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11-07-2014, 07:26 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 21
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steering/brakes/susp help/advice
I’m on the last few months of my deployment and will be making some purchases at the end of the month (as long as POL does their 10% off). I bought my truck right after my first deployment and several moves and 3 deployments later the truck is neglected as ever. I plan to drive my truck on my 30th birthday, 2 months after my return.
The truck is a 64 C10 short fleetside with 3” drop coils all around. When I moved from VA to Texas I needed it to be a roller so I hastily threw on a front disc brake kit with 2.5 drop spindles. Purchases and questions: -Purchase #1, a manual steering gear box. The PO rigged a power steering box and it was thrown away in VA. I’m hoping the shaft (not original) and box will be compatible. If not, what is the most common shaft I can pick up from a junkyard and throw in there? -Purchase #2 brakes. As stated before I put disc brakes in the front, I’ll be leaving the drums in the back (w/ new springs and cylinders). I will be buying the POL Disc brake Master Cylinder and Proportioning Valve Kit 18817, along with pre bent brake lines (front and rear), I will not be running a booster. Has anyone made the same purchase? Does the rear brake line go from the M/C to the T fitting on the rear axle? Will I need anything else? -Purchase #3 suspension. Front: buy 1” drop coil to replace 3” coils. Relocate upper shock mount. Rear: 1.5” blocks. The question is will a panhard bar really be necessary at 4.5”? -Purchase #4 tubular engine mounts, maybe. I was running a 383 on stock mounts, the tubular ones say they will move the engine forward, is this enough to change where the TH400 mounts in the crossmember? Should I also get a new trans crossmember? And will it affect the length of the drive shaft? This should have me steering, stopping and handling the bumps, all that’s left is rebuild engine and trans, throw the sheet metal back on and I’ll be driving. I appreciate any help/advice. Here is a picture of how it sat when I had to pull it out to clean the side of the mother in-laws house. Not pretty. And another when I lowered it 3”, back in 2006. |
11-07-2014, 08:55 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: menifee california
Posts: 788
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Re: steering/brakes/susp help/advice
no need to change motor mounts. you can move stock foward if you need to. i would run the 3 in. spring and dropped spindle. i like em low. or you can send me your 3inch lowering spring. rear--- you need an adjustable panhard bar if you lower the rear.you don't need to change front shock mount with dropped spindles. you should change shock mounts in rear.you also need to change shocks--move front to rear and buy lowerewd front shocks
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11-07-2014, 11:01 PM | #3 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 21
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Re: steering/brakes/susp help/advice
Quote:
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11-07-2014, 10:15 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Rathdrum ID
Posts: 1,129
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Re: steering/brakes/susp help/advice
Just wondering why no power brakes or steering?
__________________
66 shorty |
11-07-2014, 11:05 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 21
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Re: steering/brakes/susp help/advice
Just figured I don't need them, I have a brand new truck with that stuff. Just wanted to keep it with a old school feel. Also, though it will never be a show truck (just a truck to have a blast with) I think P/S pumps and boosters are eye sores. Just want to keep it simple.
Also I'm still youngish, doesn't hurt I'm 6'4 220 pounds, I should be capable of turning the wheel and stopping it. But perhaps someday I'll give in. |
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