Front end isn't level after all new parts. Can't drive it.

[t76turbo]

Just got done installing all new front end stuff on my 70 swb 2wd.

I installed mcgauphys drop spindles, mcgauphys drop springs part number 6082-2 (2 inch), mcgauphy shocks, new ball joints and tie rod ends on the factory control arms. It is all 71-72 parts on the 70 crossmember with disk brakes.

After the install, I noticed it was rubbing the fender liner on the drivers side even driving straight. The truck had a slight lean with the cut springs the PO had installed so I thought they were just sagging and new parts would correct it. Obviously it did not.

So at this point the truck is not drive able. It currently has 15x8 steel wheels front and back with the same size tires. They measure out to be about 29.5 inches tall.

My mechanic friend who helped me install everything verified both springs are in the pockets on the lower control arms and appear centered in the upper pocket.

He measured from the bottom lip of the upper spring pocket to a point on the lower control arm. The passengers side was 4.5 inches. The drivers was 3.5 inches. Almost like the spring isn't in the pocket but it is. And even if it wasn't, all that would mean is the passenger side would drop another inch and rub too.


I don't know what else to note here. Can someone give me some advice on what else could cause the spring height on one side to be an inch less than the other side? The springs appeared the same height uninstalled when I opened the box originally and the part numbers at the same.

At this point I am thinking about trying to find a spring spacer to raise the side that rubs to match the other just to get it back to my house from his where we used his lift.

[panhandler62]

If 1 spring was in upside down that might cause that, but I would think that would be visually apparent on inspection and, like you said; if the spring is an inch taller on one side then fixing that will cause both sides to rub.

A ball joint not seated might have a similar impact but fixing that gets you back to 3.5 on both sides if that is the issue.

It sounds to me like those springs don't work for your application (or the total tire diameter is too much, etc.) but that's just an offhand opinion. Don't go buying anything without waiting for an opinion with more experise than mine.

[t76turbo]

Thanks for the input.

Springs are definitely in the right way. Ball joints are all seated.

I searched a lot last night and some threads popped up that talked about possible frame tweaked causing an issue like this. There is no evidence whatsoever that this truck was ever wrecked with frame damage etc. The control arms look good and don’t look to have taken a hit. Same with the cross member.

If the springs both yielded the same overall height I would feel pretty comfortable that a frame tweak was the issue and could just bring it to a frame shop and get it tweaked back to where it needs to be. But I just don’t understand why measuring left and right sides reflect the 1 inch different spring heights. Almost like a cup on one control arm is deeper than another.


I found some spring spacers I may order just to get it drivable. I was going to do air bags on the truck anyway. Already have them on the back from the previous owner. Based on the piecemeal status of everything I have seen so far, I have a porterbuilt stage 1 rear bag kit waiting to go in along with porterbuilt adjustable track bar. This may just speed up my plan to get the bags in the front.

[RexDodge]

Don't forget to check the rear as well. If the opposite rear corner is high it will drive that opposite front corner low. You mentioned the po had installed rear bags. Eliminate that from the equation.

[t76turbo]

I will definitely double check where the rear sits. I know the opposite corner on the rear (right rear) was slightly higher when we measured yesterday. But I will inspect it more thoroughly when I get over to his house.

The air bags are plumbed together so they would tend to self-level (in other words, each isn’t controlled independently so one isn’t jacked higher than the other). But I will take specific measurements to help insure there isnt a difference that could contribute to the left rear being higher therefore pushing the right front lower.....

[65Gregg]

Prior to installation of the springs did you compare them to confirm they are alike? The vendor could have mixed 2 different springs when the order was filled, it's happened before. Beyond that lets hope the fram isn't tweaked, good luck.

[t76turbo]

Originally Posted by 65Gregg

Prior to installation of the springs did you compare them to confirm they are alike? The vendor could have mixed 2 different springs when the order was filled, it's happened before. Beyond that lets hope the fram isn't tweaked, good luck.

Yep. They looked identical in the box laying next to each other and the part numbers stamped on them are the same.

[chevyguy_72]

Could it be possible that someone replaces a LCA on one side and they are different?

[t76turbo]

Originally Posted by chevyguy_72

Could it be possible that someone replaces a LCA on one side and they are different?

Could be. They weren't noticeably different but I wasn't looking for it. I may try to take a couple measurements just to be sure they are the same.

[Low Elco]

There's an oval nipple on the crossmember for the top of the spring to sit on. Factory pocket/nipple/spring/LCA combos are made to key (clock) it all together. The spring clocks into place for it all to seat right. Lotta guys just throw it up in there so it catches the nipple and run, but that ain't right. Get it in the air, pull your shocks/swaybar so the suspension droops, and reach up in there and check. I got $5 says the top isn't seated. Don't feel bad, happens to the best of us. See if swapping them side/side will key it right. If not, go to the local muffler shop and have them heat the top ring (not the spring part) of your springs to open them up a bit. You want that top sitting dead on the plate around the nipple at the top, and all the way at the bottom of the pocket on the LCA. this is the cause of a good 90% of Chevy Lean. BTDT. Good luck!

[t76turbo]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

There's an oval nipple on the crossmember for the top of the spring to sit on. Factory pocket/nipple/spring/LCA combos are made to key (clock) it all together. The spring clocks into place for it all to seat right. Lotta guys just throw it up in there so it catches the nipple and run, but that ain't right. Get it in the air, pull your shocks/swaybar so the suspension droops, and reach up in there and check. I got $5 says the top isn't seated. Don't feel bad, happens to the best of us. See if swapping them side/side will key it right. If not, go to the local muffler shop and have them heat the top ring (not the spring part) of your springs to open them up a bit. You want that top sitting dead on the plate around the nipple at the top, and all the way at the bottom of the pocket on the LCA. this is the cause of a good 90% of Chevy Lean. BTDT. Good luck!

