Well Crapp!

[Daaaanz67]

My exhaust manifolds came down with measles. Actually after 3 years on my LS conversion the ceramic coating has failed on my Hooker manifolds. They were actually black when I first purchased them and eventually turned gray. That was my first disappointment of coarse so just a warning don't order the black unless you want gray. Other then the color and the crapy coating I still like the fit and construction. Now I've got to pull them off for a recoat and hope I don't snap any bolts. I did use antisieze when installed. Anyone else have this problem.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

My exhaust manifolds came down with measles. Actually after 3 years on my LS conversion the ceramic coating has failed on my Hooker manifolds. They were actually black when I first purchased them and eventually turned gray. That was my first disappointment of coarse so just a warning don't order the black unless you want gray. Other then the color and the crapy coating I still like the fit and construction. Now I've got to pull them off for a recoat and hope I don't snap any bolts. I did use antisieze when installed. Anyone else have this problem.

I just purchased a set but I got the un-coated ones. I am going to try the POR manifold paint on them. Did you temper or "cure" them as stated in the instruction sheet that came with them? Sounded kind of involved to me.....

LockDoc

[MalibuSSwagon]

I bought some used F-body manifolds for my swap and I'm going to try out the POR manifold paint as well.

[Daaaanz67]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I just purchased a set but I got the un-coated ones. I am going to try the POR manifold paint on them. Did you temper or "cure" them as stated in the instruction sheet that came with them? Sounded kind of involved to me.....

LockDoc

Yes heat cycled them.

[Daaaanz67]

I have that por heat paint maybe I should try that first before paying someone to recoat. How do I remove this ceramic coating?

[BR3W CITY]

The only coating I've ever see hold up is the o.g. jet-hot coatings.

[homemade87]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

My exhaust manifolds came down with measles. Actually after 3 years on my LS conversion the ceramic coating has failed on my Hooker manifolds. They were actually black when I first purchased them and eventually turned gray. That was my first disappointment of coarse so just a warning don't order the black unless you want gray. Other then the color and the crapy coating I still like the fit and construction. Now I've got to pull them off for a recoat and hope I don't snap any bolts. I did use antisieze when installed. Anyone else have this problem.

Just a note on the header bolts . Do yourself a favor, get a set of arp stainless header bolts to replace the oem ones . All it takes is one to brake off to make a bad day . Since you are taking them out anyway . For $50.00 its not worth to trouble . Its not if , its when they will snap off . These things snap the head off under thermal expansion . You will look under your hood one day and see a couple bolt heads have popped off . It has happened to me on my tbss that was factory installed .

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/434-1202/10002/-1

[Daaaanz67]

Originally Posted by homemade87

Just a note on the header bolts . Do yourself a favor, get a set of arp stainless header bolts to replace the oem ones . All it takes is one to brake off to make a bad day . Since you are taking them out anyway . For $50.00 its not worth to trouble . Its not if , its when they will snap off . These things snap the head off under thermal expansion . You will look under your hood one day and see a couple bolt heads have popped off . It has happened to me on my tbss that was factory installed .

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/434-1202/10002/-1

I thought that stainless and aluminum was a bad mixture, or was that stainless and cast iron.
Hey wasted when you cure with the torch, do you just spray again or re-wipe down the manifolds in between coats. This sounds like a good idea.

[LockDoc]

-
Here's what member Low Elco said about the POR manifold paint....

"Also, POR makes a manifold gray that works great. Almost a year on ours, looks like the day they got painted."

LockDoc

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

I thought that stainless and aluminum was a bad mixture, or was that stainless and cast iron.
Hey wasted when you cure with the torch, do you just spray again or re-wipe down the manifolds in between coats. This sounds like a good idea.

SS and Al is a contact corrosion. There are other metals that will have a similar reaction but need to be in the presence of an alkali (like road salt) to actually have a problem.

The exh bolt issue is related to the different expansion of the aluminum heads on those bolts. ARP bolts/studds won't break off. You can use anti seize on any of them to help the problem.

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

Hey wasted when you cure with the torch, do you just spray again or re-wipe down the manifolds in between coats. This sounds like a good idea.

Just let 'er eat with the torch....let it cool...hit it again with another coat. Couldn't be easier.

I was curious about the truthfullness of the "flameproof" name. Yep. Can't burn it off.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

I thought that stainless and aluminum was a bad mixture, or was that stainless and cast iron.

ARP chrome moly bolts are just as good, Part# 134-1102 (For 3/8" flange), In fact I bet the yield strength is better than stainless.

[MalibuSSwagon]

You can buy 100 of the 8mmx1.25 25mm in class 10.9 zinc coated for $25 on ebay or at a fastener store. Why should I spend more than that for only 12 bolts?

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

You can buy 100 of the 8mmx1.25 25mm in class 10.9 zinc coated for $25 on ebay or at a fastener store. Why should I spend more than that for only 12 bolts?

On LS engines, ARP exhaust manifold bolts are worth every penny! I have seen to many pop the heads off 10.9 grade bolts.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

You can buy 100 of the 8mmx1.25 25mm in class 10.9 zinc coated for $25 on ebay or at a fastener store. Why should I spend more than that for only 12 bolts?

How long will it take you to pull all of those out of the head, one-by-one? I place at least a few $$ on my sanity and my fingers.

[Daaaanz67]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

ARP chrome moly bolts are just as good, Part# 134-1102 (For 3/8" flange), In fact I bet the yield strength is better than stainless.

Thanks Cline I'll look into those bolts also.

[Wasted Income]

I've had really good luck with the VHT ceramic flameproof black paint. It's been holding up on my turbo hot-pipes for a couple years now...and they get WAY hot.

[BR3W CITY]

Is that the stuff that you HAVE to run HOT right after you paint it so it bakes on?

[JNJchev77]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Is that the stuff that you HAVE to run HOT right after you paint it so it bakes on?

Yes, but you can bake it in the oven initially and then cycle once they're on the motor. That's what I used and did the baking before cycling on the motor. Stuff works great, still going strong going on two years now.

[Wasted Income]

I use a propane torch to cure it in between coats. Has held up better than the high dollar "ceramic" coating I had on the turbine...

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Wasted Income

"ceramic" coating I had on the turbine...

Thought that was a snake-oil thing they tried back in the GN days (At least the actual impeller being coated). Sooo, did it eat the turbine?

[Wasted Income]

Sorry I should have been more specific. I meant the turbine housing...not the turbine wheel. lol

[Daaaanz67]

Can anyone recommend on how to prep these if I choose to spray with VHT.

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

Can anyone recommend on how to prep these if I choose to spray with VHT.

Sand blast them if at all possible to get the old coating off. If not, just clean them up good to get any grease/grime/loose coating off of them, and spray them.

[Daaaanz67]

Originally Posted by Wasted Income

Sand blast them if at all possible to get the old coating off. If not, just clean them up good to get any grease/grime/loose coating off of them, and spray them.

Gotcha thanks.