Brake lines

[Coach529]

Next step in Henry is new brake lines. I have a POL dual master and prop valve and will be running all new lines.

What is the easiest material to bend and look decent? The fronts will be kind of a pain due to the area I need to get them into. Rear will be easy since the bed is off.

I have the tools to do a double flare.

[OrrieG]

I used the preflared with fittings and couplers from NAPA where I could. I think I only had to do 3 or 4 flares. Use a good bending tool, cheap ones will kink the line. Here is a link to the part of my build thread that shows what I did. Note in the photo the expansion coils off of the MC are vertical. I found that it was impossible to bleed the brakes and ended up turning them 90 degrees.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...9&postcount=39

[Kabwe]

I've never had an issue bending steel brake lines, they are pretty easy to bend and flare in my opinion. I recently heard about poly-armor lines. I've never used them but they say they can be hand bent. Here is a link to do a little reading up on them if you like http://www.agscompany.com/faq/10.

If every get another project (I know I wont.lol) I just may give them a try.

[dubie]

I just finished running all new line son my 56. I used the Bendy pre flared with fittings from my local auto parts store. for tight corners I used the edge of a ratchet to make the bend. It all went in with very little effort and no kinks at all. I was intimidated at first seeing how I'd never done brake lines before but it was actually really easy. It only took 2 hours to do the entire truck and a cost of $35 as opposed to buying pre-bent kits for $200

[Coach529]

Thanks guys. Prebents are not an option since I am altering how the truck was originally layed out.

I will head to Napa, but some long length's and hope for the best!!

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I will head to Napa, but some long length's and hope for the best!!

They go from around 12" to over 6 feet. You can run most of the length of the truck with two pieces. I used the same stuff for my fuel line and got from the back tank to fuel pump location with two pieces.

[Denee007]

Hm, I ordered tubing from summit racing in 25' length, and you need a handful of the nuts to go along with it, and retainers to hold the lines to the frame. The really nice stuff that I bought at Oreillys auto parts comes in made up lengths with flare nuts, but I found that if you need to cut them with a tubing cutter,then go to reflare, the coating comes off and doesn't look like a trustworthy flare even with a Rigid flaring tool. But if a premade length was to work, that would be good because they bend pretty easily and look nice. The steel tubing will look old as time goes by, but I'm ok with that, but i hear you can shoot clear on it and will look ok for a while. Bending tubing is fun in itself and of course you need a decent tubing bender, flaring kit, tubing cutter. You have to think, something I'm not very good at these days; )
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[Wvgearhead]

I used the polyArmer "Coated" steel lines from local parts store. I picked mine up at Advance for $21 for a 25 foot role(3/16). It has a green color coating. I double flared with a cheapo flare tool. Came out great.

[mknittle]

has anybody tried the nickel copper? they are supposed to be super easy to work with.

[my57210]

I used the the copper steel lines when I did mine. It flared easily and conformed to the bends easily.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by my57210

I used the the copper steel lines when I did mine. It flared easily and conformed to the bends easily.
Posted via Mobile Device

thanks, that is what I am thinking about using on my 52

[rollinrooster]

This was my first time doing brake lines... i used the 25' steel rolls on mine and it was much easier than i thought it would be.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Coach, I haven't done this yet but its in my future so I read everything on it I can.

One of the best tips I've read is to make a template for each line you're going to bend using a straightened coat hanger. Then by all means buy a GOOD bender and make a short 90 degree "master" bend with a mark on it for where to place the line in the bender so you'll not makes bends SLIGHTLY too long or too short.

I'm planning on using the pre-made straight lines from NAPA whenever possible - hopefully ALL of them.

[Dan in Pasadena]

rollingrooster - REALLY nice job.

Some questions:

Did you pull the line through a plywood template to straighten the loops without risking kinking it?

What brand/kind of flaring tool and bender did you use?

Hard to see your little clips securing the line to the frame. What are they? Any close up photo?

[rollinrooster]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

rollingrooster - REALLY nice job.

Some questions:

Did you pull the line through a plywood template to straighten the loops without risking kinking it?

What brand/kind of flaring tool and bender did you use?

Hard to see your little clips securing the line to the frame. What are they? Any close up photo?

Thanks, a good friend of mine ownes a top notch hotrod shop. He gave me some advice and let me borrow some brake tools.

As for the little clips they are made by Allstar and come in all sizes.

[Denee007]

Good grief that looks nice! Helps to have the body off too! I'd say yes to a really good tubing bender, and one that makes really tight turns~ just another tool for the tool box! Bending tubing require a higher level of intelligence! lol

[_Ogre]

i got lucky and used the same flaring tool as roolingrooster posted. with ss lines that tool is the cats meow. i bought a ss straight line kit and supplemented it with short straight line segments. i'm not a fan of the rolls, it's hard to make a straight line down the frame.