH Lead-Foot · 11-05-2018, 01:24 PM

I know this thread is a little old, but many want help to DIY at home. The lower control arm when new measures 14 1/4" on the bottom from inside to inside. They issued a factory tool shaped like a piece of pipe with a wide slot that fits over the LCA shaft and "U" bolts. It fit between the ears of the lower control arm so they do not bent or collapsed while screwing in the new metal bushings while on the vehicle. The threads are cut into a new LCA while the shaft is installed. The shaft alone will not align the new bushings and allow the ears to bend while screwing in, unless the LCA is used w/new shaft & bushings. The threads are already cut and the bushing follow these straight onto the shaft.

The tool is need with a new front LCA, This tool holds the ears apart to keep everything straight onto the shaft. I am 6'4" and still had to use a cheater bar/pipe on my SnapOn 1/2" ratchet, to 3/4" adaptor to 1 5/16" socket.

Don't have the tool, well neither do I, but used it once at a dealer in the late 80's working on a trade-in C10 truck. Use a length of pipe cut to fit but exactly 14"+ long. Steel pipe sold at home improvement stores will work and cost around $10. You have to measure the shafts O.D. and cut that section out, allowing room for the "U" bolts if mounted on the truck. It is just a spacer.

Book specs will show with or without spacer. The spacer is used on the 3/4 ton vehicles like the G20, G30 and motor homes P30. The LCA have gussets welded almost to the ball joint hole to the spring perch and then both sides of the spring pocket.
If you have a 3/4 ton (G20) where the metal bushings screw in, there is extra ring of metal welded on the outside of the hole. This makes it thicker with more meat for the metal bushing to thread into. Remember, if new, it's cutting it's own threads into your new front LCA. With spacer bumps the torque up to 130 lbs. ft. The 1/2 ton C10 does not have this extra metal and torque drops to 80 lbs. ft. If the LCA is used, drops again to 60 because threads are already there.
(Note: torque specs are close / going by memory)

I help a friend replace these, about ten years ago and he pulled out an vehicle jack for an import that uses a screw with gears & pivots. We installed it, ran it out snug to 14" on the bottom side of the lower control arm, installed the shaft with a little grease and thread the metal bushing right on. They went on straight with no exposed threads.

(Tip)
If you remove the zero, measure thru the grease jerk hole to the shaft when tight by hand, you'l get about 3mm - 5mm while bottomed out on the bench. This was our goal and ended up at 4mm on both sides, thus keeping the shaft centered.

Hope this helps someone.

HotRod C/10 · 11-05-2012, 07:56 PM

how about posting the steps needed?

Ozzie · 11-06-2012, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HotRod C/10

how about posting the steps needed?

Right on Hotrod C/10, why bother chasing up info and not posting it, after all we're all here to SHARE aren't we.

oldblue1968chevy · 11-06-2012, 10:41 PM

Im curious too, I'll be doing this in the somewhat near future..

lil_sahara450r · 11-06-2012, 10:52 PM

please share!!!!!!!! Thats the reason for the forum!!!!!

Larryzzo · 12-02-2013, 11:00 AM

Sorry to dig up and old thread, but I'm rebuilding the front end on my 70 2wd. I was searching for the proper way to install new upper and lower control arm shafts and came across this. Does anyone have a write-up for this? Thanks from a "new guy". Larry

dirtyjim · 12-02-2013, 07:01 PM

when I did mine I installed the bushings with the shaft in a vise and torqued them to spec. I marked them with a sharpie then loosened them a half turn to free up the shaft. then torqued them back to the marks once they were installed. they were stiff but movable once installed & torqued

Mike Krez · 01-06-2016, 06:53 PM

I just went through this myself. Problem with the bushings was the almost non-existent thread that was rolled on there and they were out of round. I ended up throwing them in the lathe, took .020" of the diameter to true them and get them in line with the 1.625"-12 thread that they should be. When I did this the thread almost disappeared totally. Recut and they installed in no time as they should. If you're stuck with a set like this a local shop might be able to help you out for not too much? In the future I will just buy some better quality products.