Thank you for the info. I just assumed it was sitting square in the pocket at the top of the spring as they both look centered perfectly by eye. But will double check that as I am going to pull it apart sometime between now and the weekend anyways. So instead of just investigating the side that is low, I will pull the side that is higher and check that in detail.


The only downside to that being the solution is that then both sides will be way to low and I really will not be able to drive the truck. I was hoping the lower side could be raised. Not the higher side be lowered!!! But I want it right. And if these springs are just too low, I will buy another set with less drop and go forward.

[Low Elco]

Anytime, I try to help.

We had the same problem with bought spindles/springs. Oy! Too low!


Can't get the dang pic to work, but on p.25 of the yellow link in my sig, is a '70 crossmember, '75 LCA, CPP drop spindle and 3/4 coil off a '71 half ton spring setup. A full coil would drop it a hair more and work like buttah, 'cuz you'd maintain the clocking. I had to open up the top ring, works like a bandit.

[Smoothride]

exact same thing happen to me when i dropped my 71...I ended up using a spacer to raise the one side

[t76turbo]

I have a spring spacer being delivered today. At least to get me driving. The truck is still at my buddies house. He needs his car port back.

[N2TRUX]

It sounds like your on the right track. I would consider the backspace of the wheels and height of the tires as part of your rubbing issue. I'm perplexed about the difference in the drop.

[t76turbo]

I didn't measure the backspace of the wheels but they are just steel wheels. 15x8 from what I can tell. And the tires that are on there are right at 29 inches total overall height.

I have been told that size tire is pretty standard. Is that the consensus?

I am about to buy new wheels and tires. 20x8 front and 20x10 rears. But I can't see how they will be any better. Even with a confirmed backspace.

[vidman]

If your using drop spindles and 2" drop springs I don,t think you can stuff 29" tires in that hole...But i could be wrong

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by vidman

If your using drop spindles and 2" drop springs I don,t think you can stuff 29" tires in that hole...But i could be wrong

Keith or Scot can confirm, but I feel like you are at least an inch to tall on your tire. Again, not knowing "what" 8" rim your running, the backspace could be a concern.

Since your getting new tires and wheels, now is the time to get that figured out. I agree that pics are always a plus

[long'n low]

[t76turbo]

Ok. A couple corrections.

My buddy put the spacer on for me today and it is much better. 1/8 of an inch from perfectly level left to right. But it still rubs. Not only hard left or right turns and when I was driving it home and hit a couple decent dips (nothing huge, just visual dips in the road) it scrubbed mostly on the passenger side. The drivers side is now 1/8 higher than the passenger with me in it. I added a 1/2 inch spacer which looks to have yielded an extra 1 and an 8th inch on the drivers side.

But I have to correct a few things I much have heard wrong and add new data.

The wheel appears to be less than 8 inches wide. But it's hard to measure with the tire on it.

Also , the tires are not 29 inches tall. Without the weight of the truck on them it is just over 28 inches tall. The tire size is 235-75-15.

I did measure the backspace and they look like 3 7/8 of an inch. Less than 4 inches for sure.

And I know I need to replace the cab mounting rubbers. So I imagine that takes up a little room as well.


I wasn't there for the install so I couldn't take pictures. But he did tell me he triple checked the spring was sitting correctly and now the previous measurement he took from the lower lip on the spring cup on the crossmember to the lip on the control arm is now the same for the drivers and passenger side.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by t76turbo

Ok. A couple corrections.

My buddy put the spacer on for me today and it is much better. 1/8 of an inch from perfectly level left to right. But it still rubs. Not only hard left or right turns and when I was driving it home and hit a couple decent dips (nothing huge, just visual dips in the road) it scrubbed mostly on the passenger side. The drivers side is now 1/8 higher than the passenger with me in it. I added a 1/2 inch spacer which looks to have yielded an extra 1 and an 8th inch on the drivers side.

But I have to correct a few things I much have heard wrong and add new data.

The wheel appears to be less than 8 inches wide. But it's hard to measure with the tire on it.

Also , the tires are not 29 inches tall. Without the weight of the truck on them it is just over 28 inches tall. The tire size is 235-75-15.

I did measure the backspace and they look like 3 7/8 of an inch. Less than 4 inches for sure.

And I know I need to replace the cab mounting rubbers. So I imagine that takes up a little room as well.


I wasn't there for the install so I couldn't take pictures. But he did tell me he triple checked the spring was sitting correctly and now the previous measurement he took from the lower lip on the spring cup on the crossmember to the lip on the control arm is now the same for the drivers and passenger side.

I need to raise one side of my 78 Silverado 1 inch, so you are saying that a one eight inch spacer will yield one inch, so I guess that is what I am going to look for

[t76turbo]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

I need to raise one side of my 78 Silverado 1 inch, so you are saying that a one eight inch spacer will yield one inch, so I guess that is what I am going to look for

No. I needed an inch as well. I added a 1/2 inch spacer which added a total of 1 1/8 with me in it which is what I wanted. I wanted it to sit level or as close to it when I am driving. The maker of the spacer I got from summit says you get 2.5-3 times the spacer size in actual lift. I would say they were pretty close. But on the very lowest end of their range of course..

I imagine a different gen truck with different distances between the pivot point, spring location, and wheel could yield a different amount of lift. But this is what I saw on mine.

[lolife99]

The real question,... what it level before you started?
Most all never take before measurements.
The more pics you can post,... the better.

[t76turbo]

Nope. It was not level. It was obvious. But not as pronounced since it was higher. I should have measured before. But didn't think it was going to be needed.

[familyfast64]

29 inches is a lot of tire up front in a lowered tuck... That is my first thought. Idk tho