Need help with clutch adjustment - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Isaiah92260 · 07-20-2015, 11:37 AM

Hello everyone, I am new to chevy's my clutch used to grind Badly before it would go into 1st and reverse when I first got it. I adjusted it as much as I could into there was no more thread on the rod, still would grand a lot. This weekend I noticed that there 3 bolts on the drivers side missing for the tranny and motor mounts together -,- so I installed some Misc. bolts that I had in my arsenal and now the clutch was so close that's foot was practically off the pedal before it finally started engaging. So I backed it out a little. But it still grinds, no a lot though, but enough where I'm not gonna complain because it's a huge improvement, but the reason why I'm postin here is because I'm not sure exactly how I am suppsed to adjust te clutch too, how much free play do I need? Or how do I check? I'm used to Vw's so I'm not too sure where the clutch needs to be based on my experiences, I lot to ask questions so I can do things right, thanks

jtrichard · 07-20-2015, 11:59 AM

about 1.5" free play ....sounds like you have OIL on the clutch disc

Isaiah92260 · 07-20-2015, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtrichard

about 1.5" free play ....sounds like you have OIL on the clutch disc

That much? Wow that's very little, but very good to kno, thank you.... Oil? Is that the reason why it grinds? It is pretty oily and sludgy on the bell housing and oil pan.... How do I clean out the oil without pulling the motor from the trans?

padresag · 07-20-2015, 02:24 PM

you only need about 3/4" freeplay at the top of the petal. it just has to be so that the throwout bearing clears the prongs of the pressure plate so that the throw out bearing is not rotating when the clutch petal is fully released
2 other things to check are the engine mounts to see that they are all good and that the linkage is not worn to badly where the connections are at the z bar and at the top of the rod under the dash. the rod wears away and the holes can get enlarged. common after 50 years of use
check the z bar ends for wear also and the bracket on the frame where the z bar mounts for cracks. people forget to grease these things over the years or don't know to grease them
ron

Isaiah92260 · 07-20-2015, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by padresag

you only need about 3/4" freeplay at the top of the petal. it just has to be so that the throwout bearing clears the prongs of the pressure plate so that the throw out bearing is not rotating when the clutch petal is fully released
2 other things to check are the engine mounts to see that they are all good and that the linkage is not worn to badly where the connections are at the z bar and at the top of the rod under the dash. the rod wears away and the holes can get enlarged. common after 50 years of use
check the z bar ends for wear also and the bracket on the frame where the z bar mounts for cracks. people forget to grease these things over the years or don't know to grease them
ron

Awesome! Thanks I guess I have it right so far, and use the Z bar wiggles a little bit about, I've noticed since I've got the truck and worked on it, it has all the original linkage and clutch parts, all worn out, I guess i am going to need replacing soon... Also, I have a 67' straight 6 with which I believe is the original 1963 3 speed trans. So I have the right set up on there still? I'm talking about using the threaded push Rod Clutch Adjuster

padresag · 07-20-2015, 07:55 PM

the only difference to that picture is the ball stud on the eng side. the one used on an I6 is not a threaded ball stud but one inserted into a bracket that bolts to the side of the eng.
the worn parts can be built up(welded) and shaped back to round. the holes in the zbar can be drilled out and I believe door hinge pin bushings are the right size and you should be able to get them at a local auto parts jobber. there are also new linkage pieces out there with heim ends on them that are the way to go, just that you pay a little more
the z bar bracket just below the nbr 12 can crack in and around that opening for the end of the z bar. I ran a 13' clutch in mine for 18 years that took a little pressure to push so am a little familiar with the weaker spots in that system. I was 500 mi from home when that bracket broke away on me so I drove it home without it
ron

07-20-2015, 11:37 AM	#1
Isaiah92260 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Whittier, CA Posts: 851	Need help with clutch adjustment Hello everyone, I am new to chevy's my clutch used to grind Badly before it would go into 1st and reverse when I first got it. I adjusted it as much as I could into there was no more thread on the rod, still would grand a lot. This weekend I noticed that there 3 bolts on the drivers side missing for the tranny and motor mounts together -,- so I installed some Misc. bolts that I had in my arsenal and now the clutch was so close that's foot was practically off the pedal before it finally started engaging. So I backed it out a little. But it still grinds, no a lot though, but enough where I'm not gonna complain because it's a huge improvement, but the reason why I'm postin here is because I'm not sure exactly how I am suppsed to adjust te clutch too, how much free play do I need? Or how do I check? I'm used to Vw's so I'm not too sure where the clutch needs to be based on my experiences, I lot to ask questions so I can do things right, thanks

07-20-2015, 11:59 AM	#2
jtrichard Registered User Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: joshua tree ca. Posts: 1,484	Re: Need help with clutch adjustment about 1.5" free play ....sounds like you have OIL on the clutch disc

07-20-2015, 02:24 PM	#4
padresag Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Sidney,b.c. Posts: 4,425	Re: Need help with clutch adjustment you only need about 3/4" freeplay at the top of the petal. it just has to be so that the throwout bearing clears the prongs of the pressure plate so that the throw out bearing is not rotating when the clutch petal is fully released 2 other things to check are the engine mounts to see that they are all good and that the linkage is not worn to badly where the connections are at the z bar and at the top of the rod under the dash. the rod wears away and the holes can get enlarged. common after 50 years of use check the z bar ends for wear also and the bracket on the frame where the z bar mounts for cracks. people forget to grease these things over the years or don't know to grease them ron

07-20-2015, 07:55 PM	#6
padresag Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Sidney,b.c. Posts: 4,425	Re: Need help with clutch adjustment the only difference to that picture is the ball stud on the eng side. the one used on an I6 is not a threaded ball stud but one inserted into a bracket that bolts to the side of the eng. the worn parts can be built up(welded) and shaped back to round. the holes in the zbar can be drilled out and I believe door hinge pin bushings are the right size and you should be able to get them at a local auto parts jobber. there are also new linkage pieces out there with heim ends on them that are the way to go, just that you pay a little more the z bar bracket just below the nbr 12 can crack in and around that opening for the end of the z bar. I ran a 13' clutch in mine for 18 years that took a little pressure to push so am a little familiar with the weaker spots in that system. I was 500 mi from home when that bracket broke away on me so I drove it home without it ron



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