I need some radiator help please

[gofastnut]

Hi guys,
I'm wanting to put a bigger radiator in Ole Brownie, but not sure about sizes.
Did they use the same size hole in the rad support, or were there different sizes? My dad Okey'd a different radiator in there, so I have no idea how the old one looked or connected to everything, except the hoses.
6 cyl vs V8 differences?

[gofastnut]

Pictures would be great!

[Sharps40]

If you have a six you can install the larger V8 Radiator from Advance for all the cooling capacity and more than an I6 would ever need. See the Official John Lee Jr thread below... You 'll need V8 top clamp and bottom metal/V8 rubbers and Home made or factory V8 air deflectors. I suppose you could also home make V8 top clamp and bottom metal...

Start at post 107.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=571916

[gofastnut]

Thanks Sharps!
I didn't see any pictures when I looked at that page of your build, just thought it was a little mess up. Had to go back and change the settings of the "net nanny"
Thanks for the info!
I can see now I'm gonna need to buy/fab some air deflectors. Probably fab, since I'm always broke!

[Sharps40]

Air deflectors are easy. Get some sheet aluminium or sheet steel from lowes or local supply house. Cut and bend to shape. You can add rubber trim to the air deflectors from one of the parts houses or cut strips from inner-tubes or leave the rubber trim off or whatever. Paint or polish and install.

Have fun. I really like the big V8 radiator on my 230 I6. Its been 92+ here and no worries at all on the hwy or in traffic.

[gofastnut]

Sharps,
When I ran it in the parade last Friday, it slowly but surely crept up to 210 and stayed there. I don't like it running that warm, so I'm gonna see what I can do.
I've gotta get some $$$ together first. Getting the old girl back on the road severly depleted my meager savings...

[Sharps40]

Well, before ya dump a buncha coin, check the obvious cheep stuff first.

Idle/Run mixtures

Timing - static thru 3000 RPM

leak in headgasket/bubbles in radiator/milkey oil

Dwell

Points condition

Mech Advance on dizzy

Vacuum Advance on dizzy

Oil pressure

Thermostat condition

Filth in the block

Hose condition//spongy, collapsing

Belt tension, glaze, etc

Water pump play and condition

Worn out/dirty coolant

Radiator core old/thin, even though not leaking

Radiator cap rating and actual function

Add an over flow tank for another 2 to 3 quarts capacity in the top of the rad w/o it puking it out on the ground all the time

Exhaust manifold heat riser stuck in closed or partly closed position

Restricted exhaust

Dragging brakes

Slipping clutch

Improperly adjusted valves

Gage and sending unit condition and associated wireing resistance.

Then....consider a radiator swap.

But, 210 w/o steam or a popped hose/core in traffic riding the clutch and lugging the motor ain't bad in my book. Perfectly within the no boil range of 50/50 glycol/water a 160 to 180 stat on a hot day with a 12 to 16 lb cap. If it cools back to stat temp when ya start moving and doesn't die or boil over when lugging, you might not have much of a problem

[gofastnut]

Idle/Run mixtures

Timing - static thru 3000 RPM
leak in headgasket/bubbles in radiator/milkey oil--check, no
Dwell
Points condition--check, new
Mech Advance on dizzy
Vacuum Advance on dizzy
Oil pressure--check, good
Thermostat condition--check, new
Filth in the block--Flushed block once a month ago, will recheck
Hose condition//spongy, collapsing--check, no
Belt tension, glaze, etc--check and oooh, will replace belt
Water pump play and condition--check, no play, but 25 yrs old.
Worn out/dirty coolant--check, new coolant
Radiator core old/thin, even though not leaking--check, good possibility.
Radiator cap rating and actual function--check, cap is good, coolant doesn't bubble out
Add an over flow tank for another 2 to 3 quarts capacity in the top of the rad w/o it puking it out on the ground all the time--check, no puke
Exhaust manifold heat riser stuck in closed or partly closed position--hmmmm
Restricted exhaust--doubt it, but will check.
Dragging brakes--check, brakes OK
Slipping clutch--check and no. It was professionally installed by this here amatuer 10 yrs ago!
Improperly adjusted valves--hmmm, valve adjustment on this may be like putting up a new flagpole on a condemned building.
Gage and sending unit condition and associated wireing resistance.--check. hit with IR temp gun.
Then....consider a radiator swap.

But, 210 w/o steam or a popped hose/core in traffic riding the clutch and lugging the motor ain't bad in my book. Perfectly within the no boil range of 50/50 glycol/water a 160 to 180 stat on a hot day with a 12 to 16 lb cap. If it cools back to stat temp when ya start moving and doesn't die or boil over when lugging, you might not have much of a problem.

Sheesh, talk about a complete check list! Thanks Sharps! It goes to 210 and stays there, no matter what. So I will be doing the above things that I haven't "checked" off and see if that helps.
Thanks for the info, keep you posted.

[Sharps40]

Sorry, I said my radiator was from Autozone...it ain't, its from Advance. Use code P20 on your internet order for 20% off up to 50 bucks. Will qualify for free shipping and should arrive at your door under $200 for a nice brass core/brass tank V8 radiator with three tubes in the core.

But that's lotsa coin plus the clamps/rubbers, etc...so, a few free checks to be sure the heating ain't being caused by another much cheeper weak link.

Sides, when yer done, it'll be tuned like a Rolex watch.

[gofastnut]

I've got to look at the heat riser. Vac and mechanical advance both work fine. Found a recently replace wheel cylinder leaking, but brakes aren't dragging.
As far as a new radiator, I'm gonna check and see how big of a radiator I can stuff in there, I don't want to buy one, then do it again when I go Big Block.

