Original trans Xmember question '57

[yossarian19]

So, I notice that the transmission cross member on my '57 is dented and quite probably in the way of the coming 4l60E.
I was thinking I'd just cut the rivets & get rid of it, adding a separate cross member further down the line to support the trans. Then I noticed that the OE member ties the two leaf spring mounts together.
Should I worry about tying the leaf mounts together, maybe modifying the stock member to clear the trans - or just get rid of it?

[_Ogre]

the stock x-member also supports the front cab mounts.
and yes you should worry about support in that area.
i solved it by making the trans x-member stout and welded in
and ran bracing forward to the cab mounts, no springs on mine.



63split modified his frame



most frame manufacturers do a similar setup

tci frame

[OrrieG]

I kept mine and the TH350 is a tight fit, the converter cover has to be installed in two pieces. You are right that it provides a tension connection between the spring shackles. Lots of street trucks remove them without any problem. I kept mine because it is going to be used in 4wd and I know how much the frame twists and flexs off road. It would not be that difficult to fab one out of rectangular stock that could bolt in and out. Denee is doing that to her truck.

[yossarian19]

Orrie, do you have any pictures of that area that are slightly backed up?
I read somewhere that the stock trans cross member, left in place, would make removing the trans pan difficult if not impossible if you run a 4l60e or Turbo 350 / 400.
I don't know how true that is, just trying to plan ahead a little.
If I can get the motor / trans positioned so I don't need to remove that cross member... then I won't touch it.
Otherwise, I was thinking about sectioning the original and using bolts to put the drop-out center section in place OR fabbing a whole new member, which I'd rather not do but suppose I could.

[OrrieG]

I will see if I can get some. I know you can remove and install the pan on a TH350, I have had the aluminum one off and on twice to get the drain to stop leaking. You can get most of the bolts with a rachet and socket, but there are a few that you need to use a flat rachet wrench or box end to get. Aligning the gasket can be challenging but I put on a thin skin of sealant and let it tack good so the gasket does not slip as much.