Oil capacity of 350 V8? Also, what say you about synthetic?

[Mister-B]

Going to change my oil, but need to know how many quarts to purchase?

Also, I'm a synthetic fan, but curious if this would be ok to use on a '69 350 V8 with a rebuilt motor? What oil do you use?
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[doubleb's69]

If it has a stock pan it is 5 quarts. I just use Valvoline 10W40 standard type oil.

[cdowns]

i'm a huge fan if synthetic's engine tranny rear wheelbeaings anything and everything that ican use it on i do

i like mobil one

[Stocker]

x2 on 5 quarts with a stock pan. No problem using synthetics.... I do in gearboxes but I don't personally see the justification in most engines. I use Chevron 10W30 dino and change it regularly, and use a quality oil filter.

[weever82]

I use Castrol 10W30 with good results, can't justify the synthetic for the engine. Also if you have a few leaks the synthetic will leak even more... FYI

Weev-

[jd7]

SYNTHETIC IS GREAT IN THE NEWER GENERATION ENGINES.
Sorry the caps lock was on. but i think with the greater tolerances of the older designed motor it does not do as well.

[ChevLoRay]

In my opinion, changing to synthetic just to use synthetic, is a waste of money.

On the other hand, if you're dealing with a new crate engine or a total rebuild, then it might be something to consider. The supposed advantages of synthetic over fossil oil will take some time and miles to become apparent. The military uses synthetic and takes periodic samples to send off for analysis. That would be for aircraft usage. In theory, the synthetic lasts and lasts, and the periodic analysis is what is used to determine when/if it should be changed.

[72 tigger]

I thought someone on this site used synthetic & ruined thier engine- it does'nt have zinc?- like the conventional does. Somebody in CA? I may be wrong

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

I thought someone on this site used synthetic & ruined thier engine- it does'nt have zinc?- like the conventional does. Somebody in CA? I may be wrong

There is no zinc in modern conventional oil either
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[Fldawg]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

I thought someone on this site used synthetic & ruined thier engine- it does'nt have zinc?- like the conventional does. Somebody in CA? I may be wrong

in conventional no , but there is some good oil out there with zinc in it
i use brad penn oil, it's cheaper than synthetic and it has zinc, you can also use joe gibbs racing oil but it's more expensive than brad penn, by the way the brad penn oil is the old green kendall formula for those that remember that

[GASoline71]

Probably on initial cam break in with a rebuild. Sure it's happened to more than just one.

Gary

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Probably on initial cam break in with a rebuild. Sure it's happened to more than just one.

Gary

X2
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[GMCJOE]

If you are going to purchase synthetic oil, make sure you purchase fully synthetic, as to get the most out of your money. Read the label on the bottle, cause a lot of them these days are blended. I have ran both, switched back and forth between conventional and synthetic. I usually purchase what is on sale for Castrol. I don't switch brands off oil.

The Army sent me to a advanced class a year or so ago, the older gentleman teaching the class brought up the two oils. This guy has vast amounts of knowledge and certified in every aspect of the automotive field. He made sure he brought up the fact he was around when synthetic oil was first introduced in the 70's. This is what he told us: If you feel you want to run synthetic and can afford it, your choice. Fully synthetics have a longer life for mileage (8-10K miles) and you don't have to change for seasonal as the viscosity stay the same. Synthetics are also chemically made and have no minerals. He added the fact that you may gain a few more HP. Conventional oil is made from minerals and has a running life span of about 6000 miles (the myth of changing oils every 3k was brought around by the companies producing the oils). Has to be changed for cold and hot weather temps to a different weight. Another thing he mentioned was there is no harm in switching back and forth between the two, it's just when you have to change the oil that makes the difference. And beware of buying synthetics that are promoted as synthetics and are actually blended, basically you are just paying over paying. He also told us it doesn't matter the generation of engine for running types of oils, just what they are specified to run.

I have ran all three in my older vehicles and newer. If it wasn't leaking before I put the synthetic in, it wasn't leaking afterwards either (high mileage or not). I didn't feel any performance differences. My rule of thumb for the oils is, I stay with one brand. I have no problem running conventional, blended, or fully synthetic. But, I do ensure that I am getting a deal when I purchase, or base it off of if I am making a trip from Kansas to Maryland and back. Just my opinion.

[dwarf717]

Use diesel rated oils such as Shell Rotella, or Castrol Hypuron (good stuff!!!) or any motorcycle rated oil. They still have plenty of zinc for the older engines. NO regular motor oils including synthetic contain zinc anymore. Zinc is needed for proper valvetrain lubrication in older engines

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by dwarf717

Zinc is needed for proper valvetrain lubrication in older engines

And if your heads have been rebuilt within the past several years, you probably had hardened seats installed, so zinc is no longer required.... right? That's what I was told when my heads were done several years back.

[sjarrett71]

Originally Posted by Stocker

And if your heads have been rebuilt within the past several years, you probably had hardened seats installed, so zinc is no longer required.... right? That's what I was told when my heads were done several years back.

I believe the hardened valve seats had to do with leaded or unleaded gasoline. Zinc in the oil has to do with stuff like flat tappet cams and such.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by sjarrett71

I believe the hardened valve seats had to do with leaded or unleaded gasoline. Zinc in the oil has to do with stuff like flat tappet cams and such.

Now that you've jostled my aging gray matter.... yup, I think you nailed it. My thought process was flawed (again!). If oil affects the valve seats, you have bigger problems... Thanks!

[Mister-B]

Thanks for the replies everybody!

I bought some full synthetic castrol today for only $17.29. Not sure if it was a price mistake or not, but that's a great deal in my book for full synthetic oil. I changed it today, and it seems to run great, although its probably in my head.



