temperature sending switch question

[Denee007]

Hi~!
If I were to EVER find a temperature sending switch for my sbc 350, will it work with the factory temp gauge on my original dash? or is there an ohm difference?

Also, I bought an electric fan for the radiator from Classictrucks, but it didn't come with a harness for switching it on and off; they don't offer. On my intake manifold towards the back and drivers side, there's another plug~ can I put the switch for the fan there? or does it have to be near the thermostat? and any suggestions for the switch/wiring/etc~ where to buy or what kind?

I'm getting very close to cranking this engine up! just the piddling things (like wiring) are very irritating! lol
dne'

This is an earlier picture, I'm a lot further than this pic

[Trekster]

I used this switch and so far it works fine. Your guage should be mechanical and and will be seperate from this switch. You will have to install it in a seperate port. I threaded the switch into a port by the thermostat housing and the temp guage in the block. I'll take a picture and post to show you.

http://http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/10560/10002/-1

[Trekster]

Not a very good pic but it shows where the switch and temp guage are installed.

Maybe this link will work.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10560/10002/-1

[OrrieG]

58-59 use a electrical sender, I used the port in the head between #1 & 3 spark plug holes. It will read about 8-10 degrees hotter than one in the maniford or water pump. I do not remember if I used the one from my six or one that came with the 62 283. I know I got it up to temperature and measured the radiator temp to check the range that was acceptable.

[Don Quixote]

I just ran into the same dilemma myself recently. What I did on my 72 with a custom 350 with the factory gauges off a 67, was to pick up a gauge sending unit for a 69 v8 which will have to mount on the intake as it is bigger than the port on the head. It can be argued that it is not an absolute perfect read but it will tell me if I am pulling my 15,000lb trailer up a grade a little too hard. I I tend to run an electric fan someday and my plan is to use a secondary adjustable thermostat to work the fan with a bypass on switch much like what is set up in most big rigs. I hope this helps.
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[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Hi~!
If I were to EVER find a temperature sending switch for my sbc 350, will it work with the factory temp gauge on my original dash? or is there an ohm difference?

Also, I bought an electric fan for the radiator from Classictrucks, but it didn't come with a harness for switching it on and off; they don't offer. On my intake manifold towards the back and drivers side, there's another plug~ can I put the switch for the fan there? or does it have to be near the thermostat? and any suggestions for the switch/wiring/etc~ where to buy or what kind?

I'm getting very close to cranking this engine up! just the piddling things (like wiring) are very irritating! lol
dne'

This is an earlier picture, I'm a lot further than this pic

You need a sender for the gauge. You could use the original if it fits the manifold. You need a switch for the fan. It should be as close to the T stat as possible for accurate operations. Call me I have what you need for the fan.

[solidaxel]

I run my thermostat at 180* and a ground for the relay to run the fan switch which is a 190* in the cylinder head. When everything gets up to temp. there is not much difference and the rad should keep everything at 180*

[Denee007]

Thanks ya'll!

Trekster (like in Star Trek?), thank you for the info and the pic! I'll keep this in mind!

Orrie~ ; ) I was kind of looking at the plug between 1 and 3. I hope my header isn't in the way, I'll check tomorrow. Why can't I use the spot on the back of the intake manifold?

Don Q~ welcome!! ; ) Thank you~

Dave! I'll call you soon!

I'd like to be able to use the Temp gauge in my reconditioned instrument dash. My amp meter is a Volt meter now, so maybe I will have to put another Temp gauge to capish with the send.

[OrrieG]

The only port behind the carb is for the vacuum in the 6/8 runner, the water jacket does not cross over like the front.

[Russell Ashley]

I got my temp sending unit at NAPA, p/n MPE TS6469SB. It's in the left side head toward the front and seems to work correctly with the standard guage. I just noticed that the sales receipt says "63 Chevy truck temp sender".

[1project2many]

There are different ranges for the temp sender resistance and the sender and gauge work together. You can tie it to the temperature that the original thermostat opens. I spent a bunch of time looking at senders and specs and finally settled on an original replacement sender for my '57 (V8 trucks also got electric gauges). I'm using a 195 degree thermostat which would normally cause the needle to read near hot when the engine's warm. A later sender would connect but but that would change the entire temp scale calibration. Instead I installed a resistor inline with the temp sender to skew the readings slightly so the needle is just over 1/2 when the engine's warm.

[_Ogre]

denee, not a good pic but the facory put the sender in the hole under your green tape. you can barely see the edge of mine. as for the fan temp sensor, i have mine in the lower radiator hose. it's work fine there for 15000 miles but others have not been so lucky.

[Denee007]

I was wondering when you were going to chime in Ogre I remember your switch in the lower radiator hose (why didn't it work for others?)! I found the switch (below) on google images, looks nice, just need to find the pigtail to connect to it if I go that direction. I'm going to contact Dave Chapman some time today and see what he has. Today I'll be installing my radiator/elec fan. A momentus occasion! Then go to O'reilly's and see about radiator hoses. The guys at Oreilly's don't like to see me come in as I always need something that doesn't have an application! They always ask me what a part will be going in, I say a 59 Apache, but nothing in my truck (or yours) is original to it! lol I always say, "Guys!" duh! lol

http://www.ecklerschevelle.com/cheve...1964-1972.html

[NEWFISHER]

I have found when building hoses, taking some welding rod or wire coat hanger and "routing" the path of the hose works well. I drop it off at the parts store, have lunch and they have usually done the leg work by the time I get back. Standing on the back floor with your head tilted up looking at hoses for 45 min is no fun.

[Don Quixote]

The sending unit is actually pretty easy to come by at any auto parts store for about 8 bucks.
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[Denee007]

I went to Oreillys and yes, they had the sender switch! I don't know why I was thinking it was a special item! I was kind of disappointed that it didn't screw into my manifold as far as I would have liked, but it will have to do. Now I need to pull the plug out of the cylinder head to maybe put the sensor/ or whatever its called for the electric fan. I did get an upper hose, actually used the original hose. the lower hose, I'm going to have to take pic with circles and arrows to show the guys what I need. I'm kind of tired today, but I did get the radiator in!!
Newfisher, that's what I'm going to do when it comes time for the lower radiator hose~ that's a good idea!!
; )

Originally Posted by Don Quixote

The sending unit is actually pretty easy to come by at any auto parts store for about 8 bucks.
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forgot to get hose clamps! the long pink wire goes to the distributor~ I still have wiring to contend with

[_Ogre]

an electric fan temp sensor in the motor will cause the fan to run continuously even if the radiator is ice cold.
they have a thermostat housing with a fitting in it, but then it would run every time your thermostat opens.
which might be a good thing.
i put it in the lower hose to let the radiator do it's thing

also look at my upper radiator hose, i couldn't find anything to clear my air filter so i stuck some ss exhaust tubing in there.

[Denee007]

That's really clever Ogre the way you did the upper hose! Your radiator looks close to mine, and your lower radiator hose looks like it would go with my setup. Do you recall what lower hose you used? I almost bought a lower radiator hose for a typical mid-70's chevy thinking I might could make it work, but didn't.

Originally Posted by _Ogre

an electric fan temp sensor in the motor will cause the fan to run continuously even if the radiator is ice cold.
they have a thermostat housing with a fitting in it, but then it would run every time your thermostat opens.
which might be a good thing.
i put it in the lower hose to let the radiator do it's thing

also look at my upper radiator hose, i couldn't find anything to clear my air filter so i stuck some ss exhaust tubing in there.