I need some weight-loss projects on my 66

[BR3W CITY]

Well I've been behind the 8-ball so-to-speak this summer, and got stalled on a few projects I had planned. I ended up working on my friends 350z and other projects (like getting married, damnit).

Anyway, I'm saving some cash for the next round of performance stuff (heads, rear suspension and brakes, tires) but realized that I really need to work on weight loss in this pig, but I don't know where to start...and I'm hoping to do mostly "elbow grease" projects.

For those that aren't familiar, my truck is as such; '66 short step, 71 front xmember/arms/5lug disc, lq4/4l80e.

Thoughts? I already have stuff like a rear fuel cell, battery relocated, aluminum wheels.

[moggey01]

Is the body finished as in paint and body done ? If its bare metal it can be acid dipped. Use a plumbing drane cleaner. I forgot the name of the one everyone uses its in a yellow bottle. Find a tub big enough for the panel you want to lighten and soak in acid water mix. It will eat rust and metal LOl Check daily depending on how strong your mix is. A stronger mix works faster, but you can dent the metal with your fingers. Fiber carbon hood, aluminum radiator , lighten core support. Anything from the bed fwd that does notneed to be there get rid of. LOl titanium bolts if your that serious. Lots of ways to get rid of weight, and move weight back.

[Captainfab]

A few different size hole saws and some time making swiss cheese out of things like the radiator support, inner doors, inner fenders, etc. In fact you could also do away with the inner fenders except for a section to attach the hood hinges. Another thing, although not cheap, would be to replace your side and rear glass with Lexan.

[Super73]

Focus on weight in the front if possible.

I am working on a mustang 2 spindle with Willwood brakes. 75-100lbs
Front bumper.. it is the farthest thing out there, leverage..
Power steering? Move to a manual box.
How about rack and pinion?
Mods to the front cross member. Ie cutting out the center and replacing with cm tubing?

[tinydb84]

I believe No Limit's Crossmember is around 100lbs lighter. Might be too much work but what about moving the engine up and back?

I am in just to see what people come up with.

[Marv D]

I surely agree with the general trend of all the replies. The frame and chassis is what the 60's thought was necessary to carry 1000 pounds,,, Why it takes 4000 pounds to carry 1000 is a bit of a head scratcher! You could gut the doors, dash, add light weight glass hood fenders and bed bedsides,,, but it would still be rolling around on that hulk of a frame.

As far as the chassis it's kinda like going to the gym,,, how much weight you loose will be proportionate to the amount of effort (cash) you put in. Spindles, control arms, the frame rails themselves,,,, it ALL can be replaced with something more performance oriented,,, and probably still haul all the tonnage you would ever care to toss in the back.

[PGSigns]

These guys have race weight parts that look pretty good. http://www.usbody.com/ I would start with a front bumper, and hood. Then the inner fenders. That should get rid of more than a 100 pounds off the front. Front cross member can be sectioned and a tubular center put in it. Going to a smaller street rod type heater will lower the weight and move it down. Light weight wheel and front tires. Doing the disc brake conversion with spindles for the light duty 1" thick disc. Light weight seats. Smaller fuel cell moved to the back behind the rear wheels. Late model aluminum master cylinder and no power brakes. Remove the vent assemblies in the cab and block off with aluminum plates. Removing all the undercoating. Just a few to ad to the list.
Jimmy

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

These guys have race weight parts that look pretty good. http://www.usbody.com/

Plug that website into the search box. Everything they make takes twice as much time and money to get to fit. I'm surprised they are even still in business. I'd totally go with a glass front end, if anyone actually made a good one.

As for the rest of it, I've done most of that stuff, not counting things like stripping undercoating etc. I've considered the rack n pinion option, since I need a new stearing box anyway...too bad its just sooo much $.

[Marv D]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Everything they make takes twice as much time and money to get to fit. .

That's interesting. Although no fiberglass part is going to be an exact fit replica of the steel piece,, I have the US bodysource front fenders and 2" cowl hood on my 66 and fit (while not perfect) didn't cost me a penny more than the crappy Harwood junk I had my Nova (that was the crappiest piece of junk I ever had the pleasure of tossing in a dumpster) In fairness my front end pieces were street grade and not that much lighter than the steel counterparts.

I guess just proof 'you can't please all of the people all of the time...'

[BR3W CITY]

Marv, I looked into the US body stuff right when I got my truck 5 or so years ago. I figured it would be a good option...but then I read a number of threads here and elsewhere about extremely poor quality.

Hoods not lining up, tilt fronts that had the hinges cast/mounted in the glass improperly. I'd be all for it if I knew I could buy it, paint it and go....but that just aint the case. Compare that to say the "modern" market, I can go buy a CF hood for a late model LX car and have it on and done in 20minutes.