09-17-2012, 09:05 PM	#1
67 chevy heaven Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: york, SC Posts: 223	lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem OK guys, I am in a spot where I am at a stopping point with my suspension rebuild. First I have a 1967 1/2 ton I took the suspension parts off, apart, cleaned and had them powder coated. Now comes the problems... I decided to replace the steel bushings but I decided to reuse the original shafts. Now when I installed the bushings onto the shafts. I took my time to try to keep the shaft centered by turning each bushing a little at a time. But the bushings bottom out onto/into the lower A arm assy. this does not allow the shaft to turn at all. Also I noticed that there is a couple threads showing on each of the shaft ends (at each end from the inside edge of the bushings) I need to know if I can back off on the bushings a little to allow the shaft to turn. I am so confused. Can some of you guys please help me. If it would be easier you could call me at (704)-618-1464 Thanks for reading and any help. Shawn

09-18-2012, 12:20 PM	#2
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem Anyone? __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

09-18-2012, 07:32 PM	#3
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem Are you talking about the upper and lower control arm shafts? And if so, you removed them to powder coat the arms and now trying to replace the originals?

09-18-2012, 07:55 PM	#4
67 chevy heaven Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: york, SC Posts: 223	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem I took the the whole suspension apart to clean all of the parts and get them powder coated. I got new pivot bushings for the upper and lower shaft assys. Just because i already had it torn apart. Now I am trying to put it all back together. The steel pivot bushings are screwed all of the way onto and into the A ARM assy. I tried to screw the bushings onto the A arm shaft at the same rate. A little at a time to keep everything centered. But with everything tightened down I cant rotate the shaft. I hope this answers your questions Posted via Mobile Device

09-18-2012, 08:15 PM	#5
mongoose Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: slurrey, bc. Posts: 1,134	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem did you take off the powder coating? it should be stiff.. well mine was stiff still could rotate it with channel locks. __________________ -'73 c/10 - Low with Go - will be complete... probably never. -'90 2wd Blazer - well... soon enough anyways. -'84 SWB - the daily gas guzzler.

09-18-2012, 09:02 PM	#6
67 chevy heaven Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: york, SC Posts: 223	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem yes sir I did remove the excess paint from out of the inside of the A arm control assy before I installed the steel pivot bushings. Also does anyone have any pics of the lower A arm from a side profile angle. I wanted to make sure that the total assy does mount up a little off center of the Cross member.' Thanks!!

09-21-2012, 04:59 PM	#7
thenormans05 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Tyler, Tx Posts: 38	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem I am going throught the same thing as you. I just got on here to ask the same question. I would like to know how to adjust them properly after you get the shafts back in and steps on installing the shafts. What I did on my uppers was I installed one bushing to the arm screwed it all the way down then I installed the shaft in the arm and then started screwing in the other bushing, don't know if it's right or not but it worked Posted via Mobile Device

09-21-2012, 09:40 PM	#8
Ozzie Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Australia Posts: 11	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem Same here guys, got my uppers in ok by nipping them up evenly, seems to have worked ok but I'm a bit cautious about how to install the lowers and would like to know the procedure for installing the lowers, dont want to have to get another set of bushes, gets costly having them sent from U.S

09-22-2012, 10:26 AM	#9
67 chevy heaven Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: york, SC Posts: 223	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem Hey Guys, After I waited and waited on someone to chime in and offer me some info. and got very little, I called the home headquarters of "Moog" (Federal-Mogal). I talked to a very knowledgeable guy in the technical department that was able to fully answer all of my questions. I think that if you Google the name you can contact them and get all of your questions answered. Good Luck!!!

