1960-1966 Chevy C10

[BrandonGerringer]

I'm new to this whole forum thing so bare with me here. I'd really like to use this as a way to keep track of my progress on my new build and to get feedback from anyone who's interested. Anyways, I just purchased what I was told was a 61' Chevy C10 Smoothside/Fleetside. After a while of looking at the only two pictures of the truck that I have at the moment, I've come to the conclusion that it's a 64-66 because of the hood, headlight bezels, and the fact that it is not a wrap around window. I purchased the truck from a family friend who lives in Modena, Utah, and the plan is for my Uncle (who lives about an hour and a half away in St. George) to pick it up tomorrow morning and store it at his house until I can come and pick it up (I live in Huntington Beach, CA). I have two pictures of the truck that I would like to post as well, but I'm using my iPhone and as soon as I figure out how to do it, I will.

[62stepside longbox]

To post pictures just reply to this thread then scroll down and you'll see a button that says "manage attachments", click on it and then another tab will pop up and you'll see a couple buttons that say "choose file" click on one of them and them chose the photo you want and then click the button to the right that says "upload"

[BrandonGerringer]

I'm doing this from my IPhone and not a desktop which makes things a bit more tricky, thanks for the help, I appreciate it. Let's see if that works

[BrandonGerringer]

I don't think the second pic went through the first time so here it is.

[La Zona Imagery]

looks to be a 64-66 from what I see.

[Clyde65]

definitely a 64-66! congrats and welcome!

[aerotruk63]

Get us the VIN number and well break it down for you.

Also get the numbers off the GVW plate including the trim and paint codes.

Lots and lots of pictures to tell you what's right and whats wrong.

[Mathew21]

Welcome, What are your plans for the truck?

[62stepside longbox]

Looks like it's in pretty nice shape, I'm subscribed . Plans?

[BrandonGerringer]

So my Uncle picked up the truck this morning, got a few pictures and expecting some more later on today or tomorrow hopefully. As for a VIN number, my uncle said that the only two numbers he could find were "RPOZ622A" and "RPO503AA". The truck has a swapped Chevy Small Block 400 in it that I believe came stock in 70's Nova's/Chevelle's. It looks to me like it has an aftermarket exhaust manifold on it, as well as chrome valve covers, a chrome Edelbrock air cleaner. The tranny is a 3 speed converted from column to floor with a B&M shifter I believe. As far as suspension goes, it has coils in the back, A-Arms with coils up front (I think). It also looks like some of the stock hoses have been replaced with steel-braided hoses. I'll do my best to find out as much information as I can throughout the next few days.

[BrandonGerringer]

Here are a few pictures of the interior, it looks to be in pretty rough shape, but nothing a little, or a lot of hard work can't take care of. My overall plans for this truck are to do a custom resto-mod. I'd like to eventually completely pull the body and go all the way down to the frame, but that won't be for a while. Since I'm still in high school and the funds really aren't readily available, I'm going to do my best to slowly but surely (with each paycheck or so) add a little here and a little there as well as getting rid of all the rust. I'd like to slighty build the motor, Tuned headers, either a single four-barrel carb, or maybe three deuces (depending on cost), bigger radiator, aftermarket fan, redo all the hoses with steel-braided ones, dual batteries, exhaust cutouts with glass packs for when they're closed, fully redone bed with tubs for larger back tires, etc. For the interior I'm debating on keeping the bench or switching to buckets, so that'll be a discussion for later on, Dakota Digital Electronic dash gauges and bezel, custom shifter, new stereo and speakers, etc. I would also like to go full air-ride too, which means C-Sectioning the frame will hopefully be in the near future. Also, the keys that are in the ignition do not look like stock keys, does anybody know if they're stock or if they're different?

[65chevysub]

Originally Posted by BrandonGerringer

So my Uncle picked up the truck this morning, got a few pictures and expecting some more later on today or tomorrow hopefully. As for a VIN number, my uncle said that the only two numbers he could find were "RPOZ622A" and "RPO503AA". The truck has a swapped Chevy Small Block 400 in it that I believe came stock in 70's Nova's/Chevelle's. It looks to me like it has an aftermarket exhaust manifold on it, as well as chrome valve covers, a chrome Edelbrock air cleaner. The tranny is a 3 speed converted from column to floor with a B&M shifter I believe. As far as suspension goes, it has coils in the back, A-Arms with coils up front (I think). It also looks like some of the stock hoses have been replaced with steel-braided hoses. I'll do my best to find out as much information as I can throughout the next few days.

Your VIN is inside the drivers door on the top of the door frame. Shoot it out here and someone will break it down for you. Welcome to the club.

