Dropping the rear??

[Roll'nSlo]

I'm thinking about dropping the back of my '66 about 5". My question is if I use 3" drop springs and 2" blocks do I have to notch the frame??

[forestb]

You should not need to. I have a 5 inch drop and it has never hit the frame. You will need to trim the bump stops. I think 6 inches is when you have to start worrying.

[Clyde65]

Need an adjustable panhard bar (track bar) and you won't be able to tow or carry as much.

[Roll'nSlo]

Well, panhard bar will be my next prob. I'm looking for an affordable Ford 9" and will have to fab brackets for it. Weight will never be a prob. I'll never haul anything with this truck. Now I'm curious about launching.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

Well, panhard bar will be my next prob. I'm looking for an affordable Ford 9" and will have to fab brackets for it. Weight will never be a prob. I'll never haul anything with this truck. Now I'm curious about launching.

We don't use the "F" word here............LOL

[Slow Build]

If you are running 15" wheels the 2" blocks will drop the bottom of the U bolts below the scrub line (bottom of the wheel). If I remember correctly the max you should use with 15" wheels is 1.5" blocks.

[Roll'nSlo]

I'm considering running 17" wheels. I may just use 1" blocks and 4" springs. I just don't want to notch my frame is the problem. It weakens it IMO.

[lolife99]

The rear drop springs are all the same price.
I would get your drop with the spring alone,... and then spend your "lowering block money" on drop shocks, an adjustable track bar, and rear shock relocators.
These are all the standard parts for lowering the rear of a trailing arm truck.

[Roll'nSlo]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The rear drop springs are all the same price.
I would get your drop with the spring alone,... and then spend your "lowering block money" on drop shocks, an adjustable track bar, and rear shock relocators.
These are all the standard parts for lowering the rear of a trailing arm truck.

Only reason I was going to use blocks, just to keep from notching the frame. Before you say anything, I know that's not going to make a difference. I wasn't thinking much into it at the time. Lol

[Jeff La]

Can i ask why people use the F___ 9" rear rather than a Chevy rear. I've never had a rear go bad on me. I"m just wondering what the advantages are? thanks for the info.

[64shortbox]

Originally Posted by Jeff La

Can i ask why people use the F___ 9" rear rather than a Chevy rear. I've never had a rear go bad on me. I"m just wondering what the advantages are? thanks for the info.

The C10 rear ends are weak if you are going to do any heavy towing, hauling or apply any serious power to them. The axel bearings ride directly on the axel shafts without an inner race so the axel shaft itself wears. I purchased a 28' travel trailer weighing in at 6,000lbs and since I plan on towing it with my 64 C10 I also plan on installing a Ford 9" rear end. There's quite a lot of 9" Ford rear ends to choose from that will fit our trucks. 67-72 Ford full size trucks, 60-64 full size cars, 71-73 Mustangs, 67-73 Torino, Ranchero & Fairlane are all 61.26" WMS to WMS. Our 60-72 C10's are 62" WMS to WMS. The absolute best swap is the 67-73 Torino, Ranchero & Fairlane rears because they use thick wall tubing & are 3.25" in diameter. And what do you know Pick-N-Pull is having a 1/2 sale this weekend, so you know where I'll be Saturday.

[Roll'nSlo]

I'm planning on dropping a 600-700hp 496 in my '66. My stock rear end won't last anytime at all. I'm also looking for a Dana 60.

[chevy_mike]

CPP makes an adjustable track bar that is bent to clear a 9" rear end. It uses the stock frame mount and has a bracket for the right trailing arm. You don't have to mount anything to the axle itself. I bought one to clear the diff cover I was going to use. After I mocked everything up, I realized on my panel, it has the rear gas tank so you'll never see that cover from behind. Doh!

Here's a pic to show how it route past the housing.

[Roll'nSlo]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

CPP makes an adjustable track bar that is bent to clear a 9" rear end. It uses the stock frame mount and has a bracket for the right trailing arm. You don't have to mount anything to the axle itself. I bought one to clear the diff cover I was going to use. After I mocked everything up, I realized on my panel, it has the rear gas tank so you'll never see that cover from behind. Doh!

Here's a pic to show how it route past the housing.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate the heads up on CPP.

So if I'm understanding everyone correctly, I can lower the truck 5" without having to notch the frame. Right??

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

Thanks for the info. I appreciate the heads up on CPP.

So if I'm understanding everyone correctly, I can lower the truck 5" without having to notch the frame. Right??

Correct, but don't go any more than 5", and don't put anything heavy in the bed. Get the adjustable track bar and relocate the shocks. Buy a good quality gas shock, too.

[Clyde65]

Go bags in the rear! you can then tow if you want to, haul if you want to and the ride is better.

[Roll'nSlo]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Go bags in the rear! you can then tow if you want to, haul if you want to and the ride is better.

I really don't want to do bags. I'll never haul anything in this truck.

I know it's kind of off subject but, if I do 2" lowering springs in the front do I have to worry about the tire leaning? I cannot stand that. Also, will typical lowering springs carry the weight of a bbc? I have a local vendor I can get typical springs but they don't carry the bbc springs.

[Desert.Chevy]

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

I'm thinking about dropping the back of my '66 about 5". My question is if I use 3" drop springs and 2" blocks do I have to notch the frame??

No, you will not have to.
CPP 5" rear springs and I still have 2" of travel. You will have to trim the bumpstops level with the frame.

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

I really don't want to do bags. I'll never haul anything in this truck.

Good to hear, cause CPP 5" rear spring and hauling doesn't really work, Maybe the CPP 4"HD spring and a 1" block for hauling.

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

I know it's kind of off subject but, if I do 2" lowering springs in the front do I have to worry about the tire leaning? I cannot stand that. Also, will typical lowering springs carry the weight of a bbc? I have a local vendor I can get typical springs but they don't carry the bbc springs.

CPP 3" front springs and everything is fine, no lean your talking about, or no alignment problems.

[Jeff La]

Thanks for the great info.

[cjracing15]

I know i should knw this BUT!
whats WMS? Thanks

[64shortbox]

Originally Posted by cjracing15

I know i should knw this BUT!
whats WMS? Thanks

WMS to WMS = Wheel Mounting Surface to Wheel Mounting Surface. Measuring from Backing Plate to Backing Plate won't give you a true overall rear end width because of Drum thickness etc.
Hope this helps.

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

WMS to WMS = Wheel Mounting Surface to Wheel Mounting Surface. Measuring from Backing Plate to Backing Plate won't give you a true overall rear end width because of Drum thickness etc.
Hope this helps.

Thanks!

[64-454ss]

From experience.... Just an FYI on front springs with a big block. The extra weight is good for about an extra 1" of drop from the advertised drop. i.e. a 2" spring will actually be about 3" drop. A 3" drop spring (4" total) will probably be resting on the bumpstops. Your best bet is a set of 2.5" spindles. That will not change from weight.