LM7 5.3L to F-body oil pan

[mrhurt73]

I have a 2001 LM7 5.3L engine i am putting in a 1979 chassis that is lowered on airbags. when the truck is lowered, the oil pan sits right on the ground.
kind of thought it would.

i was thinking of using a F-body oil pan to gain plenty of clearance.

i found these numbers, anybody know if they are correct? or anybody made this change?

12558762 oil pan
12558251 pickup tube
12558253 windage tray

any advice would would be great.

[LEEVON]

I'm not sure about the part numbers, but the F-body pan will solve your problem, I think it's only about 5.5" deep. I have one on my airbagged '50, Mustang II front with 5.3L and it's a good inch or two higher than the crossmember.

My only tips are be careful of used pans, look very closely for cracks. Also, there is a special alignment procedure for these pans. I think CTS-V and a couple of other styles will work too.

Leevon

[Bagood]

I have an 05 5.3 and swapped to a f body pan.....pace performance has an entire setup( dipstick, tube, windage tray, pan, gasket, bolts, pickup tube) it ran me 320 shipped to me. not sure of your budget but I thought it was a fair deal

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

I'm not sure about the part numbers, but the F-body pan will solve your problem, I think it's only about 5.5" deep. I have one on my airbagged '50, Mustang II front with 5.3L and it's a good inch or two higher than the crossmember.

My only tips are be careful of used pans, look very closely for cracks. Also, there is a special alignment procedure for these pans. I think CTS-V and a couple of other styles will work too.

Leevon

tell me more of this alignment procedure? what do you have to do?

Originally Posted by Bagood

I have an 05 5.3 and swapped to a f body pan.....pace performance has an entire setup( dipstick, tube, windage tray, pan, gasket, bolts, pickup tube) it ran me 320 shipped to me. not sure of your budget but I thought it was a fair deal

hmm pace performance? will have to do web search, thanks for the info.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by mrhurt73

tell me more of this alignment procedure? what do you have to do?

Basically, you just want to make sure the back edge of the pan is aligned with the back of the block due to the fact that the transmission bolts to it. If it's overhanging the block, or in too far, bolting the transmission up tight will cause alignment issues. The shop manual says to put a straight edge on the back side, but it's not practicle if the engine is in the vehicle. Also, put a dab of silicone on the 4 corners of the pan gasket where the front and rear covers meet the block to prevent leaks, there is a little crosshatch area on the gasket in those areas if I remember correctly.

[mrhurt73]

after measuring again

maybe a CTS-V pan would be best
CTS-V oil pan: Part#12605814
Oil pan defector: Part# 12611129
Oil pump pickup: Part# 12621299
Oil dipstick tube: Part# 12584737
Oil dipstick: Part# 12584738

anybody used the cadillac pan?

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Basically, you just want to make sure the back edge of the pan is aligned with the back of the block due to the fact that the transmission bolts to it. If it's overhanging the block, or in too far, bolting the transmission up tight will cause alignment issues. The shop manual says to put a straight edge on the back side, but it's not practicle if the engine is in the vehicle. Also, put a dab of silicone on the 4 corners of the pan gasket where the front and rear covers meet the block to prevent leaks, there is a little crosshatch area on the gasket in those areas if I remember correctly.

thanks my engine came from the wrecking yard with the bellhousing bolts loose, might take it off and align it that way. is the 4L60E same as TH400 that you have to spin torque converter until it falls in pump before bolting up?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by mrhurt73

is the 4L60E same as TH400 that you have to spin torque converter until it falls in pump before bolting up?

Definitley! If it's not seated all the way you'll ruin the pump! Had a buddy do that on a fresh rebuild, he got the fun of pulling it again.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by mrhurt73

after measuring again

maybe a CTS-V pan would be best
CTS-V oil pan: Part#12605814
Oil pan defector: Part# 12611129
Oil pump pickup: Part# 12621299
Oil dipstick tube: Part# 12584737
Oil dipstick: Part# 12584738

anybody used the cadillac pan?

I used an 07 CTsV pan and it worked great with the ECE motor mounts. Here's another thread with all the different oil pans:

http://www.gmtruckhq.com/lsx-tech/ls...them-2720.html

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Basically, you just want to make sure the back edge of the pan is aligned with the back of the block due to the fact that the transmission bolts to it. If it's overhanging the block, or in too far, bolting the transmission up tight will cause alignment issues. The shop manual says to put a straight edge on the back side, but it's not practicle if the engine is in the vehicle. Also, put a dab of silicone on the 4 corners of the pan gasket where the front and rear covers meet the block to prevent leaks, there is a little crosshatch area on the gasket in those areas if I remember correctly.

