After market temp gauage on a 230?

[SayBye]

Looking at buying a new temp gauge as my one in the dash doesn't work. Im wanting to put an after market one just below the dash. Any write ups on wiring and installing the gauge? Not sure really where to start and haven't came up with much on a 230

[1963c-10]

Do you currently have the warning lights or factory gauges cluster in your truck?

[SayBye]

Yes I do! It's a rusty jalopy so didn't wanna spend a bunch of time fixing them, thought it would be cheaper n faster just to wire a new one in?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by SayBye

Yes I do! It's a rusty jalopy so didn't wanna spend a bunch of time fixing them, thought it would be cheaper n faster just to wire a new one in?

He wants to know which style instrument cluster you have. Some have actual temp gauges with a needle. Others, like mine, only have a warning light that comes on.

Which kind do have?

[SayBye]

Oops misread his post my apology, I have the gauge style, not the lights.

[1963c-10]

Cheapest route on an aftermarket underdash is to remove the temp sending unit off the engine. The underdash will have a sending unit to install with it. Other option to replace or rebuild the existing one you have and it would take less time.

[1963c-10]

http://www.classicparts.com/1964-66-.../#.VRBgABN0y70

$50 and no modifications

[ray_mcavoy]

I agree with 1963c-10 ... I think repairing/replacing the existing factory temp gauge would be a better option than hanging an aftermarket one under the dash.

But before you replace the gauge itself, you might want to do some testing/troubleshooting. The factory gauges often quit working simply due to a poor connection in the wiring or a failed sending unit.

[SayBye]

I guess that's a better question is I don't know where to begin trouble shooting, where does the temp reading come from on these 230's? I'm fine with doing the factory gauge but need to know where the connections run and how their ran...

[ray_mcavoy]

If I remember correctly, the factory location of the temp sending unit on the 230/250 engines of this era is on the lower part of the thermostat housing. I think some of the later year inline-6 cylinder heads had a location on the cylinder head near the #1/#2 intake port.

Once you locate the temp sender, unplug the connector (it should have a single connector with a dark green wire). Temporarily jumper that wire to a good ground, turn the key on, and observe the temp gauge. With the sender wire grounded, the gauge should peg to the hot side. Now remove the temporary ground wire and try it again ... that should make the gauge stay on the cold side.

If the gauge works as described in the above tests, the problem is most likely a bad sending unit.

But if not, the next step would be to use a test light or voltmeter to make sure the pink wire on the back of the temp gauge has power with the key on.

And if that's okay, you'll have to check the continuity of the dark green wire that connects the gauge to the sending unit. That wire runs from the sending unit, along the side of the valve cover and then goes into the engine harness where it plugs into the bulkhead connector off toward the passenger side of the firewall behind the engine. From there, it runs inside the dash harness to a connector mounted on the clutch/brake pedal hanger bracket. And finally, the dark green wire runs from that connector, through the harness on the back of the cluster, to the plug on the back of the temp gauge.

[SayBye]

Heck yeah that's what I've been looking for Ray, thanks bud!!

[1963c-10]

Yeah....temp sensor is by the thermostat. Should just be one wire to it for the gauge cluster set up.