Replacing the flex plate

[1tonchevy]

Replacing my flex plate tomorrow. Whats the easiest way to do it? Slide trans back wards or motor forward? Im thinking the trans :/ but not sure
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[Tx Firefighter]

Transmission back. No doubt.
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[jjzepplin]

x2 for sure!

[Gates72ss]

i agree , drop drive shaft and slide trans back.... Just replaced one in my truck this week...

[1tonchevy]

Thanks guys! Ill keep ya posted on how it goes!
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[88Jimmy4x4]

You guys ever have issues changing these since they aren't balance matched with rotating assembly? Like too much run out?
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[Gates72ss]

If you have a internally balanced engine you should have no issues by just getting the proper flex plate or your truck , motor year etc...


for externally balanced..

"if there is no counterbalance weight on the flywheel just take it and have it balanced by itself. If there is a counterbalance weight welded to the flywheel take the new one and bolt the old one to it only with the balance weight on the opposite side. then balance the two together but only adding or subtracting weight from the new plate. when finished the new plate will match the old one"

[Tx Firefighter]

No. Changed many, many flex plates in the dealership, independent shops, and my own shop. Never an issue. I use Pioneer brand flex plates from the parts store. Bolt them on and put it back together.
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[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

No. Changed many, many flex plates in the dealership, independent shops, and my own shop. Never an issue. I use Pioneer brand flex plates from the parts store. Bolt them on and put it back together.
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Okay I was just curious, when I had my 350 rotating assembly balanced they asked me to bring new flex too and I could see where they removed some material from the weight thats welded on it....mine was pioneer too.

[Tx Firefighter]

It sounds like your engine build is well above the level of a stock engine. On a driver with a generic engine, a little bit of unbalance isn't noticeable. With your balanced rotating assembly, you've got more investment than most folks, who just want their starter to catch smoothly and not make horrible noises.
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[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

It sounds like your engine build is well above the level of a stock engine. On a driver with a generic engine, a little bit of unbalance isn't noticeable. With your balanced rotating assembly, you've got more investment than most folks, who just want their starter to catch smoothly and not make horrible noises.
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Okay maybe so, I always wanted to ask you about this
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[Blackpony]

id suggest taking the old flexplate and the new one to the machinest and have him match them up.

[Tx Firefighter]

You're not the average Joe since you ponied up to have your stuff balanced. Most people out there on the road wouldn't notice any vibration as long as they can still see to text on their smartphone while driving in traffic.
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[88Jimmy4x4]

Lol

I had USA racing engines (wop shop) do the machine/ balance work but my buddy and I assembled everything

Back to flex plates. Is it better to buy an SFI since its thicker and probably have less run out?

[motornut]

Originally Posted by 1tonchevy

Replacing my flex plate tomorrow. Whats the easiest way to do it? Slide trans back wards or motor forward? Im thinking the trans :/ but not sure
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took my motor out ,not the easiest way....tranny back usally is

[kalbert]

Runout isn't a real big issue on a flex plate... they are supposed to flex. They'll take whatever shape the torque converter mounting points have and bend to allow movement between the engine and transmission under varying conditions. You don't mention the torque converter, if you're concerned about flex plate balance you should be matching that to the engine as well. Really though, a properly balanced engine is the most important and it sounds like you have that. Matching the torque converter and flex plate are crossing over into diminishing returns. Unless you need the SFI rating for passing inspection, or you do things that would put it under race like stress, it's not necessary.

[1tonchevy]

Project flex plate was completed today buddy came to help and was done in a few hours. And went incrediably smooth. Old teeth were rounded and tapered inward. Ie not flat across like the new plate.
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[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by 1tonchevy

Project flex plate was completed today buddy came to help and was done in a few hours. And went incrediably smooth. Old teeth were rounded and tapered inward. Ie not flat across like the new plate.
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[1tonchevy]

I take back what i said earlier.... She's back to square one. Trucks back to grinding when I start it. I have more than a few bad words to say about this..... New starter new flex plate im at a loss
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[kalbert]

Have you tried shimming it out a bit?

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by kalbert

Have you tried shimming it out a bit?

Yeah shimed it but it did nothing. Like all the normal things you do to correct this issue doesn't fix the issue
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[mtnsackett]

Originally Posted by 1tonchevy

Yeah shimed it but it did nothing. Like all the normal things you do to correct this issue doesn't fix the issue
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I had an issue like that with an Isuzu rodeo turned out it was the starter it had a bent shaft. Napa replaced the starter but no joy with the fly wheel

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by mtnsackett

I had an issue like that with an Isuzu rodeo turned out it was the starter it had a bent shaft. Napa replaced the starter but no joy with the fly wheel

Im goin to pull the starter today. Ill take. Peek thanks
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[1tonchevy]

I have to shave over 1/8th of the starter housing. So that it brings it closer so it actually meshes.
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[rs72z]

[QUOTE=1tonchevy;6034172]I have to shave over 1/8th of the starter housing. So that it brings it closer so it actually meshes.
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Put a thin washer between the housing and the block on the outside bolt only and then check it.

Before someone says that won't work i have to do this on my 15-1 alky injected 434 to keep it from eating up flywheels.