Repairing Bench Seat frame question

[BWickstrom]

I just purchased a bench seat from a '72 Chevy. Attached is a photo of the Positioning mechanism. I'd like to get it back to the point that it works. Any ideas? I didn't see any rebuilds in the FAQ.

Do both sides require a spring? Has anyone come up with a better mousetrap to get both sides to work smoothly?

Has anyone done any modifications to add some stiffness to the original springs?
Thanks in advance.

[NEWFISHER]

If you tie the springs together "daisey chain" they will become stiffer as you are using more of them working together to support the load.

The cross pull wire looks too loose in the pic's. It must be held and somewhat taught to work properly from what I have discovered.

[BWickstrom]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

If you tie the springs together "daisey chain" they will become stiffer as you are using more of them working together to support the load.

The cross pull wire looks too loose in the pic's. It must be held and somewhat taught to work properly from what I have discovered.

Thanks Newfisher, I thought connecting the springs might work. Any ideas on what material would get the best results?

Yeah, the cross pull wire is definitely lose, almost looked like an afterthought. I wonder if a more sturdy wire or thin rod would be better?

[NEWFISHER]

I have used regular hog rings and a GOOD set of hog ring pliers to catch the springs together. You can also use a hog ring to reposition the mounting point for the cross wire.

[kieth]

I used new fangled things called seatolators to provide cross support for the new foam in my seat:

Here is a link to pictures of me rebuilding my 66 gmc seat, just keep clicking on the arrow to the right and you will see the steps we went through to get my sagging seat to where it actually supports my 295lbs. Kieth

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/i-2b7Fn8L/A


Keep on clicking cause there are a lot of pictures and they are not in order.....

adding the stiff foam wedges to the outside of the seat helped a lot as well as the seatolators (piano wire that replaces the old batting to provide cross ridigity) any questions PM me here with your phone number and we can talk about it. ps A company here in Tulsa, Oklahoma (American Upholstery has a large supple of new replacement springs which really helped me repair my seat back to better than new )

[BWickstrom]

Thanks Kieth, I may be in touch, but the springs in my seat aren't the same as yours, but I can see how the seatolators, much like what Newfisher suggested, the hog ring, would work.

Your seat, truck, turned out great.

[oldiron]

Your wire is too loose. Take a hog ring and clamp the wire in the center of the seat to a cushion spring with light tension so when you move the adjuster handle both latches work at the same time. Also don't clamp down so tight that the wire doesn't slide through the hog ring.
I also noticed that you are missing a spring on the latch on the passenger side. The spring is approx. 3/4 long x 1/2 in diameter and is attached on the outboard side of the latch. It helps the latch return to the locked position after you are done repositioning the seat. Sorry I don't have a picture. You might post over on the 67-72 forum and someone should have a picture of it.

[BWickstrom]

Originally Posted by oldiron

Your wire is too loose. Take a hog ring and clamp the wire in the center of the seat to a cushion spring with light tension so when you move the adjuster handle both latches work at the same time. Also don't clamp down so tight that the wire doesn't slide through the hog ring.
I also noticed that you are missing a spring on the latch on the passenger side. The spring is approx. 3/4 long x 1/2 in diameter and is attached on the outboard side of the latch. It helps the latch return to the locked position after you are done repositioning the seat. Sorry I don't have a picture. You might post over on the 67-72 forum and someone should have a picture of it.

Oldiron, thanks, you're right on. After playing with it for awhile I figured it must be missing some kind of spring, but there isn't a hole or obvious way of attaching it. I wonder if the key is broken, missing the end of it.?? If someone has a picture of one that would be fantastic.

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by BWickstrom

Oldiron, thanks, you're right on. After playing with it for awhile I figured it must be missing some kind of spring, but there isn't a hole or obvious way of attaching it. I wonder if the key is broken, missing the end of it.?? If someone has a picture of one that would be fantastic.

I do think the end is broken off. I had a seat with the same problem but luckily had an old spare track I was able to get the part from. No pics though.

[kieth]

Originally Posted by BWickstrom

Thanks Kieth, I may be in touch, but the springs in my seat aren't the same as yours, but I can see how the seatolators, much like what Newfisher suggested, the hog ring, would work.

Your seat, truck, turned out great.

They also had other styles so sending samples would allow us to get the proper new springs. I did one other thing, we took the seat springs from the passenger side and moved them to the drivers side, then moved the drivers side springs to the passenger side, this meant the stiffer springs could now support my weight better.......

You could do the hog rings and add the seatolators which would make the seat much firmer or (not so worn out like mine was)

[PGSigns]

Also you need to pull out both the lock bars and make sure they are straight. Both look to be bent and both sides look to be missing the springs.
Jimmy

[61K10]

first, take the tracks off and clean them and lube them. there are rollers in the tracks. when the seat is bolted down in the tk it will move way different than trying to man handle it.