I swapped out my pan when the engine and tranny was still bolted together. At the time, I didn't know that there was a particular procedure to do this, I just bolted it on. Is there anything I can do to double check and make sure I have it installed correctly? The motor and transmission are already bolted in... Thanks in advance and sorry for the hi-jack....

Edit: Here's another thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=272174

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

I used an 07 CTsV pan and it worked great with the ECE motor mounts. Here's another thread with all the different oil pans:

http://www.gmtruckhq.com/lsx-tech/ls...them-2720.html

I swapped out my pan when the engine and tranny was still bolted together. At the time, I didn't know that there was a particular procedure to do this, I just bolted it on. Is there anything I can do to double check and make sure I have it installed correctly? The motor and transmission are already bolted in... Thanks in advance and sorry for the hi-jack....

Edit: Here's another thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=272174

good site, confirmed what i was thinking........

don't worry about the hi-jack, it might have an answer i wanted to know

[68Stepbed]

I used an f-body pan in my swap and it has great clearance. The stock truck pan hung too low for comfort for me and I'm only static dropped 4.5". I got my stuff used from www.ls1tech.com classifieds.

[Daaaanz67]

I have in my 69 c10 sits abou 1/2 inch above x member but I think it depends on which motor mounts your using here some photos
Posted via Mobile Device

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

I have in my 69 c10 sits abou 1/2 inch above x member but I think it depends on which motor mounts your using here some photos
Posted via Mobile Device

which pan is that? hard to tell upsidedown

[mrhurt73]

now it looks like the caddy pan after some serious web surfing.
but i am going to wait until motor mounts come back and measure again before i order pan. dont want to send two back.

[68Stepbed]

F-body pan vs. truck pan

[68Stepbed]

This is in my 68, which is similar chassis design as a 79.

[ZR2RICK]

I also have a 5.3l in a TF chevy truck, I did use an Ls1 pan but would probably go with the Caddy pan if I was to do it again, the camaro pan is shallower but the sump is longer front to back if you are running a camaro or similar clip the fit is very tight from rear of crossmember to front of sump with the engine set very close to the firewall.

[mrhurt73]

does anybody know if these are current GM numbers?

CTS-V oil pan: Part#12605814
Oil pan defector: Part# 12611129
Oil pump pickup: Part# 12621299
Oil dipstick tube: Part# 12584737
Oil dipstick: Part# 12584738


also anywhere to get these besides GM dealers or GMpartsdirect?

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by mrhurt73

does anybody know if these are current GM numbers?

CTS-V oil pan: Part#12605814
Oil pan defector: Part# 12611129
Oil pump pickup: Part# 12621299
Oil dipstick tube: Part# 12584737
Oil dipstick: Part# 12584738

After searching GM parts website and LS1tech i found,
caddy oil pan part no 12605814 and part 12598152 both have been superseded by
#12631828 oil pan.

and found a note that says #12611129 deflector is not needed for swaping a truck pan. they are the same part. hmmm who knew?

[68Stepbed]

Check the classifieds at ls1tech.com. That's where I got most of my stuff.

[DrppdBlazr]

Heres all the info you need to know..

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...-oil-pans.html

[mrhurt73]

found nice pictures here.

most info is the same but nice pictures

http://www.improvedracing.com/LS-oil-pan-dimensions.php

[mrhurt73]

2009-Present Cadillac CTS-V Oil Pan
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Vehicles:2009 Cadillac CTS-VCapacity:6 quartsOil Filter Thread:M22 x 1.5mmBaffles:Factory only
- Part Numbers -


Oil pan:12631828 (current), 12605814 (previous), 12628451 (previous)
Pickup tube:12621299
Windage tray:12611129
Dip stick:12584737
Dip stick tube:12584738
Pickup tube o-ring:12557752
Gasket:12612350

[19SIKtySix]

I'm swapping to an LM4 and have a F body oil pan, but stumped on what to do with the new dipstick. From what I can tell, the new pan doesn't have any place for the dipstick.

Can anybody clarify this issue for me?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 19SIKtySix

I'm swapping to an LM4 and have a F body oil pan, but stumped on what to do with the new dipstick. From what I can tell, the new pan doesn't have any place for the dipstick.

Can anybody clarify this issue for me?

Dipstick doesn't go in the pan on an F body. Your engine should have a place for the dipstick in the block, that may or may not be drilled for it. If it's drilled for it, it will have a tiny freeze plug looking thing in it that you can knock out, but since your other thread you make it sound like it's an older engine, they sometimes aren't drilled for it. Drilling it isn't hard if the engine isn't in the vehicle though.