sorting out suspension and steering issues

[AUS64c10]

Since i brought my truck about 3 years ago I've been doing nothing but sorting out little problems and have only driven the truck about a 1000 miles in that time. The dollars spent to the miles driven ratio is well out of whack but I think these are the last of the issues i need to work on.

What i would like to know is there one place i could got that can supply me with all the parts i need to correct the issues. I need new springs, and some drop spindles to maintain the current ride height and a power steering box mounting bracket. They need to be good quality items too as it cost to much to have to buy twice when your shipping parts to Australia.

I'm not sure why this bracket has been attached like this and it makes no sense to me as to why it has been done this way. This on the passengers side of the frame. Should I just take out the spacers and spin it round 180 degrees?



The need for some new springs is urgent. I never could quite work out why it would bottom out so hard on big bumps but then i realized I never really looked at how much suspension travel i had in the front with the wheels still on the ground. The distance is about 3/8"



Last but not least I want to replace the nut spacers on the steering box with a proper mounting plate. There are no cracks in the frame but I would rather fix it now than wait for it to become an issue.



In addition to this I am having a local machine shop create some 1" spacers to lower the front sway bar to clear the pitman arm as it currently interferes when on full lock. So if you do notice the stack of washers that is only a temporary solution to help work out the thickness of the spacers needed.

[Palf70Step]

I have never seen anything like that before. My only guess is they heated the springs to lower it, then came up with that solution to clear the crosslink/tierods and all.
Make it right, is all I can say.
You going back with stock height springs? I like the idea of using lowered spindles and close to stock height springs to keep the ride nice.

[AUS64c10]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I have never seen anything like that before. My only guess is they heated the springs to lower it, then came up with that solution to clear the crosslink/tierods and all.
Make it right, is all I can say.
You going back with stock height springs? I like the idea of using lowered spindles and close to stock height springs to keep the ride nice.

Making it right is my goal, The springs just look to be drop springs as when you lift the front of the truck off the ground the springs stay captive and each coil is evenly spaced. The stance on truck is really nice it's just when you see how it has been executed it does my head in. The springs would have to be a minimum of a 3 or 4 inch drop or just be a super soft spring

I was thinking of going for a 2.5" drop spindle with a 1" drop spring. But I really need to work out how much the truck is lower in the front to start with.

[PGSigns]

Yes that idler arm is on wrong. Your thoughts of spinning it around should work. For the power steering bracket I use the one from Captnfab here on the board. Before you go getting springs and spindles remove the bump stops and see if that improves things. It looks to have drop or cut springs in it. On your sway bar it looks like there are two bushings above a arm with two washers between them. I think there should only be one and the other goes on the lower side of the a arm.
Jimmy

[AUS64c10]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Yes that idler arm is on wrong. Your thoughts of spinning it around should work. For the power steering bracket I use the one from Captnfab here on the board. Before you go getting springs and spindles remove the bump stops and see if that improves things. It looks to have drop or cut springs in it. On your sway bar it looks like there are two bushings above a arm with two washers between them. I think there should only be one and the other goes on the lower side of the a arm.
Jimmy

Not sure i want to remove the bumpstops as i already have the pitman arm hitting the front sway bar on full lock. So taking out the bump stops would only cause more issues

According to the Hotchkis installation guide the sway bar mounts are correct. The two washers are concave to hold each of the rubber bushings properly.

[PGSigns]

Removing the bump stops is done all the time. They are out of both my trucks. Post a picture of you drag link from the front and your steering box and pitman arm to make sure all that is in like it should be. With your other issues it would help sort any other issues you may have. You still may want to trim your sway bar bushings to get you a little extra room.
Jimmy

[60chevyjim]

what about just cutting the rubber bump stop in half height wise ?

[AUS64c10]

Removing or cutting down the bump stops defeats the purpose of what i am trying to achieve with the truck. I wan't it right with out cutting corners.

I've taken some more pictures of the Pitman arm and drag link:











There is no other interferance in the steering set up other than the pitman arm hitting the swaybar and it only hits on full lock when turning to the left.

As you can see in the photos the swaybar is already spaced an inch or so off the chassis but i plan to add another 1" spacer on the swaybar brackets to help give more clearance. Some new springs and drop spindles will help a lot too

This is the current ride height of the truck. the wheels are 18" x 8" in the front with 255 wide, 60 profile tires and the rears are 18 x 9" with 265 wide and 60 profile tires

[lolife99]

You front suspension appears to be a 73-87 crossmember swap.
Be sure to measure your rotor width before you order drop spindles.
There are 2 different widths. 1" or 1.25".
Your springs appear to be a 3" drop spring.
I normally remove the stock rubber bumpstop and replace with a shorter Energy Suspension version.
Its just part of making them ride good. Otherwise raise it back up.
QUALITY drop shocks wil also help.

