Is this to much damage for a swap?

[richards72chevy]

Some one told me this was hit to hard for a cross member swap.I dont think it is but would like your guys opion too.

[fleetsidelarry]

just from that picture, my personal "backyard mechanic" opinion is that it would be OK if that is all the damage. the frame may or may not be slightly tweaked but I sincerely doubt the cross member and its components were harmed.

[66clow]

Looks too high to have damaged the frame. My concern would be that hinge post. does not look like the rocker was hit so the frame looks lilke it would be ok with my 3d glasses on.

[richards72chevy]

Thats what i was thinking.Im only out 150 on the parts truck it has a running 305 and a good trans in it.Sold the headache rack for 25 so its only 125 now.Ive been researching the swap on here and kind of having second thoughts on it.My 66 is a little rusty but looks like no collissian damage and all the door gaps are good.I can push the doors shut with one finger.My mane concern is just having disc brakes for this truck and the running engine and trans.

[richards72chevy]

Even the stearing column was pushed over in the dash.

[fleetsidelarry]

wish you could see me trying to tilt my head far enough to one side to figure out what that 2nd picture is of

in a few more hours you'll probably get input from some of the more knowlegable members but I think the front crossmember is a pretty stout piece and not likely to have tweaked. and if the tires weren't hit the control arms etc are going to be fine

it's not just disc brakes, it's POWER disc brakes, AND power steering--IMO, 2 of the 3 best mods you can make to the '66.

[Clyde65]

Just swap the a-arms, swaybar, spindle and brakes. You really don't need the cross member.
Posted via Mobile Device

[richards72chevy]

Thank you guy for all the replies.Ive been leaning towards just putting the a-arms, swaybar, spindle and brake off the 83 on the 66.I already have the old engine and trans and front sheet metal off of the 66.But i can undo the springs off the 83 then put the305 in the 66 and then take springs out of it. Does it matter what springs i use if i go this route?

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by richards72chevy

Thank you guy for all the replies.Ive been leaning towards just putting the a-arms, swaybar, spindle and brake off the 83 on the 66.I already have the old engine and trans and front sheet metal off of the 66.But i can undo the springs off the 83 then put the305 in the 66 and then take springs out of it. Does it matter what springs i use if i go this route?

With some guidance--hopefully a local guy who's done it before--he should be able to check/analyze engine condition by checking noise and oil pressure when it is cold; then doing same when hot; checking o/p swing under tranny-load when hot; etc--I can see you using many $$$$$(at junkyard prices) worth of stuff off this '83--I'm assuming it has auto trans. Eng/tranny worth ~$400-$600, plus a premium in that you will know after checking that there'll be ONLY ONE installation. Power booster/m-cylinder with disc brakes & spindles, complete, including it being a matched set,to include 5-lug truck wheel pattern, worth ~ $150-$450. Power steering pump with brackets and hoses and pulleys, power st. gear with correct pitman arm(arm alone costs $35-$90)--again a matched set worth ~ $150-$300. Probably a sway bar with brackets, worth ~$100-$155. Don't value differential for swapping: better to pull your axles from '66 & have them re-drilled to accept 5 lugs--just believe me on this, as it has many advantages over using a wider diff'l.

Quickly adding minimums, I totalled $800 that pretty much represent a simple unbolt-and-rebolt. [The maximums I got quickly, and subject to my errors, came up to over $1500. Talking about a return on investment!!!] Plus, I'd bet a small amount that you also have a useable tilt steering column worth another $125-$175. Also, some trucks around those years had a replaced safety gas tank moved to underneath rear with a relief to still accept the original spare tire storage: this may have been '73'ish models instead of '83'ish models.

But before you begin a process like "undo the springs off the 83 then put the305 in the 66 and then take springs out of it", get someone to come over & advise more direct & necessary procedures, even if you have to pay him some 'consultant fees'. Often having our quarterbacks 'present in the body' can be much more helpful and clearer than even such a great forum as we have on here. Even then, you WILL have more ???? that our forum will be able to help you with. I just feel you can greatly benefit with a lot of basic help that we might erroneously assume you are already experienced in.

Enjoy your upcoming work. Already you've done what so many of us on here now wish we would have done when beginning our project. That is, buying a donor that has all the minor extras like nuts, washers, brackets, linkages--not to mention its having many of the major upgrades(engine, trannies etc) where you can check them to avoid wasting labor having to undo the install & return to junkyard to have it replaced under warranty. You've made a wise decision and a great investment!

Have fun!

[woodscavenger]

With that hit I doubt the crossmember is damaged. You should be safe for the swap if you choose to do it. If not, salvage what you can and based on steel salvage you will still come out ahead.

[Captainfab]

As long as the left front wheel wasn't hit, the front suspension should be fine. The steering column being crooked is because the cab was hit so hard, it is moved over to the right, from where it was originally.

[kieth]

The 91 burb I used as a donor was hit hard in the right front end. I had to replace 1 A arm......125.00 new from a online supplier...no big deal. The front crossmember itself is pretty tuff, I also used from the donor, the:

engine, alternator, power steering pump, serpentine belt setup....etc...

transmission

power steering gearbox

tilt steering column

wiring harness
(fuel injected 350)

I chose to purchase a new after market transmission crossmember because the one on the burb was not symetrical nor conducive to dual exhaust routing.

Donor trucks RULE you cannot add all these items any less expensively..$900.00

ps I bought the a arm, front end rebuild parts , radiator, from Rock Auto...

Kieth

[richards72chevy]

Thank you guys.Im hoping i finish it up soon.