I'm sold on synthetic, and have for years. Just needed opinions on this vehicle
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[Fldawg]

Originally Posted by dwarf717

Use diesel rated oils such as Shell Rotella, or Castrol Hypuron (good stuff!!!) or any motorcycle rated oil. They still have plenty of zinc for the older engines. NO regular motor oils including synthetic contain zinc anymore. Zinc is needed for proper valvetrain lubrication in older engines

there is no zinc in delo or rotella anymore hate to tell ya, if you don't believe me check

[dwarf717]

Originally Posted by Fldawg

there is no zinc in delo or rotella anymore hate to tell ya, if you don't believe me check

Zinc is still there at just under 1200 ppm. If the zinc was gone, they would have to change the classifications, and would not be certified for use in motorcycles. Diesel and motorcycle engines do not have roller valvetrains and still need the zinc.

[PanelDeland]

From my research on oils,I can find nowhere that zinc has been banned.It seems that in all I have read that some zinc is still included in most oils and that other anti-wear additives have been included in at least some.Nowhere do I find that synthetic is better or worse than mineral based oil.I also haven't found anything about changing between the different(syn-blend-mineral) types causing problems.About the time the synthetics started hitting the market,I took several industrial lube classes and never was taught that there was any difference in lubricity.There are some problems with mixing and I don't fully understand but all I have found say not to mix but you can use a blend(isn't thathe same thing?).About that same time I was involved in upkeep on a fleet and they had gone to Mobil synthetics.Their test agreement with Mobil was to run Mobil synthetic in their fleet.Changes were done every 12,000 mi but the filters were changed every 3000 and a quart added.This was in the 70's and the test was scheduled to run for several years.I do know that in the 2 years I was involved there were no serious engine wear problems noted.This was in the early/mid 70's and the fleet(or at least what we took care of) consisted mostly of 1 tons racking up 30,000 or so a year.Each oil change had to be sampled for testing by Mobil.Who knows what they found but I'm sure they are still doing some of this type of research.
I have seen the cam manufacturers all seem to require the use of an antiwaer additive(I'm assuming a lead) for cam break-in.Most have their own proprietary additive,made to their specs.

[dwarf717]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

From my research on oils,I can find nowhere that zinc has been banned.It seems that in all I have read that some zinc is still included in most oils and that other anti-wear additives have been included in at least some.Nowhere do I find that synthetic is better or worse than mineral based oil.I also haven't found anything about changing between the different(syn-blend-mineral) types causing problems.About the time the synthetics started hitting the market,I took several industrial lube classes and never was taught that there was any difference in lubricity.There are some problems with mixing and I don't fully understand but all I have found say not to mix but you can use a blend(isn't thathe same thing?).About that same time I was involved in upkeep on a fleet and they had gone to Mobil synthetics.Their test agreement with Mobil was to run Mobil synthetic in their fleet.Changes were done every 12,000 mi but the filters were changed every 3000 and a quart added.This was in the 70's and the test was scheduled to run for several years.I do know that in the 2 years I was involved there were no serious engine wear problems noted.This was in the early/mid 70's and the fleet(or at least what we took care of) consisted mostly of 1 tons racking up 30,000 or so a year.Each oil change had to be sampled for testing by Mobil.Who knows what they found but I'm sure they are still doing some of this type of research.
I have seen the cam manufacturers all seem to require the use of an antiwaer additive(I'm assuming a lead) for cam break-in.Most have their own proprietary additive,made to their specs.

Things have changed alot since the 70s! Zddp is not in any regular car oils anymore, mineral, or synthetic. There are no replacements in the oils to replace the zinc either. Engines all have roller valvetrains now, and do not need it. Zddp does not mix well with catalytic convertors, nor will an engine with zddp in its oil pass emissions tests. That is why engines were converted to roller valvetrains, and zddp eliminated from oil

[Pont406]

from crower site:
Use of Synthetic Oils
Crower does not recommend the use of synthetic motor oil in any application, particularly in hydraulic and flat tappet camshafts. If your car manufacturer's owners manual suggests running synthetic oil, you may do so. The minimum gains in horsepower are offset by the excessive wear to cam and lifter surfaces. We have found that the benefits, of synthetic motor oil, do not outweigh the costs and may endanger your engine's life. Crower recommends a non-detergent / race only petroleum based 30wt. motor oil in all performance applications. The lack of phosphorus and zinc in current oil blends is catastrophic to engine longevity. For all applications we do recommend running our ZDDPlus additive, which adds zinc and phosphorus back into the oil. For additional information on oil, click here!

http://www.crower.com/faq/#h

[Hubscrub]

regular old pennsoil 10w-30 has worked for my bunch of vehicles for years..........

[dwarf717]

Originally Posted by Pont406

from crower site:
Use of Synthetic Oils
Crower does not recommend the use of synthetic motor oil in any application, particularly in hydraulic and flat tappet camshafts. If your car manufacturer's owners manual suggests running synthetic oil, you may do so. The minimum gains in horsepower are offset by the excessive wear to cam and lifter surfaces. We have found that the benefits, of synthetic motor oil, do not outweigh the costs and may endanger your engine's life. Crower recommends a non-detergent / race only petroleum based 30wt. motor oil in all performance applications. The lack of phosphorus and zinc in current oil blends is catastrophic to engine longevity. For all applications we do recommend running our ZDDPlus additive, which adds zinc and phosphorus back into the oil. For additional information on oil, click here!

http://www.crower.com/faq/#h

WORD!!!! Motorcycle, hdeo, and diesel rated oils still contain zddp and phosphorus.