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11-27-2013, 03:10 PM | #1 |
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Engine Mounts
I am swapping in a L92/LS3 into my 1968 C10. I am doing away with the fan and radiator shroud and installing electric fans. How forward can I move the the LS engine and still have a correct mount up and alignment for the turbo 400 transmission I am using? To me I do have a little bit of room to move forward but 3 inches seems like to much?
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11-27-2013, 03:42 PM | #2 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
If you're willing to move the crossmember and shift linkage, the answer is, "Until you bang into the fans."
Was this originally a six cylinder? The mounts are in the six cylinder location.
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Matt Cramer 1972 Chevy C10 - 4.8 swap, long bed, and maybe one dent free body panel somewhere - SOLD 4.8 LS build thread |
11-27-2013, 04:26 PM | #3 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
You want to push the motor forward as little as possible the least amount of weight at the nose of the truck the better. The best place to place the motor for the best handling would be in the cab with you sitting on the air cleaner..lol
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11-27-2013, 04:53 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Engine Mounts
Quote:
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11-27-2013, 06:26 PM | #5 | |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
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Location: MKE WI
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Re: Engine Mounts
Quote:
The 4l80e for example has large "ears" which can come very close to the collector pipe. There are 2 sensors on the back of the engine block, as well as the rear 2 coil packs, which can be an interference issue if the engine is set way back. Also, the engine is supposed to have an amount of downward tilt to the rear (3-4*). With the engine too forward or too aft, this can be trickier because of clearances to the tranny hump or the position of the trans mount.
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11-28-2013, 04:40 AM | #6 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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Re: Engine Mounts
A mock up, would be the best way to tell....but my thoughts? If you run the 400 turbo, I would set the trans in in the stock location, with the engine bolted to it & do some measurements. There are many options on mounts/stands , that will fit the variables.I Agree with BRCW CITY, that the headers will be the hardest part to fit. You may find that you need aftermarket (tubular) engine stands, or late model (73-87) style mounts/stands for clearance on the headers? Best of fun...Longhorn
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
11-28-2013, 06:49 AM | #7 | |
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Re: Engine Mounts
Quote:
A tranny cross member is easy to build so I would find where you want the motor to sit and bolted up and then build a new trans x member. I really like the look of tubular motor mount stands and ditch the factory one. Take your time and don't rush it and you will save some money. If your like me when I get an idea a rush rush rush and end up spending 3x what it should of cost.lol |
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11-27-2013, 04:36 PM | #8 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
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11-28-2013, 09:47 AM | #9 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
Use the dirty dingo mounts and you wil have 3" of fore and aft movement. Look at my 68 build thread. I have my engine sitting as far back you can go without hitting the firewall. With the same engine mounts and oil pan, I could have moved the whole setup 3" forward.
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 Last edited by Hart_Rod; 11-28-2013 at 09:53 AM. |
11-29-2013, 03:42 AM | #10 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
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Re: Engine Mounts
Oil pan....the stock truck pan will fit many apps/positions, but it does hang a couple inches below the eng crossmember? I opted for a GMPP hotrod pan kit (basiacally an H-3 hummer pan. You will loose about 1 q capacity, dropping the truck pan, but this pan will fit pretty much any position? Also, @ 150 bones, for the kit (pan,complete, with gasket/pickup tube/O-ring/dipstick tube, & all hardware, including the tray), it was a smoking deal ! Try Summit, Jegs, or Pace performance on the parts? Longhorn
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
12-02-2013, 01:08 AM | #11 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
Hey longhorn, my 5.3 in my 68 c10 with my own motor mount perches puts the truck pan about 1 1/2-2'' below the cross member, and the low sump area is almost rubbing on the cross member, maybe 1/2". Does this sound like where you were at before the hummer pan? I'm about to pull the motor soon and was going to mark the area to be sectioned out and modify the pick up tube, etc. I'm also going to try and put the factory a/c bracket that sits low on the passenger side of the block down low, so i will need to deal with a couple of stand-offs on the side of the pan that the compressor bracket bolts to. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance, Brian F
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12-02-2013, 03:39 AM | #12 | |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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Re: Engine Mounts
Quote:
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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11-29-2013, 10:05 PM | #13 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
H-3 pan.... Or your local GM dealer. You might be surprised at the price
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12-02-2013, 01:47 AM | #14 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
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Location: MKE WI
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Re: Engine Mounts
Sounds about right. With the H3 pan, that clearance to the sump will be about the same 1/2-3/4", but the pan will hang about even with the crossmember +/- ~1/2. Depending on the mounts and perches.
