Leaky brake issue.

[Isaiah92260]

So I did a 67 dual master cylinder conversion on my 63 a few months ago. Split the lines in the front with new lines and fitting, I went as far as using one small wrap of plumbers tape on the threads and even used thread seal cuz I was having leaks still I guess cuz of my flaring work.
Anyways never had a leak problem with those..... Lately I noticed my brakes getting low. So today I finally got a chance to check all my fluids and noticed my front Brake resivours was low! Now I didn't replace the front soft lines, I know I will have to soon, but I saw no leaks. Now I did see a little dirty was and one small leaks trail on the drivers side on the front wheel under the hub cap, when I did my lines I noticed when the week was off is was black and some what most around the brake cylinder, I'm sure that maybe the problem? But I did my brakes in March, it's been a while since the finally went down. In this picture you can see when're do just added new fluid, and the front resivours for the rear brakes are dirty, I new that's because I didn't replace the rear line.

[R_W]

Did you replace wheel cylinders? I assume still drums in the front? If your lines are not leaking, either you are leaking at the M/C or your wheel cylinder is leaking. They are about $9 at most parts stores, if you do one side do both...

But check all line junctions one more time first...

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by R_W

Did you replace wheel cylinders? I assume still drums in the front? If your lines are not leaking, either you are leaking at the M/C or your wheel cylinder is leaking. They are about $9 at most parts stores, if you do one side do both...

But check all line junctions one more time first...

I knew I should of at the time of the conversion but ran out of funds and time, I'm gonna buy the two from wheel cylinders and 2 new soft lines next pay day.... I looked all around the MC and inside the can and didn't see any leaks. Yes I very will check again for leaks

[R_W]

Worth it to replace the wheel cylinders. I re-did my back brakes about 3 years ago, didn't replace the wheel cylinders. Blew one out a week later. Re-did the rest of my brakes in the last couple months, blew the other rear wheel cylinder out then...

[jayoldschool]

Check the wheel cylinders (peel the cups back, too.), recheck all connections. Replace all three hoses.

GET THE SEALER OFF THE THREADS. Yes, that's caps. They are double flares for a reason, no sealer. If the flares aren't good, redo them, or buy pre-flared lines.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

Check the wheel cylinders (peel the cups back, too.), recheck all connections. Replace all three hoses.

GET THE SEALER OFF THE THREADS. Yes, that's caps. They are double flares for a reason, no sealer. If the flares aren't good, redo them, or buy pre-flared lines.

I have a double flare kit from auztizone from OEM but the adapter that it comes with kept getting stuck inside the hose, so I had to pry it off with a screw driver or something, I couldn't get my flares to come out right because of that..... Do you know of a better double flare kit that does do this? And where can I get it?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by R_W

Worth it to replace the wheel cylinders. I re-did my back brakes about 3 years ago, didn't replace the wheel cylinders. Blew one out a week later. Re-did the rest of my brakes in the last couple months, blew the other rear wheel cylinder out then...

I'm gonna take care of it soon, thank you.... Since you've done then befor, is there a procedure to do them? Anything I need to watch out for or make sure of when I replace them?

[jayoldschool]

Google "hydraulic flaring tool", this is what I use.



However, you can go to any parts store and get the lines you need, pre-flared, with fittings. Get the Ni-Copp ones, easy to bend. Speaking of that, if you are going to stick to flaring your own lines, buy a roll of Ni-Copp line, it flares so easily!

[R_W]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

I'm gonna take care of it soon, thank you.... Since you've done then befor, is there a procedure to do them? Anything I need to watch out for or make sure of when I replace them?

Take lots of photos before you start, helps to get everything back in the same spot. There are two screws that hold the cylinder in place, soak those with PB Blaster.

The pic is a rear set, so it has extra e-brake parts shown. If you don't plan to replace all the springs, if you remove the hi-lited parts (two springs and connector rod) you should be able to spread the shoes out enough to get the wheel cylinder out.

That said I recommend if you have it open replace all you can. Spring kits are cheap, shoes are not too expensive, etc.

The adjuster - knurled ring at bottom of shoes - sometimes is frozen up. I break it free, clean good, and usually put a little anti-seize on the threads.