[vetnat]

Yeah, those keys look odd. But hey, at least yours has keys. After dragging mine out of a field with a tractor, and trailering it home to my driveway, I had to have a mobile locksmith come out and make me an ignition key! I originally took the door lock cylinder in to the locksmith and had a door key made, but sadly it didn't work in the ignition. I have heard that some fleet trucks had identical door and ignition keys. Congrats on your new truck! Enjoy the journey.

[RANDY COX]

Congrats on your new/old truck.. I haven't seen rust that bad on the inside of the door...I thought mine were rusty...

[jtrichard]

Hi and welcome .....exhaust manifold is OEM key switch is NOT .....original one was right of steering column

[BrandonGerringer]

The VIN # is 4C154H128596, if somebody could break that down for me that would be greatly appreciated. My guess would be the previous owner was left handed, which would explain the reasoning as to why the ignition switch was switched to the left side of the column, so that will eventually get changed back and possibly to a push button as well. The rust on the door driver door is worse than the passenger door, but yeah it looks terrible. Depending on the extent of the rust throughout each door, I may try to find some decent replacements out of a junkyard, if not I'll buy the patch panels and weld them in. I'd like to find a good set of headers pretty soon, but many of the ones I am interested in, aren't available in California because they are considered illegal (Ridiculous if you ask me). I'm keeping the truck registered in Utah so I don't have to deal with any of the California BS , plus it's way cheaper on insurance and registration. Anyways, my Uncle told me he's spent the majority of today cleaning and polishing all the chrome, so at least it will be shiny!

[Chknlyps2]

Originally Posted by BrandonGerringer

The VIN # is 4C154H128596, if somebody could break that down for me that would be greatly appreciated. My guess would be the previous owner was left handed, which would explain the reasoning as to why the ignition switch was switched to the left side of the column, so that will eventually get changed back and possibly to a push button as well. The rust on the door driver door is worse than the passenger door, but yeah it looks terrible. Depending on the extent of the rust throughout each door, I may try to find some decent replacements out of a junkyard, if not I'll buy the patch panels and weld them in. I'd like to find a good set of headers pretty soon, but many of the ones I am interested in, aren't available in California because they are considered illegal (Ridiculous if you ask me). I'm keeping the truck registered in Utah so I don't have to deal with any of the California BS , plus it's way cheaper on insurance and registration. Anyways, my Uncle told me he's spent the majority of today cleaning and polishing all the chrome, so at least it will be shiny!

The grill is nice looking on your truck, I bet it shines up nice! The master cylinder has been changed to a newer dual circuit already so that is a plus.

As far gone as the door in the pic is I would replace it, the good thing is here in So Cal you can find them in pretty good shape for $75 to $100, there are a couple not far from you on CL. Here in CA there is no inspection prior to registration for smog equipment on 75 and older vehicles. All you need to do is find an independent place to verify the VIN or even have it done at Auto Club (AAA), all they care about is that the VIN on the truck matches the out of state title and then you need to get it weighed for the weight fees.

The rams horn exhaust manifolds you have flow pretty well, from what I have read as good or better than headers up to 5,000 RPM.

On your VIN

4= 1964
C= 2 wheel drive
15= 1/2 ton long bed 127" wheel base
4= pickup
H= Oakland CA plant
128596 is where your truck was in the order of the years assembly, I think they started at 100,000 so yours was the 28,596th made in 64.

The quickest place for me to look it up was an LMC catalog and they only show H for Oakland in the GMC section, someone will come along and correct me if I am wrong.

[BrandonGerringer]

Originally Posted by Chknlyps2

The grill is nice looking on your truck, I bet it shines up nice! The master cylinder has been changed to a newer dual circuit already so that is a plus.

As far gone as the door in the pic is I would replace it, the good thing is here in So Cal you can find them in pretty good shape for $75 to $100, there are a couple not far from you on CL. Here in CA there is no inspection prior to registration for smog equipment on 75 and older vehicles. All you need to do is find an independent place to verify the VIN or even have it done at Auto Club (AAA), all they care about is that the VIN on the truck matches the out of state title and then you need to get it weighed for the weight fees.

The rams horn exhaust manifolds you have flow pretty well, from what I have read as good or better than headers up to 5,000 RPM.

On your VIN

4= 1964
C= 2 wheel drive
15= 1/2 ton long bed 127" wheel base
4= pickup
H= Oakland CA plant
128596 is where your truck was in the order of the years assembly, I think they started at 100,000 so yours was the 28,596th made in 64.

