60-66 C10 DBW Pedal Setups?

[66LSx]

Majority of the searches I've seen are for the 67-72 (who woulda thunk given the www. right?)

Looking for anyone whose got 60-66 c10 with DBW pedals. Mine (04' silverado 5.3L donor) is the metal one shown below. Our firewalls have no real flat surfaces on it and I'd like to retain the silverado pedal itself (nice action) if at all possible. Ideas? Bueller...bueller?

[TR65]

Here is how I did my 65 but I kept the stock pedal. You could do a similar one and keep the DBW pedal if you wanted.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=300335

TR

[66LSx]

Originally Posted by TR65

Here is how I did my 65 but I kept the stock pedal. You could do a similar one and keep the DBW pedal if you wanted.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=300335

TR

Found your thread TR65 at about 2AM this morning.

I ordered my new OEM pedal and new ball studs at 3AM.

I have 3/8" dia hot rolled rod and some DOM tubing and 3/8" plate stock in my work truck already.

Your a horrible influence on my wallet... but my truck thanks you for your creativity.

[BR3W CITY]

You DIDN'T find the other guy with an LS swapped 66, in the same state...who posts WAY too much, and also has the exact same dbw setup.



I need better pr people.


I didn't retain the stock pedal, but I did start with that metal DBW pedal. There is a good spot on the firewall, even using the dbw's bracket, you just tweak the pedal itself.
We wanted a shorter stalk and shorter action, since I'm tall. We chose to cut the stalk off, and replace it with another piece the length and angle we wanted. Its not hard, just be careful when welding near the sensors on the unit. We used some leftover steel (it was actually a shotgun barrel I cut down), but you can modify the stock one or fab one yourself as well.

[66LSx]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I need better pr people.

Hey now.. I found your posts... and saw you switched to the plastic mounted one...

didn't know you started & finished with the metal DBW.... AND then switched.... (doh)



fail me

(I think my firewall got BFH'd by the previous owner too.... mine is no flat... no beuno)

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by 66LSx

didn't know you started & finished with the metal DBW.... AND then switched.... (doh)

You got it backwards lol, I started with a plastic pedal (2006) and traded it to LS1Nova for the metal pedal (03/4) which I needed. We then modified the metal pedal.



Chrysis- the best way to have extra gun parts is to have plenty of guns.

I did some custom work on my Rem870 Wingmaster, making it an 18" barrel (18.2" in case the ATF has a stretchy ruler). Thusly I had a few extra inches to play with*


*thats what she said.

[TR65]

Good luck 66. Post us up some pics when you get the pedal mounted.

Old truck cleaned my wallet too but it has been worth it!

TR

[Chrysis]

Brew city, how does one end up having spare shotgun barrels lying around to fab parts with? =)

[66LSx]

I cheated.... I took TR65's original approach in regard to keeping the OEM pedal and action....

I took Brew's mounting idea and I'll need to simply relocate my rear light harness exit thru the firewall.

I combined them.


Took the existing OEM carb Z-bar.... cut the end off pedal interface portion and the 90* bend.... welded it to chopped DBW pedal assembly.

Wish I could have simply thought to do both a few days ago. Just needed a bit of beer power. (And to finally cut the OEM pedals apart [both DBW and 66']

Enjoy and thanks for your help guys.


TACKED TEST FIT

OEM 66' PEDAL LINKAGE

[BR3W CITY]

Worked out good man, I got two questions/comments tho;

Did you manage to keep the heat away from the sensors? Its not a huge area to weld, and I don't see huge burn/slag marks or warpage so your probably ok. Can't hurt to take a meter and check that the voltage sweep if you have any concern.

Also, do the two pedal shafts/arms have a good interface? The first pic looks like the bended area right before the arms meet could be gusseted (so going full throttle wouldn't put rotating/sheer force on the welded area). It might just be the angle tho, and after its painted I can't tell.

[66LSx]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Worked out good man, I got two questions/comments tho;

Did you manage to keep the heat away from the sensors? Its not a huge area to weld, and I don't see huge burn/slag marks or warpage so your probably ok. Can't hurt to take a meter and check that the voltage sweep if you have any concern.

Also, do the two pedal shafts/arms have a good interface? The first pic looks like the bended area right before the arms meet could be gusseted (so going full throttle wouldn't put rotating/sheer force on the welded area). It might just be the angle tho, and after its painted I can't tell.

The original pedal linkage was the spoon, up to the 90* and just after the 90* actually flared out. I'll break the original pedal linkage (not going to happen) before I break the weld interface.

I C-clamped 2 aluminum bars onto the DBW pedal swing up above the welded area to tead sink/ block slag at final welding.

Welds then ground clean to reduce any crack propagation chances.

[Houston Ben]

How come I can't see the pics??

[TR65]

Looks factory 66 !! Well done.

TR