[Sharps40]

Prolly one of the big 3 or 4 tube aluminum ones for the V8s then. Still might have to fab mounts upper and lower though.

[gofastnut]

I'll have to fab mounts. I'm not afraid of fabbing, just not that good at it!
Hey Sharps, great looking truck by the way!
And thanks for all your help.
We're having a get together in Vacaville, CA September 15. You oughta stop by

[Irishbleueyes]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

Hi guys,
I'm wanting to put a bigger radiator in Ole Brownie, but not sure about sizes.
Did they use the same size hole in the rad support, or were there different sizes? My dad Okey'd a different radiator in there, so I have no idea how the old one looked or connected to everything, except the hoses.
6 cyl vs V8 differences?

What temp is that thermostat you put in? Get a bigger fan blade with more blades. Use thermo fan clutch with it.

[gofastnut]

Originally Posted by Irishbleueyes

What temp is that thermostat you put in? Get a bigger fan blade with more blades. Use thermo fan clutch with it.

I dropped in a 160. Went with a new 18" flex fan, but don't have a shroud. Thinking about making one out of an old Havoline sign I have.

I'm going to go with an automatic when I go Big Block, but I will run a gigantic trans cooler.

I'm hoping the riser's stuck in the open position too! I won't drive it in weather cold enough to freeze a carb! Specially since I'm gonna pull the heater and run it that way til I get an AC!

[Irishbleueyes]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

I dropped in a 160. Went with a new 18" flex fan, but don't have a shroud. Thinking about making one out of an old Havoline sign I have.

I'm going to go with an automatic when I go Big Block, but I will run a gigantic trans cooler.

I'm hoping the riser's stuck in the open position too! I won't drive it in weather cold enough to freeze a carb! Specially since I'm gonna pull the heater and run it that way til I get an AC!

A shroud will drop that easily 20 degrees..

[Sharps40]

John Lee is ready and able to make the trip. I have utmost confidence but our first trip together will be more conservative...to the low country of SC next month for a week of Sporting Clays and Bonfires and Beeeeeeer.

Then two trips south to the low country for opening of SC deer season in Sept and Oct, then off to Neuse River area of NC for more Deer, and then the Sandhills for more deer and then.......prolly start makin up a teardrop camp trailer for cross country trips next year.

Cali would be nice, would love to run the full length of the coast highway.

[gofastnut]

Sheesh! You've got some windshield time planned!
I'd love to run the coast highway too, if all the knuckleheads got off and let this knucklehead have it too himself!

BTW, gonna pull of the exh pipe and look up into the manifold to see if the heat riser is stuck open or closed.

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

Sheesh! You've got some windshield time planned!
I'd love to run the coast highway too, if all the knuckleheads got off and let this knucklehead have it too himself!

BTW, gonna pull of the exh pipe and look up into the manifold to see if the heat riser is stuck open or closed.

Well, you don't need to pull the pipe to do that just to see if its stuck. Look at the heat riser counter weight on the outside of the mainiflold and try to turn it. Its prolly frozen in place but with luck its frozen open half way or more. To see how much open or closed, yeah, might have to pull the pipe. If so, might as well have new studs/packing and brass nuts handy.

Personnally, I like it when they are stuck open...no worries ever cause it don't get cold enough to freeze up a carb here in Gods Country!

[gofastnut]

Sheesh! You've got some windshield time planned!
I'd love to run the coast highway too, if all the knuckleheads got off and let this knucklehead have it too himself!

BTW, gonna pull of the exh pipe and look up into the manifold to see if the heat riser is stuck open or closed.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

Sheesh! You've got some windshield time planned!
I'd love to run the coast highway too, if all the knuckleheads got off and let this knucklehead have it too himself!

BTW, gonna pull of the exh pipe and look up into the manifold to see if the heat riser is stuck open or closed.

Regardless wherever you find the heat riser stuck, it should still be freed up. This may work and save a little time/labor: using penetrating oil and a small hammer, lightly tap the heat riser shaft back-and-forth, spraying pen. fluid on the shaft at each position where ends exit thru ex. pipe. In between shaft taps, lightly tap on weighted flap, underneath, in both directions. Try and avoid direct hits on the thermostat/spring.

TRICK is to use light taps and let lubricant do the work! Numerous LIGHT taps are much more effective than fewer heavy taps!
HTH,
Sam

[gofastnut]

What do you think about this? It won't have a problem cooling down the little six. Think it'll work cooling off a 500hp big block?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380325/overview/

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

What do you think about this? It won't have a problem cooling down the little six. Think it'll work cooling off a 500hp big block?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380325/overview/

Hey, Jeff, are you going with a stick shift? I just noticed that one has no trans. cooler!?
Sam

[gofastnut]

So Luvbowties,
Pulling the pipe and ramming something fierce into the heat riser area would be a no-no?
Just kiddin! I'm going to pull the pipe so I can peek up in there. If it's stuck open (doubt it) I'll leave it. If it's stuck closed, I'll gently work it free. Then probly put a spot weld on it to hold it open.

[Sharps40]

Heck, leave the heater in. If its functional, its like haveing a small spare radiator in an emergency.

[gofastnut]

There we go Sharps!
When it's 100 degrees outside, I'll make it 150 inside and sweat my way to a thinner me! I can feel the beads of persperation forming as I type!
But seriously, I've run the heater full blast when mom & dad's car was on the verge of overheating. It kept the temp down just enough for me to get it to the shop, and it was back downhill. It was hotter than H E double hocky sticks for that 6 miles though!