The quickest place for me to look it up was an LMC catalog and they only show H for Oakland in the GMC section, someone will come along and correct me if I am wrong.

I appreciate the quick response, I'm gonna try to get on here as much as I can to ask questions and respond but due to my work schedule sometimes it's a tad difficult. Thank you for breaking the VIN down for me, that was very helpful. The reason why I'm leaving it registered in Utah is because it is all around cheaper, registration is 10 dollars a year for anything older than 30 years, insurance for me (since I'm 16) in Utah is only $80 a month roughly compared to well over $100 down here. Also, a classic car in Utah is only required to be inspected once, so once it passes the first time, it's good (correct me if I'm wrong about that, but I believe that's true) California has noise laws and at least if I get pulled over down here I'll have an excuse as to why it's too loud. Plus, we have property in Utah and I spend a decent amount of time at my uncles, so it is completely legal.
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[BrandonGerringer]

Originally Posted by Chknlyps2

The grill is nice looking on your truck, I bet it shines up nice! The master cylinder has been changed to a newer dual circuit already so that is a plus.

As far gone as the door in the pic is I would replace it, the good thing is here in So Cal you can find them in pretty good shape for $75 to $100, there are a couple not far from you on CL. Here in CA there is no inspection prior to registration for smog equipment on 75 and older vehicles. All you need to do is find an independent place to verify the VIN or even have it done at Auto Club (AAA), all they care about is that the VIN on the truck matches the out of state title and then you need to get it weighed for the weight fees.

The rams horn exhaust manifolds you have flow pretty well, from what I have read as good or better than headers up to 5,000 RPM.

On your VIN

4= 1964
C= 2 wheel drive
15= 1/2 ton long bed 127" wheel base
4= pickup
H= Oakland CA plant
128596 is where your truck was in the order of the years assembly, I think they started at 100,000 so yours was the 28,596th made in 64.

The quickest place for me to look it up was an LMC catalog and they only show H for Oakland in the GMC section, someone will come along and correct me if I am wrong.

I more than likely will go ahead and replace the doors judging by how they look in the few pictures I've gotten. I'll see about getting some better detailed pictures tomorrow of the interior. I'll have to start looking around on Craigslist as well. Also, do you know if there are any junkyards with possible Chevy parts in my area? I've looked but haven't been able to find any leads.

[Chknlyps2]

Originally Posted by BrandonGerringer

I more than likely will go ahead and replace the doors judging by how they look in the few pictures I've gotten. I'll see about getting some better detailed pictures tomorrow of the interior. I'll have to start looking around on Craigslist as well. Also, do you know if there are any junkyards with possible Chevy parts in my area? I've looked but haven't been able to find any leads.

Not sure on junk yards in your area but there are guys in Fontana, San Diego and Victorville that part out and always have adds on CL for 60 to 66 parts. The guy in Victorville does mostly 67-72 parts but when I talked to him about some things for a 72 I have, he told me about a truck he is getting back in shape and ended up picking up 8 or 10 60-66 parts trucks.

I got a cab from a body shop in San Marcos a while back and the guy there told me about an area in south San Diego that is all junk yards, he described it as a long street with yards on each side. He said when they have older cars and trucks to repair they go to the yard all the way at the end of the street and on the right, that they have more older stuff. I have never been there but with some googling you might be able to make some calls.

The parts section here has some great deals but if you want to post a want to buy add you need to be a supporting member.

[BrandonGerringer]

I'm not sure if it's even possible, but is their any way to find out the history of a motor? I'm not really sure how many miles are on it or what exactly it came out of and when and what not, but it'd be nice to know those sorts of things if possible.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jtrichard]

If you have a California drivers license and the truck is registered to YOU in UTAH and you get stopped in Calif you will get cited for NOT having the truck registered in Calif

[BrandonGerringer]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

If you have a California drivers license and the truck is registered to YOU in UTAH and you get stopped in Calif you will get cited for NOT having the truck registered in Calif

The Truck will have my name, as well as my grandfather listed as the other owner (who has a Utah drivers license), since I'm sure he will be occasionally driving it.

[jtrichard]

IF the truck is not in the state for more then 20 days (I think) IF you get my drift,, you should be ok

[BrandonGerringer]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

IF the truck is not in the state for more then 30 days (I think) IF you get my drift,, you should be ok

I guess that just means I'll have to go ahead and make a monthly trip up to Utah for parts lol. There's just too many fees and taxes and and pointless charges in Cali when you go to license and register vehicles(among other things). They're even talking about adding a "gas tax" so you get taxed on the amount of miles you drive! It's crazy!