Anyone tried the LMC "rod end linkage kit"?

[64stpside]

Just about ready to get this thing(64 step side) on the road and have been thinking about this rod end linkage kit from lmc. My wife has to drive this as well so I would like to get the clutch pedal action as soft as possible. From the design I would have to think the effort to depress the clutch pedal would be much less. Anybody have experience with this kit? Could I buy the parts and make my own a lot cheaper?

[64stpside]

Here's the link
http://www.lmctruck.com/features/ex/EXCLK.htm

[Greg63]

I made my own with rod ends I bought locally. I cut and threaded my existing clutch rod so I was only into the whole project for $15.
There clutch isn't any softer but there is no more slop/free play when using the clutch.
Greg.

[Captainfab]

LMC lists those for '67 and up, so you would likely have to modify them to work on your '64. I think that if you have the means to perform the necessary work, you can make your own for less than $100. You can get 3/8" rod ends from Summit for $5.00 each. They are made by QA1.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-msf6

[64stpside]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

LMC lists those for '67 and up, so you would likely have to modify them to work on your '64. I think that if you have the means to perform the necessary work, you can make your own for less than $100. You can get 3/8" rod ends from Summit for $5.00 each. They are made by QA1.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-msf6

DUH!!! Thanks for pointing that out, I totally missed that part about the 67 and up....lol. Would summit have the rest of the parts to make the kit up or would threaded rod and a nut to lock it down work?

[Captainfab]

I do not know if they do or not. Depending on how you want to make it, some all thread or some tube and thread the ID, you will have to get the appropriate rod ends to accomodate. You will need rod ends with either female threads or male threads. If you decide to go with all thread, you should be able to source that locally. I would suggest B7 rod though.

Originally Posted by 64stpside

DUH!!! Thanks for pointing that out, I totally missed that part about the 67 and up....lol. Would summit have the rest of the parts to make the kit up or would threaded rod and a nut to lock it down work?

[oldtrux]

the lmc kit for 63-66 is part # 32-6161,i also noticed that brothers has a kit part# scl6366,i don't know if one is any better than the other.i am interested too.
both are same price

[urmyboyblue]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I do not know if they do or not. Depending on how you want to make it, some all thread or some tube and thread the ID, you will have to get the appropriate rod ends to accomodate. You will need rod ends with either female threads or male threads. If you decide to go with all thread, you should be able to source that locally. I would suggest B7 rod though.

I tried all thread for the rod between the clutch fork and the pivot when I was putting my first truck together. It did not work out- that sucker bowed permanently the first time I tried the clutch. I had a friend make me a rod out of drill rod. That worked great!

If the rod is under compression, don't use all thread.

[64stpside]

Originally Posted by Greg63

There clutch isn't any softer but there is no more slop/free play when using the clutch.Greg.

That's interesting.I figured that getting rid of the metal to metal pivot points would surely decrease the pedal effort especially with the ball being able to swivel.

[Greg63]

Originally Posted by 64stpside

That's interesting.I figured that getting rid of the metal to metal pivot points would surely decrease the pedal effort especially with the ball being able to swivel.

I have a Centerforce clutch in my truck which has a lot of pressure - if the rod end conversion made any difference I cannot feel it.
Greg.

[ryanv70c10]

I made my own for my 64 Nova about 20 years ago using 1/2 rod ends. The metal was so hard that I had to use a torch to anneal it so that a could thread it. As already mentioned, I didn't notice any less effort to depress the clutch.

[Old Bleu]

Sharps40 installed one of these on his 1965 C10. Here is the link: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=604166&page=3 it starts at message 59. He has sold his truck and is no longer on this board, but might be some good info there. As I recall, he had some slight clearance issues at the frame, but it did work.

[cortcomp]

I was about to bring up the B7 but captain got it. Grainger carries it. You'll need fine thread and B7 usually is.

[pheengurs]

in the middle of my 383 stroker swap on my 64 K10, I noticed all my clutch linkage parts were worn completely unsafely out...

so I decided to try the LMC rod end clutch linkage kit upgrade
part# 32-6161 (as previously mentioned! thanks! as it helps searching quite a bit!)

I'm not a very good instructions without pictures kind of guy, and what came with the kit was not informative to my addled brain... so I just put the stuff that came in the kit together and came up with what you'll see in the pics.

[I had some other issues with my new old block, and it lacking a hole drilled in the block for proper ball mounting so I fabbed my own rather than tapping block]

here's some pics of it installed, as mentioned, on a 1964 Chev K10, sbc 350 (383 stroker), with sm420 4spd trans, manual linkage:

[pheengurs]

I notice I need a longer bolt and a washer on the pedal linkage there, so it doesn't contact the locking nuts! yikes!

I'll get a pic of the zbar to clutch fork rod up there too..

I've managed to adjust it so when my sm420 stick is in N, and engine on, I feel no play in the pedal linkage at all... which is a huge improvement.

I've gotta do a search on how to properly adjust lower zbar to clutch fork linkage for proper throwout bearing setting...

My worry is I've cobbled it together by eyeballing the lengths of the stock rods I had already installed, but how I get the various parts to stay in their adjusted position, and not rattle themselves free...

there's only so many lock nuts in the kit (which are reverse thread? possibly metric? = impossible to find?) and the kit came with an extra heim and rod... perhaps I'll post a pic of the instruction sheet for y'alls expert help!

[Captainfab]

Where I see you are using two jamb nuts, you should only need one. With the rod end threaded into the tube, just locking one nut against the tube should prevent the rod end from moving. If you are still concerned about it, once you get your lengths adjusted to where you want them. Dis assemble them and add a little blue loctite to the rod ends where they screw into the tubes and lock them with the jamb nuts also.

[rvrfoot]

I used the one from brothers trucks.

[pheengurs]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Where I see you are using two jamb nuts, you should only need one. With the rod end threaded into the tube, just locking one nut against the tube should prevent the rod end from moving. If you are still concerned about it, once you get your lengths adjusted to where you want them. Dis assemble them and add a little blue loctite to the rod ends where they screw into the tubes and lock them with the jamb nuts also.

Thanks Captain! I will do that!

[padresag]

I doubt that it will make the push any easier but it could be a little smoother and take up the slack in the linkage. usually the pedal pressure comes from what pressure plate that you are using.
ron

[66 C10 383]

A company called SpeedDirect makes the clutch rods with the heim rod ends. One is for a short upper rod and the other is for a long upper rod.

https://cmc.speeddirect.com/itemdesc...%2D125&eq=&Tp=

https://cmc.speeddirect.com/itemdesc...%2D125&eq=&Tp=