I would look at the CaptainFab steering box mount also.
Your steering components should also be 73-87,... but the idler arm you have now doesn't look quite right.

[PGSigns]

I does look like the 73 to 87 swap. Most all the steering components are of that vintage. The idler is not correct for that setup. Here is a pic of what they look like. Hard to tell from the picture but it also looks like the steering box may be rotated some and that will lower the pitman arm. That is the reason for the request for pictures of the drag link straight on and steering box pictures. If they rolled the box to get the bolts in you will see it in the angle of the shaft from the steering column and you may see some angle in the drag link with the straight on shot.
Jimmy

[chevy_mike]

If you're going to keep those front springs, you will need to modify or swap your bumpstop. The only other way is to change the springs for less drop and run dropped spindles. Here is the bumpstop I used with a 1" drop spring and 2" drop spindles (3" total drop).

[aggie91]

can you get a better side shot on the right side showing all of the idler arm and where it attaches to the center link? It appears that the idler arm is a Moog K14 which is factory correct for a 1964 C10. It is mounted wrong. The solid spacer goes against the frame and then the swivel joint part on top of that, but spun around 180 degrees from the way it is mounted in the picture.

I agree you have 73-87 upper and lower a-arms and the spindles. Not sure if the complete steering linkage was updated. It is possible to use the stock 1964 idler arm and center link with the later model spindles, if the correct outer tie rods for the spindles are used. I did this 20 years ago on my '65 without ANY issues. Mounting the later model (K6096T) idler arm requires some measurement and locating the center link correctly to attach the mount correctly to the frame. Since the idler arm is just the link between the mount arm and the center link, you will need to locate a mount arm that attaches to the frame since this is not part of the replacement parts for a K6096T idler arm.

As others have stated, it is OK to cut down or replace the bump stops to gains some suspension travel. Going to a stock height spring and adding 3" drop sidles would be good too since that would restore suspension travel to the stock amount but with a lower ride height.

[AUS64c10]

Got some more pics today

[chevy_mike]

Looking at the last pic, your steering box and steering shaft are not in line. The box is rotated down and is likely causing the clearance issue with the pitman arm. It doesn't take much to end up lowering the pitman arm too much. I added some lines to your pic to help show you what I am talking about. Those two line should be inline with each other.

[aggie91]

That is the stock style 64-66 idler arm on the frame, needs to have the mount flipped around like I described above.

Your steering box needs to be rotated up at the input shaft just as chevy_mike stated. That would fix your issue with the pitman arm hitting the sway bar. There are many brackets on the market to mount it properly. I recommend getting one from board member Captain Fab, his is a nice set up.

[BigMike]

The one thing that was already mentioned, is cutting the bump stops in half AND removing one of the bushings and washers out of the sway bar. I have seen a lot of sway bars with only the one bushing before the a-arm and it's fine. Some do it differently but if you want it low that's what you have to do, and no it's not a short cut. When you start lowering trucks from what GM had originally designed them you have to modify them to make them work. And if you've been around these truck for years you know that not all trucks are the same. What works great on one truck may not work the same way on another.

I had the same issue with my 69 until I removed the 2nd bushing and washer, now it clears no problem. I'm on bags so I am much lower.

Just my $.02 for what it's worth

[AUS64c10]

Had a few minutes free today so took off the spacer on the idler arm and spun it around and mounted it directly on the chassis as it should be. Once mounted back in the original spot the pitman arm now clears sway bar.

[AUS64c10]

Cutting the bumpstops down is not a viable option in Australia. I will look at new front springs and drop spindles and a mounting plate for the steering box.

Because i have a universal joint at both ends of the intermediate shaft between the steering column and the steering box the angle of the box isn't a big issue I just want a proper plate to reduce the load on the frame and reduce the risk of the fame cracking.

[60chevyjim]

are the roads that ruff there,
that cutting just the pointed part
of the rubber bump stop off would be a problem ?
leaving the whole square part of the rubber bump stop still there .
that's a nice looking truck and I like the wheels too.

[Boog]

I think what some guys are missing is that by cutting the bump stops it will let the lower control arm go farther upward which also raises the sway bar too thereby contacting the pitman arm even more and possibly hanging the steering up. This can be a dangerous situation.
I think you already have the best plan to fix it.

[AUS64c10]

Finally got round to fitting some of the parts i bought late last year for the truck. I got some 2.5" CPP drop spindles and some Belltech 1" drop springs from Summit Racing. I also replaced all the ball joints and and control arm bushes while i was at it.

I still have new tie rods and other steering components to fit and one of Captinfab's power steering adapter brackets but i pretty happy with the increased suspension travel and it does sit a tad lower in the front now and should drop a little more once the springs settle in.