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'66 Short Step / SD Tuned / Big Cam LQ4 / Backhalfed /Built 4l80e / #REBUILDEVERYTHING MY BUILD THE H8RDCPTR //\\ MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL REV J HD
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12-02-2013, 10:19 AM | #15 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
Here's a good thread on engine mounts and LS oil pans:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=272174
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
12-03-2013, 02:19 PM | #16 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
WOW!!! Thanks for the comments. This is the first thread that has responded to any of my questions. I guess I had chosen poorly before…
As for what I am reading the LS engines sit far lower that the Gen 1 engines whereas the 1/3 and 2/4 exhaust header tubes must make a quick turn and travel for a few inches before turning down and heading towards the collector without impacting with frame rails and the motor mounts? As well the oil pan must sit close the crank to clear the cross member which in turn pushed the pan reservoir below the cross member. However, with the cam I am installing and the rework of the heads I am using an aftermarket high volume oil pump would really like to use the aftermarket oil pan to gain an extra qt of oil. I have seen some pictures of long tube headers used with a LS engine in a C10 pickup but have never been able to get a part number or manufacturer of the for mentioned headers. BR3W CITY you are saying that the only thing I need to worry about on the clearance between the firewall and the engine is the O2 sensors and crazy longhorn you are saying that I should use the later model engine mounts to help with clearance issues. hellbent72 you are saying that you have much better luck with tubular mounts. However, which motor mount holes should I use? The front set or the back set? I know that moving the engine forward to the front set of motor mount holes made a big difference to the big block we used in one of my friends trucks. My mounts were set in the front holes from the factory; I always had clearance between the distributer and the firewall. I know that the LS does not have to deal with the distributer. Is there a preference for the LS engines? Hart_Rod you are saying that the dirty dingo mounts worked better for you. Are they the single short fine thread bolt from rubber to mount or do they use the long std thread bolt through the rubber type? So what if I extend the motor mounts up? Would that fix some of the header problems and for sure help the pan issues as well as keep the 3-4 tilt to the rear. Apparently, there will be plenty of room between the turbo 400 and the firewall with having trouble keeping the 3-4 tilt on the LS engine mount up. These are just guess-to-mations. Please correct me if any of these ideas will cause problems or have been tried before and failed. Thank you for all the help |
12-03-2013, 06:40 PM | #17 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
I used the front holes in the frame with tubular mounts and dirty dingo sliders.. works great.. only problem with the sliders you can't use the ac compressor in the stock location. But you can buy a bracket and move the compressor up... The sliders are awesome, due to i didn't have to do anything to the driveshaft..
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=494388 431 big block times, changed to a 6.0 ls with turbo 1.58- 60' 7.18- 1/8th mile@95.18 11.37- 1/4 @115.81 |
12-04-2013, 03:04 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Engine Mounts
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12-03-2013, 08:48 PM | #19 | |||||
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
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Re: Engine Mounts
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The res in the pan hangs over due it its size, and also the angle which it sits in the cradle on these trucks. If you want more capacity without more depth, you'd have to modify the pan WIDE like some of older custom Moroso pans (or spend big $$ and convert to dry sump). Quote:
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12-03-2013, 09:28 PM | #20 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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Re: Engine Mounts
I think I also would try to maintain that 3-4 degree angle (don't raise the nose too high)? As far as stands,my thoughts are that you will have better clearance with the headers tubes, with either the 73 up style stands/mounts, OR aftermarket tubular stands? Still by far, the easiest way to tell, is mock it up, & measure .....see what you need to make all the pcs fit Longhorn
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
12-04-2013, 02:52 PM | #21 |
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Re: Engine Mounts
[quote=BR3W CITY;6400374]I find that hard to believe, especially on this forum...for the main reason that I post on 95% on questions in this section. Did you post your other questions here in "LSX"?
I was not using this forum at first. I am now and the heck with that other one. This forum is cool, I get to talk to people that are working on what I am working on and get responses. |
12-04-2013, 06:35 PM | #22 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
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Re: Engine Mounts
I'm glad you've had better luck in this department, and please don't take my little g-check about posting in this section, the wrong way. The only reason I asked is that in this area, we have a few members (myself included) that work really hard to make this the best place for LS swaps on the internet (not just for these trucks). If you weren't getting help, I just wanted to find out why. That being said, welcome to the LS section aka my hood.
Wasted Income posted a pic of his frame/drivetrain in another thread on this page, a few spots down. The general idea is that a LWB truck is just a tad too long to run a 1 piece, unless you can run a VERY expensive custom shaft that is a narrower diameter. Your best bet on a budget is to have a good shop make you a thicker-wall 2-piece shaft with HD (non grease) u joints. It will weigh a touch more, but usually they are good up to 6-800hp, with the ujoints and collars being the weak point. Otherwise, you're stepping up to an aluminum shaft, or all the way up to the narrowed shafts that are carbon/carbon-aluminum mated ($800+ easily)
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'66 Short Step / SD Tuned / Big Cam LQ4 / Backhalfed /Built 4l80e / #REBUILDEVERYTHING MY BUILD THE H8RDCPTR //\\ MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL REV J HD
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