U-bolts for Lower Control Arm

[siggyfreud]

Anyone know where to buy these? Some threads on one of mine are stripped. Are they astonishingly easy to find and I'm just being an idiot?

I'd like to order these:
Amazon.com: Dorman - HELP 13503 Lower Control Arm...
But not sure if it's a one-size fits all thing or not. I search Google for 1985 C10 Lower Control Arm U-bolt and I just get a bunch of articles about installing LCAs. If I switch to shopping I get that one Dorman part number (13503).

If anyone has an easy find let me know.

Thanks all!

[Captainfab]

You should be able to buy those at your local NAPA or a GM dealer. There is a thread here somewhere with the NAPA part number.

[siggyfreud]

Awesome, I'll do a search for the part number.

[kerber63]

truckandcarshop.com carries the bolts, $39 for a set of 4.

[lucifer]

Any good spring shop can make you any u-bolt you need.

[bj383ss]

Here they are on Summit. These are in pairs and I believe they are the 9/16" ones. This is the cheapest I have found them and they are zinc plated.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-13503/overview/

Bret

[lucifer]

Originally Posted by bj383ss

Here they are on Summit. These are in pairs and I believe they are the 9/16" ones. This is the cheapest I have found them and they are zinc plated.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-13503/overview/

Bret

Better check close I think these are for later model trucks?

[donthekawguy]

They are for later model but they are a good upgrade for our trucks. Just drill out the holes so they fit. (/16 is a lot better than the 7/16 stock ones.

[siggyfreud]

I'm actually using an 85 front crossmember, so these should be perfect according to Summit's application guide.

Thanks for the find!

[bj383ss]

No problem. I assumed everyone upgraded to these since it is just drilling out the holes. I plan too. Sharps outlines it in his front end rebuild thread except he bought his from LMC and they want $14.95 a piece for them.

Bret

[siggyfreud]

Hmmm okay.
I planned on placing a jack under the control arm shaft to support it while I remove one u-bolt at a time.

Perhaps I'll drag my buddy back over and just replace them with the springs out since we found a much quicker way to get it back together.

Part of me wants to replace all 4 to look nice, but realistically I only need to replace one, as the other three are the thicker style anyways and not stripped.

[theastronaut]

I tried O'reilly's for a pair, went in with the Dorman part number and the kid couldn't pull it up so I was out of luck there. He asked what it was, and after explaining that it was a "U" shaped clamp that it held the front LCA shaft on he took me over to the exhaust clamps and said that I should try one of these...

[donthekawguy]

I got mine at autozone.

[luvbowties]

I re-measured my u-bolts, using a vernier caliper as before, and the shank again measured .500". I then measured the threaded diameter, and [due to the knurling effect from threading, I guess] this part measured larger such that, just as sharps40 said, using a 9/16" drill bit should provide a nice, snug fit. Sorry about any confusion....and, thanks sharps40.
Sam

[luvbowties]

JFI, the Dorman 13503 is exactly 1/2 inch in diameter. [Blister pkg. showed application to fit '73-'86 GM C/K trucks; '87-91 R/V trucks; G & P series vans, '73-'95.] My local Advance had to order directly from Dorman mfg., as they did not carry them/list them in their regular 'orderable' inventory. Were still cheaper than buying on-line and having to pay vendor's s/h charges--plus the advantage of doing business with the 'home boys'.

Have done just 2 of the 4 so far--was at the end of the day & getting dark. The ones I removed from my original '66 cross member were already 13/32" diameter, and seemed larger that what I'd read on our forum; they showed no wear, yet stretch might not reveal itself. No signs they had ever been changed. However, 58 years of road grime could have hidden mods--esp. had the mods been done, like 20 years ago vs. quite recent changes.

I, too, experienced the interference when trying to install the fat, locking nuts. Rather than dimple my x-member, or use smaller, flangeless nuts, I used 2 very heavy lock washers to raise each lock nut just the washers' thickness. This seemed to adequately remedy the interference, esp. as plenty of threads still protruded completely thru the nuts. *Honestly though, I'd rather have had the x-member-clearance for the fat, locking nuts to sit flat on the x-member lip.*
Sam