Radiator overflowed.

[grs]

I ran the engine for about 15 to 20 minutes in the garage today. When I turned it off I noticed water on the floor. Then I noticed the radiator cap lever was stocking up. I may have forgot to close it. Can the lever open up if it gets too hot? I myself don't think it can. When I felt the water on the floor it was not that hot. I will check the therm, and put a 180 in it if it is bad.

[jtrichard]

I would say you forgot to close it or you have Gremlins

[chevy_mike]

Likely you forgot to shut it.

Keep in mind, if you don't have an overflow bottle setup, you want to keep the fluid level about 1" below the top of the radiator. As it heats up, the coolant expands. It needs some place to go, otherwise it will puke out on the ground.

[grs]

Thanks all. I guess I left the lever up. I checked the stat today. It has numbers on it. They read. 300/400-160 What do they mean. If the 160 means it is a 160 degree stat why does my gauge show 220 degrees? The book says I should be using a 180 degree. I checked it and it does open up.

[chevy_mike]

The t-stat rating has nothing to do with how hot your truck will run. It only has to do with what temp the t-stat will fully open.

There are a number of things that will cause your truck to run hot. Bad radiator, bad radiator cap, bad water pump, too small of a radiator, not enough airflow through radiator, not enough fan to pull air, no shroud around fan, bad temp sender or gauge, temp sender in wrong place, etc., etc.

You need to systematically go through these to find your answer. First and foremost, are you getting air being pulled through the radiator? You don't say if you have an electric or mechanical fan. If mechanical, do you have a shroud and if so, is the fan in the right placement (should be 1/2-2/3 sticking out of the shroud).

Placement of the sending unit will play a big part. Ran into this with my I6 in my wagon. Put it in the head and it was "showing" it was running hot, even though the radiator temp was correct. Moved it to the t-stat housing as it was stock and the temps were normal.

I am moving this thread into the engine area, for more help.

[66Submarine]

Mike beat me to it.

[grs]

Mike The fan is a mechanical one. There is a shroud. and the fan is about 3/4 of an inch out. Water pump not leaking. Belt is tight. Radiator is a 3 row and not dirty inside or out side. The gauge shows 220, but it starts ok if I start it real soon after turning it off. If I wait maybe 20 minutes it cranks a little longer then it starts. Vapor lock I think. The sender is in the intake. It is a 327 with after market gauge. The gauge could just be off. Thanks

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by grs

Mike The fan is a mechanical one. There is a shroud. and the fan is about 3/4 of an inch out. Water pump not leaking. Belt is tight. Radiator is a 3 row and not dirty inside or out side. The gauge shows 220, but it starts ok if I start it real soon after turning it off. If I wait maybe 20 minutes it cranks a little longer then it starts. Vapor lock I think. The sender is in the intake. It is a 327 with after market gauge. The gauge could just be off. Thanks

A cooking thermometer from the grocery store can be cheap and easy to use if it has the longer probe. Found 'em to be pretty accurate too--good to verify your gauge's reading.
Sam

[grs]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

A cooking thermometer from the grocery store can be cheap and easy to use if it has the longer probe. Found 'em to be pretty accurate too--good to verify your gauge's reading.
Sam

I checked the thermostat. It does open and close. It is a 160 degree. I guess the lever on the radiator cap was open caused the problem. Thanks

[GASoline71]

Try the sending unit in the factory spot... in the drivers side cylinder head.

Gary