Lowering Questions

[Desert.Chevy]

I have been looking and asking question in a bunch of different threads, and have not seen any really good or proven answers.

Is there a point when lowering a 1964-1966 Cheverolet C10 that you need a adjustable track bar?

What is the point in inch's when lowering a 1964-1966 Chevrolet C10 will you need a frame C-Notch?

Thanks.

[Tx Firefighter]

Adjustable track bar needed when lowered >3 inches

C notch when lowered >6 inches

[SCOTI]

My personal opinion is an adjustable Panhard should be used w/any drop. If going over 3" of drop, I would recommend swapping to the 'long' aftermarket (or home-built) set-ups to minimize side shift (the longer the bar, the less side shift).

C-notches when over 5" of drop.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Adjustable track bar needed when lowered >3 inches

C notch when lowered >6 inches

Agreed
I would also recommend that on any drop over 4" to buy a shock relocation kit to get the shocks back to the correct angle.

Also remember that the higher in drop you go on the rear coils, the mushier the ride is going to be. If you plan to use the truck for light hauling use, you may want to consider a coil spring/lowering block combination to get the drop number you need. One of our board members (Boris, aka: way2lo2) sells an excellent solid billet aluminum lowering block and u-bolt kit that is substantially stronger than the extruded aluminum blocks you see on ebay. I think Boris sells them in 1" and 2" versions. I wouldn't use a 3" block because it could cause scrub issues if you ever lost a rear tire.

I always double-check the pinion/driveshaft/transmission angle every time I lower a vehicle and add shims as required. Some vehicles I have done required shims, and some didn't, but it's always good to check.

[Desert.Chevy]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Agreed
I would also recommend that on any drop over 4" to buy a shock relocation kit to get the shocks back to the correct angle.

Also remember that the higher in drop you go on the rear coils, the mushier the ride is going to be. If you plan to use the truck for light hauling use, you may want to consider a coil spring/lowering block combination to get the drop number you need. One of our board members (Boris, aka: way2lo2) sells an excellent solid billet aluminum lowering block and u-bolt kit that is substantially stronger than the extruded aluminum blocks you see on ebay. I think Boris sells them in 1" and 2" versions. I wouldn't use a 3" block because it could cause scrub issues if you ever lost a rear tire.

I always double-check the pinion/driveshaft/transmission angle every time I lower a vehicle and add shims as required. Some vehicles I have done required shims, and some didn't, but it's always good to check.

Thanks for the Information. I will have to look for way2lo2 thread for his Blocks.



What is a Good Quality company to buy
Lowering springs front and rear = ?
Shocks for lowerd truck = ?
Blocks = way2lo2
Track Bar = ?
Frame C-Notch = ?

[Desert.Chevy]

Ok, thanks for both of your answers.

I have been thinking about 3" Front Springs with 4" Rear Springs.

At what point in lowering a 1964-1966 Chevrolet C10 do you need Rear axle shims, or angle shims?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Desert.Chevy

Ok, thanks for both of your answers.

I have been thinking about 3" Front Springs with 4" Rear Springs.

At what point in lowering a 1964-1966 Chevrolet C10 do you need Rear axle shims, or angle shims?

Why did you pic these numbers?
Just remember that these springs are 3" and 4" shorter than brand new replacement stock height springs.
Not your 40+ year old sagging springs.
So if you just measured your truck and thought is should be 3" shorter in the front,... don't expect these springs to lower YOUR truck by that amount.

I usually tell members to find a truck on here,... that has the drop YOU like,... and drop yours the same amount.
I expect your original springs are sagging at least 1"-2" from stock already.

[lolife99]

www.earlyclassic.com for all your parts.

[N2TRUX]

I suggest you go ahead and do the C-notch and longer track bar. Your going to need it when you lower it more the second time.

[Desert.Chevy]

Originally Posted by lolife99

www.earlyclassic.com for all your parts.

Originally Posted by lolife99

Why did you pic these numbers?
Just remember that these springs are 3" and 4" shorter than brand new replacement stock height springs.
Not your 40+ year old sagging springs.
So if you just measured your truck and thought is should be 3" shorter in the front,... don't expect these springs to lower YOUR truck by that amount.

I usually tell members to find a truck on here,... that has the drop YOU like,... and drop yours the same amount.
I expect your original springs are sagging at least 1"-2" from stock already.

I choose those numbers because I still have Drums up front and have only seen 1''-4'' front drop springs, and 1''-6'' rear drop springs, and 1'' and 2'' Blocks. I have tried to find a truck with the suspention and tire stance that I like but I will keep looking around. Do you know the stock meusrement of the 64-66 c10's, Like Ground to wheel lip. Or know a thread I can look at.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I suggest you go ahead and do the C-notch and longer track bar. Your going to need it when you lower it more the second time.

Thank you for the information. Would you know the length of the trak bar I would need? Who would you recomend for these parts?

Thanks.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Desert.Chevy

I choose those numbers because I still have Drums up front and have only seen 1''-4'' front drop springs, and 1''-6'' rear drop springs, and 1'' and 2'' Blocks. I have tried to find a truck with the suspention and tire stance that I like but I will keep looking around. Do you know the stock meusrement of the 64-66 c10's, Like Ground to wheel lip. Or know a thread I can look at.



Thank you for the information. Would you know the length of the trak bar I would need? Who would you recomend for these parts?

Thanks.

Porterbuilt or No Limits for the 'long' style relocated Panhard bar.
GearBoxGarage for the OE length/position Panhard bar.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=550494

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Desert.Chevy

I choose those numbers because I still have Drums up front and have only seen 1''-4'' front drop springs, and 1''-6'' rear drop springs, and 1'' and 2'' Blocks. I have tried to find a truck with the suspention and tire stance that I like but I will keep looking around. Do you know the stock meusrement of the 64-66 c10's, Like Ground to wheel lip. Or know a thread I can look at.



Thank you for the information. Would you know the length of the trak bar I would need? Who would you recomend for these parts?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Porterbuilt or No Limits for the 'long' style relocated Panhard bar.
GearBoxGarage for the OE length/position Panhard bar.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=550494

These are all great options!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Desert.Chevy

I choose those numbers because I still have Drums up front and have only seen 1''-4'' front drop springs, and 1''-6'' rear drop springs, and 1'' and 2'' Blocks. I have tried to find a truck with the suspention and tire stance that I like but I will keep looking around. Do you know the stock meusrement of the 64-66 c10's, Like Ground to wheel lip. Or know a thread I can look at.

This is all I have,...
http://www.earlyclassic.com/Tech.asp...=Stance+Photos

[Desert.Chevy]

Thank you all for the great information.