11-05-2018, 01:24 PM	#12
LH Lead-Foot Registered User Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Omaha, NE. Posts: 214	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem I know this thread is a little old, but many want help to DIY at home. The lower control arm when new measures 14 1/4" on the bottom from inside to inside. They issued a factory tool shaped like a piece of pipe with a wide slot that fits over the LCA shaft and "U" bolts. It fit between the ears of the lower control arm so they do not bent or collapsed while screwing in the new metal bushings while on the vehicle. The threads are cut into a new LCA while the shaft is installed. The shaft alone will not align the new bushings and allow the ears to bend while screwing in, unless the LCA is used w/new shaft & bushings. The threads are already cut and the bushing follow these straight onto the shaft. The tool is need with a new front LCA, This tool holds the ears apart to keep everything straight onto the shaft. I am 6'4" and still had to use a cheater bar/pipe on my SnapOn 1/2" ratchet, to 3/4" adaptor to 1 5/16" socket. Don't have the tool, well neither do I, but used it once at a dealer in the late 80's working on a trade-in C10 truck. Use a length of pipe cut to fit but exactly 14"+ long. Steel pipe sold at home improvement stores will work and cost around $10. You have to measure the shafts O.D. and cut that section out, allowing room for the "U" bolts if mounted on the truck. It is just a spacer. Book specs will show with or without spacer. The spacer is used on the 3/4 ton vehicles like the G20, G30 and motor homes P30. The LCA have gussets welded almost to the ball joint hole to the spring perch and then both sides of the spring pocket. If you have a 3/4 ton (G20) where the metal bushings screw in, there is extra ring of metal welded on the outside of the hole. This makes it thicker with more meat for the metal bushing to thread into. Remember, if new, it's cutting it's own threads into your new front LCA. With spacer bumps the torque up to 130 lbs. ft. The 1/2 ton C10 does not have this extra metal and torque drops to 80 lbs. ft. If the LCA is used, drops again to 60 because threads are already there. (Note: torque specs are close / going by memory) I help a friend replace these, about ten years ago and he pulled out an vehicle jack for an import that uses a screw with gears & pivots. We installed it, ran it out snug to 14" on the bottom side of the lower control arm, installed the shaft with a little grease and thread the metal bushing right on. They went on straight with no exposed threads. (Tip) If you remove the zero, measure thru the grease jerk hole to the shaft when tight by hand, you'l get about 3mm - 5mm while bottomed out on the bench. This was our goal and ended up at 4mm on both sides, thus keeping the shaft centered. Hope this helps someone. __________________ Removed Last edited by LH Lead-Foot; 11-06-2018 at 12:38 PM.

11-05-2012, 07:56 PM	#13
HotRod C/10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Albuquerque NM Posts: 3,053	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem how about posting the steps needed? __________________ SOLD -77 CHEYENNE SWB, LS SWAPPED -1976 SILVERADO YUBA GOLD/NEUTRAL (2-TONE)

11-06-2012, 10:41 PM	#15
oldblue1968chevy Grandpa in the rustmobile... Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN Posts: 11,422	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem Im curious too, I'll be doing this in the somewhat near future.. __________________ John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

11-06-2012, 10:52 PM	#16
lil_sahara450r Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Chickasha, OK Posts: 182	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem please share!!!!!!!! Thats the reason for the forum!!!!!

12-02-2013, 11:00 AM	#17
Larryzzo Registered User Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Afton NY Posts: 9	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem Sorry to dig up and old thread, but I'm rebuilding the front end on my 70 2wd. I was searching for the proper way to install new upper and lower control arm shafts and came across this. Does anyone have a write-up for this? Thanks from a "new guy". Larry

12-02-2013, 07:01 PM	#18
dirtyjim Registered User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: alvin, texas Posts: 622	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem when I did mine I installed the bushings with the shaft in a vise and torqued them to spec. I marked them with a sharpie then loosened them a half turn to free up the shaft. then torqued them back to the marks once they were installed. they were stiff but movable once installed & torqued __________________ 1967 C10 lwb two tone, 305 & rat fink style floor shifted 700r4, 20" steelies 2004 2500HD utility bed aka Brutus



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01-06-2016, 06:53 PM	#19
Mike Krez Registered User Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Peterborough, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1	Re: lower control arm shaft/bushings replacement problem I just went through this myself. Problem with the bushings was the almost non-existent thread that was rolled on there and they were out of round. I ended up throwing them in the lathe, took .020" of the diameter to true them and get them in line with the 1.625"-12 thread that they should be. When I did this the thread almost disappeared totally. Recut and they installed in no time as they should. If you're stuck with a set like this a local shop might be able to help you out for not too much? In the future I will just buy some better quality products.

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