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09-20-2014, 04:56 AM | #1 |
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Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
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90 Suburban 2wd lift.
LIFT NOT LEFT!!!!!!!!!!!
Well I finally did it. Been something I've been wanting to do for a while and I've been collecting parts here n there. Haters are going to hate, but I don't see anything wrong with a lifted 2wd. It suits me and my needs for what I do with it. At stock height I drug the hitch a lot even with 31s. So anyway here it is. Before After Here is my parts list 88-98 Moog upper balljoints 73-87 3/4-1ton Dorman control arms with balljoints 88-98 chassis tech 4'Lift spindles I ordered brakes for a 96 C1500. I seen different part numbers for 88-92 I think. So to be safe I always said 96 when ordering brake and bearing parts I used Power Stop 5 lug rotors. The rear I used 4" SkyJacker 56" springs. I swapped out the 10 bolt for a 12 bolt from a 1980 parts Suburban I have. I put 4.10 gears and a Detriot trutrac limited slip in it. I used the stock front shocks The rear shocks I used Doetsch part# 3407. I also put disc brakes on the rear. I just bought a Right Stuff brake kit using Cadillac calipers with a parking brake. I don't have cables yet. Input on cables and where to buy are welcome. It was a cheap kit. It's kind of get what you pay for kind of thing. The mounting holes where slightly off and not quite the entire pad its the surface of the rotor. I ordered all 3 brake hoses from inline tube 4" longer than stock for the 1990 Suburban. I used the hose holder on the upper control arm. As far as the tierods go I redrilled the taper so the tierod end goes in from the top. I bought my bit from Speedway motors. The bearings, seals, brakes, calipers, rotors, balljoints and lower control arms I bought from rockauto.com. A lot of money was saved buying from there vs parts stores. So these two gentleman is what got me started and their builds. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=469743 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...hp?photo=22789 If you read the threads one guy used the 73-87 lower balljoint and the other used 88-98 lower balljoint. Well after using the 73-87 I noticed a large gap between the bottom of the spindle and the top side of the lower control arm where the ball joint is. Big enough gap that the balljoint dust boot won't seat down around the balljoint. I thought it was odd but it works. for now. After having it together I went to the parts store to compare to two years of balljoints. I will probably be swapping out the lower balljoints for the 88-98. It will close the gap and give me another 1/2"-3/4" of lift. The spindles were less than to be desired. One of the just didn't look right as in the holes being drilled off center. I bought them off ebay and I got ahold of the guy and he was difficult to deal with. He wouldn't really respond other than for a return label for a refund. I didn't want to return them. i just wanted to exchange the drivers side. Against my better judgement I used it anyway. With all of the shims removed and the spacer that sits in the upper control arm shaft out the best it did was 1.6* on the camber. 1.2* was the maximum. They might work on somebody elses truck but not mine. I will probably order a set of rough country spindles when I swap out the lower balljoints. I measured the height before and after. I measure from the body line right above the pinstripe using the same tires as you can see from the pictures. I meared right in front of the rear fenderwell and right behind the front fenderwell. Before it was 39.25" in the rear and 39" in the front. After the rear is 45" and the front is 44". I haven't measured the track width yet but the tires rub way worse after the lift then before. The catch on the fender trim pretty bad now. Some of it might have to do with the camber but I sure wasn't expecting it to be worse. Before it only rubbed if I was turning and hit the brakes and even then it barely rubbed. I kinda blamed worn control arm bushings for that. So this is where I am with it for now. To do list consist of finding parking brakes or getting some made. Change the lower balljoints to the 88-98 and get different spindles. Change out the 14mm studs for 1/2" in the front rotors Last edited by Suburban_Tyler; 09-20-2014 at 05:08 AM. |
09-20-2014, 06:11 AM | #2 |
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Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd left.
I did find a little hope for parking brake cables. This guy has his on a C10 but from what I found that the stock cables are the same down to the drums.
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...n/reardisc.htm |
09-21-2014, 07:50 PM | #3 |
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Location: Midway, NC
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd left.
There are right many that like lifted 2wds on here. You'd be surprised. I've seen some fine examples. I like your ride.
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11-20-2014, 08:55 AM | #4 |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
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12-05-2014, 01:56 PM | #5 | |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
Quote:
i think i would stay with 31-33's...looks good in the pic |
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05-10-2015, 11:27 PM | #6 |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
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05-10-2015, 11:29 PM | #7 |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
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11-20-2014, 05:25 PM | #8 |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
Looks great!
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12-05-2014, 01:09 PM | #9 |
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Location: Mississippi
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
I am interested in this as well.
I have an 87 3/4 ton 2wd suburban which already sits higher than the 2wd 1/4 ton. are there any suggestions for lifting a 2wd 3/4 ton? Would installing 1 ton parts do anything?
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05-16-2015, 09:44 AM | #10 |
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Location: ohio
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
looks good. I dont want to go that big, but i wouldnt mind having a set of 18s for my lifted suburban.
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05-28-2016, 03:34 PM | #11 |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
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10-17-2016, 01:25 AM | #12 |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
Did you have to put spacers on to make the 305's stick out like that? I'm putting together the parts for my 2wd lift. I like the way yours looks.
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10-17-2016, 05:08 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Posted via Mobile Device |
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10-17-2016, 05:55 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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05-28-2016, 07:42 PM | #15 |
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Re: 90 Suburban 2wd lift.
Looking good
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