[moggey01]

I used Nathan Porters coil over crossmember. Its all C/10 parts. I have the cromo control arms. The CCP spindles were really rough. I milled the material that they left in the corners of the ball joint pads and ball nosed some dimples. They are almost 6 lbs lighter each. The upper shafts I milled , 2.5 lbs off. I weighed everything that I replaced. It was all stock stuff , but it is well over 200lbs . The mustang 2 stuff should be lighter. I spent the time to lighten body mounts ,shock mounts ,the reinforcements in the frame everything. The roll cage will tie into the cab so the mounts are not as important. Lower shock mounts have a solid plate under them. I changed things on the engine location to raise it. The crossmember was changed for that reason .

[ls64]

Originally Posted by moggey01

I used Nathan Porters coil over crossmember. Its all C/10 parts. I have the cromo control arms. The CCP spindles were really rough. I milled the material that they left in the corners of the ball joint pads and ball nosed some dimples. They are almost 6 lbs lighter each. The upper shafts I milled , 2.5 lbs off. I weighed everything that I replaced. It was all stock stuff , but it is well over 200lbs . The mustang 2 stuff should be lighter. I spent the time to lighten body mounts ,shock mounts ,the reinforcements in the frame everything. The roll cage will tie into the cab so the mounts are not as important. Lower shock mounts have a solid plate under them. I changed things on the engine location to raise it. The crossmember was changed for that reason .

Is that crossmember listed on PB's website?
Thanks

[moggey01]

Yes as far as I know it is. Mine was called a pro touring coil over dropmember. The ride height can go lower with this model. Mine was one of the first ones built and I think he has made some changes since. I think with this model you can go to 5 1/2 inches at the frame. Mine is mocked up at 6 "now. Im not sure what is up but the shock wont fit. I have pictures Nathan sent were he used my shocks to make my brackets,but the shocks are too long on my set up. Im going to make the upper shock mount tie into the roll bar in the front I think. Let me know if you have any other questions.4

[Wasted Income]

What seats do you have in it? late model seats are a killer in regards to weight. I pulled ~100 off the front of the truck with the NoLimit IFS, and then probably added all of that and more back with the Tahoe/Burb front and rear leather seats.

[BR3W CITY]

I've got a pair of LoCar low-back buckets. They aren't light, but I'd say the pair doesn't weigh any more than the old bench did.

Realistically right now I'll probably look at removing the fender liners, and I just might consider changing to that rack n pinion...because I really hate the 50lb 1971 steering box.

[moggey01]

Old porsche seats were real lite and had some upholstry so they were comforatable. Think I will do some aluminum seats , kind of a bomber influenced porsche style. It is alot of weight.

[Wasted Income]

Yea, my split rear seats in the blazer are about 70 lbs each, and I'd guess the front reclining/folding seats are about 75 lbs each, maybe more.

As a frame of reference, most Corbeau racing seats are in the 18-20 lb range.

[71Dragtruck]

Originally Posted by Wasted Income

Yea, my split rear seats in the blazer are about 70 lbs each, and I'd guess the front reclining/folding seats are about 75 lbs each, maybe more.

As a frame of reference, most Corbeau racing seats are in the 18-20 lb range.

That's like the removable third row seats in my Escalade, no average house wife is taking them out hauling into the house or putting them in by herself without struggling or dragging them.

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by 71Dragtruck

That's like the removable third row seats in my Escalade, no average house wife is taking them out hauling into the house or putting them in by herself without struggling or dragging them.

That's exactly what it's like.

I even struggle removing them, and I'm 6'3".

I tried to save a little bit of weight by welding up an aluminum seat frame for them....but that's like having a diet coke when you pig out at the all you can eat buffet.

[BR3W CITY]

Just looked it up, the seats in my truck weight 24lbs each, so thats 48 for the pair...still lighter than the bench that was in there before. My center consolse weighs 25lbs or so with the amp and speakers, but I pull that out before I run it.

[71Dragtruck]

Scott's front end shaves about 200#, just saying incase you realize one kidney is more then enough.

[moggey01]

While we are on the subject does anyone have accurate weights for the stocke rear suspension? Trailing arms? and a 12 bolt complete with brakes? coil springs? I took mine out and did not weigh any of it. Now I kind of need a close figure if someone has any. Thanks a bunch in advance.

[BR3W CITY]

I just searched around a while.

A stock 12 bolt weighs 185lbs, and I believe thats without axles.

I can't find stock trailing arm weights, but the tubular ones I've seen (2x3, not round tube) are about 70lbs.

Springs? that depends on what spring, as the thickness of the spring and # of coils determines weight. Shipping weight on a set of lowering springs was ~30lbs

[BigDan3131]

I know that us body source and harwood have been mentioned and I didn't care for either of them too. But, Unlimited Products parts are very well made and last a long long time. They have a multitude of hoods and fenders for our trucks and if you have the budget they can be had in carbon fiber.

[Super73]

I have a hard time believing a sick 12bolt weighs 185lbs with out axles. I could see that being true with axles.

When we got rid of the trailing arms in my truck, I want to say that them plus a tow hitch weighed in the 135lb range but don't quote me on that.