fuel injection hose and clamps instead of Russel quick connects/AN?

[jks67ss396]

Guys

Im about to plumb up my fuel lines on my 5.3 swap. Im using a 95 impala gas tank with a delphi 381 pump. Its a returnless system so i have the wix filter/regulator too.

Im sitting here pricing out russell an to quick connect adapters. 2 5/16s and 4 3/8s adapters at 15 each + teflon lined -6 hose to and from tank/reg and reg/engine. stuff adds up quick.

I see that Summit has a roll of 3/8th stainless line for 50 bucks.

What im wondering is could i just buy the 3/8ths hardline and route that for most of what i need and then where i need flex, just use short pieces of fuel injection rubber hose with double fuel injection clamps (at the filter/reg, at the tank and near the engine)?

I figure that the hose should slip over the quick connect "beads"...

Seems like this would be a much cheaper way of doing this and id have stainless hard line over 90% of the runs...

Think it would work?

thanks guys

[bohmankid]

I don't see why not. I only used fuel injection hose clamps where the hose connects to the sender. Driven about 50 miles so far with no ill effects.

[NONHOG]

On my set up (not GM) I felt uneasy about hoses and clamps on an EFI system.
I ended up going to my local hose shop and had fittings made up.
I think the hose has a good rep, so I'm not being a nay sayer.

Id at least put a flare on the tube ends.
Just giving ideas.

[jks67ss396]

i was thinking of welding a little bead around the lines without quick connect beads. Only the brand new lines would need it, so no fuel residue around welding....

what kind of fittings did your hoses have? that would be great if they had quick connects on them....

keep the reviews coming guys!

thanks

[JJH Jimmy]

I used s.s. hard line. I got a 20' section of .065 wall from a pipe supply house for like $30.00. I also used SwageLok fittings to adapt to the filter and to adapt to the russell proclassic hose and fittings i used to run from the frame rail to the fuel rail. Heres some pictures.

[jks67ss396]

Very nice Jimmy!

Im planning to keep the stock lines from the fuel rails down to the trans. they end up being very close to the frame rail anyway. figured id just use a bit of flex there too...

which swagelocks did you use? AN adapters? to meet the russell hose?

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by jks67ss396

Very nice Jimmy!

Im planning to keep the stock lines from the fuel rails down to the trans. they end up being very close to the frame rail anyway. figured id just use a bit of flex there too...

which swagelocks did you use? AN adapters? to meet the russell hose?

I used 3/8" compression x 1/4" FIP SwageLok fittings and Russell 1/4" MIP x -6AN adapters (pn 660443).

[BR3W CITY]

I used FI rubber hose for a while, just got done finally getting RID of it all. NHRA tracks won't let you run with it, if that matters to you. It ran fine, and I'd do it as a bandaid again without a problem, but I enjoy the matter-of-fact security that the braided and AN setup gives.

Using hardline is fine, I use it for the 6ft main run on my feed and return; I will say that if you run stainless, be careful with compression-fittings. They dig into the line to create a tight seal, and the hard and brittle nature of stainless means that its possible to either; not get a seal because the ferule did not dig firmly into the line, OR it created a stress crack in the line causing a leak (this pertains to regular brass compression fittings, I have see mane swage-lok and Parker style fittings work just fine configured this way)

[jks67ss396]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I used FI rubber hose for a while, just got done finally getting RID of it all. NHRA tracks won't let you run with it, if that matters to you. It ran fine, and I'd do it as a bandaid again without a problem, but I enjoy the matter-of-fact security that the braided and AN setup gives.

Using hardline is fine, I use it for the 6ft main run on my feed and return; I will say that if you run stainless, be careful with compression-fittings. They dig into the line to create a tight seal, and the hard and brittle nature of stainless means that its possible to either; not get a seal because the ferule did not dig firmly into the line, OR it created a stress crack in the line causing a leak (this pertains to regular brass compression fittings, I have see mane swage-lok and Parker style fittings work just fine configured this way)

Well, my setup would have at most 2 feet of the FI hose. just enough to allow flex between the tank/chassis and the chassis/engine.

if i really tried, i bet i could get the length of rubber hose down to less than a foot total...

not gonna race it...

[ls1nova71]

I've done it that way for years. I put the first step of a double flare on the ends of the hard line to make a bubble so the hose can't slide off, and then put two fuel injection clamps with the screw parts opposite of each other. Never had a problem. My Nova has been doen this way since 2000, and has well over 100k miles on the swap. I keep the rubber hose to a minimum, maybe 6 inches at the flex points. I have also run my '33 at the track, and it's the same way.

[classic70]

That is what I did and it has been working fine for about 400 miles thus far. I plan on replacing it as soon as I save up enough cash.

[jks67ss396]

Did you double flare the fpr/filter ends as well? They come with quick connect barbs..

thanks

[1badcholo]

I purchased Gates FI hose from the local parts store. It states 225 psi working presssure. That should hold my 60psi system with out a problem. My build is on a koolaid budget. I used the factory and some f@rd parts with FI hose clamps. The F@rd fuel reservoir works like a surge tank is so I don't have to modify my factory tank. I also used the factory fuel tank sock (which was new). This is a pic of my mocked up system. The only thing I learned is that I need to install a check valve on my return line to the fuel tank. It's on order. Hopefully this pic comes out.. I'm new to the forum scene.

[BR3W CITY]

I don't know anyone running a check valve on the return line, nor a surge tank of any sort...care to explain?

[dkauffman05]

I have done several swaps with sumitt rubber hose for the entire system even on my dd 68 c10 and have never had a issue.

[jks67ss396]

The surge tank is probably in case the main sump becomes uncovered for a brief moment. acts a buffer for the efi system. Ive seen guys run those little secondary tanks like that. fuel module is a better way to go.

i thought check valves always went on fuel feed to maintain pressure after key is off. i havent seen them on the return either

[1badcholo]

Sorry for the delayed response. The return fuel from my fuel filter goes through the reservoir which continues to feed the fuel pump incase you have fuel slosh and temporarily gets air in the pick up of the factory tank. F@rd used it in the 80-90 in most of thier trucks. It's the easiest and cheapest way I was able to figure out how to avoid modifing the factory set up. Since the return in the fuel tank is not submurged in fuel, it can also pick up fuel from there. So by installing a one way check valve on the return line to the fuel tank, ~$10.00 on ebay, fuel can go back in to the tank but not suck in air.