Can I use the old 4 speed behind the 5.3?

[bh86]

I'm in the process of getting my old step side goin. This is a Budget build and just want a fun cruiser. I've done one LS swap in my 82 but I'm in the process of prepping it for paint etc and it's got a ways to go. So in the meantime I wanted to get this old beast rollin but the old I6 is pretty tired. I have the 305 out of my 82 which would be super quick and easy, but I've also got a 5.3 sitting on a motor stand. I've never seen anybody running the 4 speed stick behind one and I don't see why you couldn't but I wanted to ask before I assumed that it was fine. My reason for keeping it is simplicity and fun factor, I enjoy drivin an old stick around. Another reason I want to keep it is for the simple fact that I don't know how bad I want to have to do all of the work to put the auto in, such as find and swap a cross member, swap in a different column etc. It's not crazy hard stuff to do but it takes time and more money. So any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks

[bh86]

Here's the truck

[Clyde65]

how about an nv4500 behind your 5.3?

[dec010974]

Hello Bh86. If you decide to make it happen, please do a thread. I luv those transmissions. I can't afford a Tremec.

[e015475]

Not sure exactly what manual transmission you want to run behind the 5.3, but you can run a Muncie M20, M21, GM T5, or anything that has that same pilot diameter and input shaft on an LS motor.

You'll need a Sachs flywheel for the manual trans 2500 GM truck (about $70), a clutch from a 70's big-block (about $100) and a '621' GM bell-housing (about $150 used), and of course, the transmission of your choice.

The original GM 621 bell housing will fit the LS motor, except that the very top bolt hole isn't there. You can buy reproduction 621 bell housings with the boss and hole for the LS motor from ebay for about the same as a used GM one without it. Kiesler (now Silver Sport) transmissions sells a very nice one, but it is about $250, but has the correct bolt pattern for the LS motor

There's a few other things you'll need, like a LS2 (?) pilot bearing and the correct throw-out bearing to match the clutch -flywheel geometry. The BB flywheel will also need to be modified by slightly enlarging the bolt holes to allow the use of the metric LS pressure plate bolts.

There's no provision on the LS block for a z-bar, so you'll have to work something out for either and external or internal hydraulic slave cylinder.

I have some pictures somewhere of the 621 bell housing for the LS motor with a Camaro T5 and an S-10 tailhousing (to move the shifter forward for a truck) if there's any interest, I'll post them.

[Gooker928]

Originally Posted by e015475

Not sure exactly what manual transmission you want to run behind the 5.3, but you can run a Muncie M20, M21, GM T5, or anything that has that same pilot diameter and input shaft on an LS motor.

You'll need a Sachs flywheel for the manual trans 2500 GM truck (about $70), a clutch from a 70's big-block (about $100) and a '621' GM bell-housing (about $150 used), and of course, the transmission of your choice.

The original GM 621 bell housing will fit the LS motor, except that the very top bolt hole isn't there. You can buy reproduction 621 bell housings with the boss and hole for the LS motor from ebay for about the same as a used GM one without it. Kiesler (now Silver Sport) transmissions sells a very nice one, but it is about $250, but has the correct bolt pattern for the LS motor

There's a few other things you'll need, like a LS2 (?) pilot bearing and the correct throw-out bearing to match the clutch -flywheel geometry. The BB flywheel will also need to be modified by slightly enlarging the bolt holes to allow the use of the metric LS pressure plate bolts.

There's no provision on the LS block for a z-bar, so you'll have to work something out for either and external or internal hydraulic slave cylinder.

I have some pictures somewhere of the 621 bell housing for the LS motor with a Camaro T5 and an S-10 tailhousing (to move the shifter forward for a truck) if there's any interest, I'll post them.

this is exactly what I did in a chevelle. You can drill and tap that raised area on the side of the block to accommodate the pivot bar.

[bh86]

Wow thanks for the info, I wondered how much it would take and it sounds like it would be a lil more than I had hoped. It may actually be a lil more pocket book friendly to go the 4l60e route after all. I will do some looking into the parts list and go from there. And again I appreciate the information.

[bh86]

And dec010974 I hear Ya on these transmissions for some reason I've always enjoyed drivin them.

[patdaly]

The 621 bellhousing would only be used if you are running a car trans, your current bellhousing for the 465 is the right one, and if it is in the same location as the one in my 79 is, the clutch pivot is to the bellhousing, not the block.

Get the flywheel, the pilot baring/holder, and the clutch/PP and you are golden. Oh yea, you will need new Flywheel and PP bolts, they are all metric.

