Homemade column shift linkage?

[dmartin1]

Has anyone here made homemade column shift linkage similar to the lokar?

I have longtubes, and the whole factory frame bracket setup is dead in the way. The headers tuck in the frame right at the bracket.

I know the lokar is only 70$ but my play money went to headers and a pile of small crap.
And i have welders plenty of metal and tools and some skills. Just seeing if anyone has made any?

Thanks in advance


BTW- the flowtech longtube headers clear everything fine and tuck mostly into the frame rails, incase you are lowered and want longtubes. I researched this forever

Ceramic coated part# is 31100flt

[dmartin1]

The rod with heim joints and jam nuts etc is easy.only fab will be in the trans shift arm.

[ashoe]

I bought the linkage setup from LMC and thought when it arrived it would have been an easy DIY piece. If you need any pics or measurements I can take a few. The arm that bolts to the trans would be easy to duplicate but would have do it in the correct clocked position like at 8 o'clock when in park because making it adjustable would be tough. Theirs is fancy, one knurled shaft with the oval to fit on the trans and then the arm slips over that in whatever position and then is tightened to clamp to it.

[snipescastle2]

I made one of these for my build. I am running a 700R4 and the factory one I could never find the bushings to fit it, so I gathered up some parts and made my own....
I had most of these pieces laying around my work, so I didn't have to spend much, but I did have to buy a 1/2"-20 NF thread left hand tap, that was about $25.00 I already had a 1/2"-20 Right hand tap, and of course, two spherical bearings (rod end bearings) one right hand and one left hand. most come with jamb nuts already, if not, you may have to order them. I know speedway motors has them, and you can buy the tubing already threaded, just give them the dimensions you need. basically, this makes a "Turnbuckle" so adjusting this rod is a snap.....I have access to a lather, so I made some small bushings to center the bolts that attach the rod ends to the linkage. I'll post some pictures later after I get home. as I stated earlier, the biggest problem I have to date, is setting the neutral/back up switch, just haven't had the time to fool with it yet.
Ben

[dmartin1]

snipe, what did you do for the trans shift arm?

[snipescastle2]

I used the factory bell crank on the frame and the arm that attaches to the transmission stud. Basically,everything but the rod and clevis' from the factory.
Ben

[Bagd72Chevy]

You can use a shift arm off a later model truck to key onto the shaft. I cut mine and welded it back 90° CW. Those later arms are for shift cables that pull front/back and we want to go more up/down. You could probably modify the stock one also. Then I welded a tube on the end of factory shift rod and tapped it. screwed in a 3/8" heim joint and bolted it up to the shift arm. works great. It would be better with a heim at the column also but I only had one at the time.

[mike16]

I put a late modle tilt wheel in a 58 GMC 4x4 with a turbo 400. used lokar goods and tweeked a few rods but it worked out very well.

[snipescastle2]

here's a few pictures of the linkage I built for my shifter setup:

Ben