Fuse box/ECU

[chevyguy_72]

What fuse box are you guys using for your harness modifications? The stock one is huge... I have seen several of the aftermarket harness that have a small fuse block. Also where are you mounting the fuse block and ECU? I want this to look NICE...
Thanks

[Edge64]

I used one made by Current Performance. It is not that big and worked well for me.

[chevyguy_72]

Originally Posted by Edge64

I used one made by Current Performance. It is not that big and worked well for me.

you have a link or pics of your install?

[Edge64]

I do but I"ll have to post them when i get home from work.

[Dustytrix]

Look at lt1swap.com its a web page with lots of info including part number for the small fuse block.

[LS-K]

I'm looking to start working on my electrical set up, can anyone tell me the reason/benefits for having a fuse panel in your electrical LSX set up. Not being a jackass by asking, just looking for info. thank you.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by LS-K

I'm looking to start working on my electrical set up, can anyone tell me the reason/benefits for having a fuse panel in your electrical LSX set up. Not being a jackass by asking, just looking for info. thank you.

To keep from having an involuntary car-be-que? Seriously though, you NEED fuses and relays, and a small fuse box keeps them all together in one tidy place.

[BR3W CITY]

I will gladly encourage anyone to tackle simplifying the BODY harness on early trucks. The wires are old, many of the flashers and relays can be swapped out with better more functional devices, and you can eliminate thoughtless wiring (thus making the whole thing cleaner and more ready to interface with the LSX). We built the body harness from scratch, getting it down to only a few wires here and there. WHY? Because my STOCK fusebox tried to light itself on fire. Too many bad splices and add-a-circuits from the previous owner.

You can buy a reproduction fuseblock, or just buy a basic hot rod fuseblock with nice clean panel and relays, and start from scratch. It takes time but it isn't hard.


NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID; engine wiring is a different story. Were no longer just modifying a few wires, we are modifying (in some cases) a whole harness. While there are plenty of guides, and it is doable, I happily advise against doing so. Take this into account, since I just admitted we had NO problem redoing the whole body harness.

Engine wiring is large runs of lots of wires, many of which are similarly colored, and setup different year to year. Then, start to subtract all the things you won't be using, while still making sure to keep all functional circuits in place AND do so in a manner that uses the best of the wiring runs and lays out the cleanest (in one try?!) Then, take into account and mis-matched or aftermarket stuff which may have its own conversions harness. This includes using a different tranny or different style injectors etc.

Do all of that from instructions and a multimeter. Then, hope you got it right at least from a physical standpoint. Not a single pinched, shorted or grounded wire in close to a thousand feet of wire. If you do have a problem, it could lead to anything from an engine fire, to a random catastrophic failure like loss of dbw control, and on and one. Then consider that if that doesn't happen, you could still chase down tiny little issues that are like gremlins.

We have had some VERY skilled members attempt very high tech swaps, with very good resources at hand. And even then, there are little tiny things in wiring and tuning that can be very tough to track down. When you take all of that into account, 450-650 for a brand new, scratch build and loomed harness that is perfectly setup for your truck and its combination of parts....really is a good value. Add to that most of them include pre-setup fuse and relay block and easy interfaces to the charging/ignition and interior electronics.

Oh and wiring the truck from a pre-setup harness takes 2 dudes about 2 hours while sipping cold ones in the garage.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I will gladly encourage anyone to tackle simplifying the BODY harness on early trucks. The wires are old, many of the flashers and relays can be swapped out with better more functional devices, and you can eliminate thoughtless wiring (thus making the whole thing cleaner and more ready to interface with the LSX). We built the body harness from scratch, getting it down to only a few wires here and there. WHY? Because my STOCK fusebox tried to light itself on fire. Too many bad splices and add-a-circuits from the previous owner.

You can buy a reproduction fuseblock, or just buy a basic hot rod fuseblock with nice clean panel and relays, and start from scratch. It takes time but it isn't hard.


NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID; engine wiring is a different story. Were no longer just modifying a few wires, we are modifying (in some cases) a whole harness. While there are plenty of guides, and it is doable, I happily advise against doing so. Take this into account, since I just admitted we had NO problem redoing the whole body harness.

