5.3 w/ 4l60e & TBSS Manifolds

[uxdesigner]

Configuration. If you had to do it again tomorrow, what what you use/order?
Stock 70 C10
5.3 w/ 4l60e

I'm at a point where I've now read so many threads on LS swaps that I'm having a hard time managing older installs vs. the newer installs and the many new options we have based on new product offerings. Thanks for the help!

Any recent swaps with this configuration?
I would like to use the same drive shaft if possible, just a thought.

Motor mounts that work with the TBSS manifolds?
I was thinking the ECE Sheet Metal but I've seen a few folks using the stock 70 perches with new mounts and adjustable brackets. LS1Nova71 has a great build but the mounts were custom, thanks for the build thread BTW!

Fuel System w/ stock tank?

• Walbro 255 (GSL392) plus 6AN Kit - Purchase Link
• 100 Micron Pre-Filter (Part Number?) -
• Fuel Filter (Part Number?) - Purchase Idea, looks easy to connect w/ 6AN

EVAP?
Do you leave the sensor but disconnect or remove and block with something?

[aggie91]

If I would be doing it over again, I would use one of two set ups.

This set up from Muscle Rods:
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...gory_Code=CNV9

Or this one from CPP:
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...366LS1-CIK.htm

The fuel system with a stock tank info you posted looks good, just add the prefilter like this one: You would need some -8 to -6 adapters....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...18-b/overview/

Evap: Remove and plug with GM PN 12558346 or a Dorman Freeze Plug #555-093.1

I used a LSA oil pan (GM PN 12631828) and pick up to replace the truck pan that my 5.3 came with. Like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/oil-pan-kit-...#ht_388wt_1266

I am actually in the process of planning to do another LS swap into my '65. I already have a bunch of the parts I am going to use. I just need to get the frame stands and motor mounts at this point. I used the Muscle Rod mid-lengther headers on my last one and will be using those again. I am leaning to just getting the new CPP sheetmetal mounts and the slider mounts that they make:
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...s/LS1-KU-P.htm

If I had to start from nothing, I would most likely do the CPP kit I listed above and get everything I need at one time. Seems to be about the right total if you get the parts separately IMO.

[uxdesigner]

Originally Posted by aggie91

If I had to start from nothing, I would most likely do the CPP kit I listed above and get everything I need at one time. Seems to be about the right total if you get the parts separately IMO.

Great info and insight, good luck on you next build I'll look out for it.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by uxdesigner

Any recent swaps with this configuration?
I would like to use the same drive shaft if possible, just a thought.

Motor mounts that work with the TBSS manifolds?
I was thinking the ECE Sheet Metal but I've seen a few folks using the stock 70 perches with new mounts and adjustable brackets. LS1Nova71 has a great build but the mounts were custom, thanks for the build thread BTW!

EVAP?
Do you leave the sensor but disconnect or remove and block with something?

The "keep stock driveshaft" thing comes up a lot, but I don't really understand why. In the scope of whats being done, a new DS is easy to get made and fairly inexpensive. Depending what trans you have now, its likely yolk/joint end might need to be changed anyway. Also, this means you can put the engine where you want it, instead of letting the ds length determine motor position.

I used sbc mounts on the perches of my 66, then Transdapt plates on the SBC mounts. Cheap, works fine. Clearances can be tight, but my tbss manifolds clear fine and I have plenty of access to the plugs etc on the side.

You can plug the hole, or just unplug the sensor connection and leave it there to block the hole for you. As long as its removed from the PCM, it won't cause any error.

[uxdesigner]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

The "keep stock driveshaft" thing comes up a lot, but I don't really understand why. In the scope of whats being done, a new DS is easy to get made and fairly inexpensive. Depending what trans you have now, its likely yolk/joint end might need to be changed anyway. Also, this means you can put the engine where you want it, instead of letting the ds length determine motor position.

I used sbc mounts on the perches of my 66, then Transdapt plates on the SBC mounts. Cheap, works fine. Clearances can be tight, but my tbss manifolds clear fine and I have plenty of access to the plugs etc on the side.

You can plug the hole, or just unplug the sensor connection and leave it there to block the hole for you. As long as its removed from the PCM, it won't cause any error.

You are absolutely correct, I should be building for where the engine sits and get a new DS when ready. I think most of us are unsure what it costs for a new DS so we are intimidated and our short term goal is to get it to fit immediately. What does a new DS cost, estimate?

The line from the EVAP runs to the original tank. If I block the hole do I need to vent elsewhere? I've read about using a vent plug but again no part number.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by uxdesigner

You are absolutely correct, I should be building for where the engine sits and get a new DS when ready. I think most of us are unsure what it costs for a new DS so we are intimidated and our short term goal is to get it to fit immediately. What does a new DS cost, estimate?

The line from the EVAP runs to the original tank. If I block the hole do I need to vent elsewhere? I've read about using a vent plug but again no part number.

For the '82 C10 we did the swap in the driveshaft cost me $381.37 total.
That was for a new slip yoke ($87.70), new 3/5" steel tube, 2 new Spicer U-Joints, and both yokes (new) on the end of the tube ($293.67) all from my local drive line shop. I gave them the measurement from the end of the trans to the center of the yoke on the rearend and they built it in one afternoon.

I just plugged the hole and the manifold to eliminate the EVAP and removed the functions from the PCM. The tank I used had a separate vent on the gas tank itself.

[BR3W CITY]

My thickwall DS was made for like $189. Milwaukee ain't good for much, but metal is cheap


You don't vent the solenoid side, you vent the tank side. Some folks just run a vented cap (me), others will use a small breather or vent mounted higher than the highest fill point on the tank.

[truckdude239]

i paid 60 buxs to have my drive shaft shortened

[uxdesigner]

Thanks everyone! Based on your advice I've decided to prioritize and drop the engine first and work on the DL after wards. Decent prices, not sure what I was expecting.