[franken]

Yeah, with the milk crate seat (I've done it), the trans can stay til the next round of upgrades.
Although, I'd think of the SBC and an interior might be more practical than the LS.

[bh86]

That's awesome news! Looks like I'll run the 4 speed after all

[bh86]

Oh and I have the interior, had to throw anything original out, after sitting next to a barn in the pasture for 15 years the mice took over and ruined everything. I've never seen so many mice in one cab. There was 22 in the heater box alone since they had two batches of litter in there. The heater box had rusted through from all the urin. Pretty gross I know. I've had to do a lot of cleaning and disinfecting to say the least ��

[crazy longhorn]

I think these guys have you covered on the swap, but will add my notes? NFW 1050 sachs flywheel,LS2 pilot, ARP flywheel & pressure plate bolts, LS1. (just as cheap cost wise as the TTY bolts). The stock bell should do you, & the 11" clutch setup for your truck (all 3 pcs). Don't forget the lock tite on the flywheel to crank bolts, as it is needed to seal the threads (the holes are not blind)! You will need to ream 3 of the holes on the clutch cover,(about .015'or basically 1/64") to fit the metric bolts(3 of them will line up). Any of the stock manifolds will no doubt interfere with the z-bar on the clutch linkage....I used a set of Hooker street rod shorties, to solve that issue. Best of fun....Longhorn

[crazy longhorn]

Too late to add to the 1st post , that I set...you will also need to drill the bolt holes , on the bell (1/64"), to handle the metric bolts? You will probably get by, using the bolts That came from the auto trans (just check your lengths)? DO NOT drill the holes for the "block pins", unless that you determine, that parts are not centered up? Any more info, that you need, post it up....or feel free to shoot me a PM? If I do not know, I will tell it "straight up", & try to send you to the next guy that does know it Longhorn

[bh86]

Thanks a ton man, I didn't even think about the z bar and needing headers. I'm Curious if I swapped a hydraulic setup in place of the current would it give me enough room to run factory manifolds? If I have to go the header route it may be enough to push me to the automatic route seeing as how it will be getting a lot more complicated (I have the auto steering column and just need crossmember) and the cost will be getting higher and higher. On a side note I did make some progress today!

[Angryman117]

I'm running an NV4500 behind my 5.3 in my 89 Z71. I kept the most of the boxes with part numbers if you want them.

[bh86]

Actually I would appreciate that. Btw What did you do for exhaust manifolds?

[crazy longhorn]

Now you are on the right thought I will step out & let the other guys play? Longhorn

[Angryman117]

I am using a Sachs NFW1050 flywheel with a stock clutch from my TBI motor that was in the 89, with the 11.6 inch clutch. I had to make the holes slightly bigger on the pressure plate for the metric bolts and removed the dowel pins from the flywheel. The bearing I used is Napa 6302-VSP43. Also what year engine are you going to run. I am told the earlier ones has a different length crankshaft. As for exhaust I am running stock 5.3 manifolds and y pipe with cats and front o2 sensors. Hope that helps.

[bh86]

The motor I'm running is an 02 5.3. You don't happens to have any pics of the manifolds that might show how the clear do Ya? Are they truck manifolds?

[Angryman117]

Here are a couple of drivers side pictures. Will see if I can get a good pic of the passenger side tomorrow if you need it. Yes they are truck manifolds.

[bh86]

Man I wish I could clear the truck manifolds on mine, I love how much room you have in that body style. On a side note I found some pretty funny stuff while tearing things apart. Then driveline was barely attached to the trans, whoever put it on way back when left the u joint straps finger tight at best, and the one in this pic was barely 2 or 3 turns in. On top of that the driver side caliper wasn't even bolted on, it literally fell off lol

[patdaly]

Are you sure the truck manifolds won't clear? The pictures look just like the 01 Truck manifolds that I have for my swap, and while I don't have it in yet, the Z bar sure looks like it will clear.

I dunno, do you have your engine yet? Might be worth mocking it up before you buy anything ( flywheel, etc..... )

[bh86]

i hevent mocked anything up quite yet, I'm pulling the cab and bed off tomorrow to clean and paint the frame. I'll prob be able to mock things up by end of the week but from what i understood the truck manifolds don't quite clear the frame rails, from the looks of things the z bar should clear tho.

[patdaly]

That might be the case, reading through the 69K10 thread, he used GMC Envoy manifolds and they cleared the frame rails on the 69, which should be very close to the 73-87 rails.