Engine wiring is large runs of lots of wires, many of which are similarly colored, and setup different year to year. Then, start to subtract all the things you won't be using, while still making sure to keep all functional circuits in place AND do so in a manner that uses the best of the wiring runs and lays out the cleanest (in one try?!) Then, take into account and mis-matched or aftermarket stuff which may have its own conversions harness. This includes using a different tranny or different style injectors etc.

Do all of that from instructions and a multimeter. Then, hope you got it right at least from a physical standpoint. Not a single pinched, shorted or grounded wire in close to a thousand feet of wire. If you do have a problem, it could lead to anything from an engine fire, to a random catastrophic failure like loss of dbw control, and on and one. Then consider that if that doesn't happen, you could still chase down tiny little issues that are like gremlins.

We have had some VERY skilled members attempt very high tech swaps, with very good resources at hand. And even then, there are little tiny things in wiring and tuning that can be very tough to track down. When you take all of that into account, 450-650 for a brand new, scratch build and loomed harness that is perfectly setup for your truck and its combination of parts....really is a good value. Add to that most of them include pre-setup fuse and relay block and easy interfaces to the charging/ignition and interior electronics.

Oh and wiring the truck from a pre-setup harness takes 2 dudes about 2 hours while sipping cold ones in the garage.

Well said! I couldn't agree more.
This is my stand along with fuses.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I will gladly encourage anyone to tackle simplifying the BODY harness on early trucks. The wires are old, many of the flashers and relays can be swapped out with better more functional devices, and you can eliminate thoughtless wiring (thus making the whole thing cleaner and more ready to interface with the LSX). We built the body harness from scratch, getting it down to only a few wires here and there. WHY? Because my STOCK fusebox tried to light itself on fire. Too many bad splices and add-a-circuits from the previous owner.

You can buy a reproduction fuseblock, or just buy a basic hot rod fuseblock with nice clean panel and relays, and start from scratch. It takes time but it isn't hard.


NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID; engine wiring is a different story. Were no longer just modifying a few wires, we are modifying (in some cases) a whole harness. While there are plenty of guides, and it is doable, I happily advise against doing so. Take this into account, since I just admitted we had NO problem redoing the whole body harness.

Engine wiring is large runs of lots of wires, many of which are similarly colored, and setup different year to year. Then, start to subtract all the things you won't be using, while still making sure to keep all functional circuits in place AND do so in a manner that uses the best of the wiring runs and lays out the cleanest (in one try?!) Then, take into account and mis-matched or aftermarket stuff which may have its own conversions harness. This includes using a different tranny or different style injectors etc.

Do all of that from instructions and a multimeter. Then, hope you got it right at least from a physical standpoint. Not a single pinched, shorted or grounded wire in close to a thousand feet of wire. If you do have a problem, it could lead to anything from an engine fire, to a random catastrophic failure like loss of dbw control, and on and one. Then consider that if that doesn't happen, you could still chase down tiny little issues that are like gremlins.

We have had some VERY skilled members attempt very high tech swaps, with very good resources at hand. And even then, there are little tiny things in wiring and tuning that can be very tough to track down. When you take all of that into account, 450-650 for a brand new, scratch build and loomed harness that is perfectly setup for your truck and its combination of parts....really is a good value. Add to that most of them include pre-setup fuse and relay block and easy interfaces to the charging/ignition and interior electronics.

Oh and wiring the truck from a pre-setup harness takes 2 dudes about 2 hours while sipping cold ones in the garage.

Wise one you are, .

[TR65]

I got this one off e-bay, used in a Texas Highway Patrol Car to power all their electrical stuff. I wanted to fuse the LS2 exactly like the OE and this one had room for that. I was more interested in easy access than looks as you can see. But it works well and I powered the old truck harness off one of the big circuits in this box so it controls the whole truck.

TR

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by TR65

I got this one off e-bay, used in a Texas Highway Patrol Car to power all their electrical stuff. I wanted to fuse the LS2 exactly like the OE and this one had room for that. I was more interested in easy access than looks as you can see. But it works well and I powered the old truck harness off one of the big circuits in this box so it controls the whole truck.

TR

Dang it man!
Where have you been hiding at? We need some pictures of the truck dude!